Craig Caetan (Craig Coetan)

Climbs 35 – Rocktype Gabbro – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
Climbs mostly in the VDiff - VS range; there is an E5 6b (Sharksville) but it is out of character for the crag.

Access notes
Bird ban Feb 1 - July 31 on lower tier and L half of upper tier.

Abseil (beware old peg) or climb down 4-5m L of the gully (Diff) and move L along line of ledges to join quartz ledge system.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 1 - North Pembroke (2013),
Out of print: Pembroke (part one) (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LOWER TIER  
2SharksvilleE5 6b ** 
3CragmonstersE2 5b  
4Act of GodVS 4c **48
5IntegrityS 4a 2
6Wall ClimbVD 9
7L.B.J.VS 4c *25
8Stroll OnVD 6
 UPPER TIER  
10Seaview GrooveD 1
11Green ManVD 9
12CorridorD 6
13LibraS 16
14Zig-ZagD 28
15surprise slabsS 11
16Central RouteS 4a 24
17SilmarilS 4a *35
18Silmaril DirectVS 4c *12
19Fuzzy PegS 4a *68
20Dinner DateE1 5b  
21Coetan CrackVS 4c 12
22Flake-fakeHS 4b 20
23Hors D'OeuvreHVS 5b 1
24Subsidiary CrackD 2
25Coettan GullyVD 3
26Straight-upVS 4c 1
 SOUTH BUTTRESS  
28OstentatiousE1 5b  
29yankeedoddleS 4a 2
30Coetan ButtressVD 4
31The NoseS 3
32Diamond ButtressS 4a 8
 PENMAEN COETAN  
34Pass OnD 3
35Pass ItHS 4b 1
36Take InVS 5a  
37Fly PastS 3
38Silmaril Super DirectHVS 5a  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ERU

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Just had an afternoon visit on a blazing hot day. Only did a couple of simple routes but was genuinely impressed with the crag, the views, the climbing and most of all the rock! Simply superb in terms of gear, friction and climbing. Reminded me of the easier routes at Bosigran and that is not faint praise. Really looking forward to a future visit and there is definitely potential for new lines.
Zoomer - 11/Sep/14
Working on adding the missing climbs and general tidy up of this crag page - should also have a photo or two of the area to help locate lines in the next week or two
Matt88 - 27/Jul/13
I've un-moderated myself. I haven't logged in in ages.
pishmishy - 19/Jul/13
Great to see such exemplary crag moderation!
The Pylon King - 17/Jul/13
This crag is actually Quartz Gabbro ( a bit like granite)not sandstone. Some great routes inc. Fuzzy Peg (severe, Act of God and LBJ (V.S.) and Sharksville (E5).
Steve Quinton - 20/Oct/05