A true adventure crag, Craig Llong has a collection of serious climbs on flaky, very sharp rock that is either frighteningly steep, frighteningly loose, or both. The best routes are in the E4-E7 range, all of which feature wild moves in impressive positions. The cliff has an intimidating atmosphere and all the routes require a certain amount of "pysching up", helmets recommended.
From Trefin village centre drive 800m east on the road to Abercastle to parking spots. Follow path around fields to join coast path. Turn right. Craig Llong is the impressive cliff set into the north side of the bay.
Follow a vague path from a small dip in the coast path 50m before the crag is reached and downwards to the routes.
Avoid the routes on the lower section (left of Corkscrew) if seals are present during July to December (visual check needed) because of pupping.
|1||Walk On By||E4 5c|
|2||Wait on the corner||E5 6b *|
|3||Strangers||E6 6b **||1|
|4||Impetus Now||E7 6b **||1|
|5||Chimney Route||HS 4a *||4|
|6||Classic Walks||VS 4a||4|
|7||Can You Walk Like You Talk||E4 6a **||2|
|8||Go Take a Running Jump||E6 6b *|
|9||Extreme Walks||E4 6a *|
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|Stake at the top of Impetus Now area is totally gubbed - i pushed it flat to the ground by hand but was unable to remove it. There isn't a great deal else gear wise at the top here.|
alan_davies - 13/Apr/12