Climbs 37
Rocktype Gabbro

Faces NW

Fun down on St Davids head © pickford_rich

Crag features

Climbs mostly in the VDiff - VS range; there is an E5 6b (Sharksville) but it is out of character for the crag.

Approach notes

Bird ban Feb 1 - July 31 on lower tier and L half of upper tier.

Abseil (beware old peg) or climb down 4-5m L of the gully (Diff) and move L along line of ledges to join quartz ledge system.

Just had an afternoon visit on a blazing hot day. Only did a couple of simple routes but was genuinely impressed with the crag, the views, the climbing and most of all the rock! Simply superb in terms of gear, friction and climbing. Reminded me of the easier routes at Bosigran and that is not faint praise. Really looking forward to a future visit and there is definitely potential for new lines.
Zoomer - 11/Sep/14
Working on adding the missing climbs and general tidy up of this crag page - should also have a photo or two of the area to help locate lines in the next week or two
Matt88 - 27/Jul/13
I've un-moderated myself. I haven't logged in in ages.
pishmishy - 19/Jul/13
Great to see such exemplary crag moderation!
Urgles - 17/Jul/13
This crag is actually Quartz Gabbro ( a bit like granite)not sandstone. Some great routes inc. Fuzzy Peg (severe, Act of God and LBJ (V.S.) and Sharksville (E5).
Steve Quinton - 20/Oct/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Lower Tier 
E5 6b ** 
E2 5b  
4Act of GodVS 4c **60
5IntegrityS 4a 2
6Wall ClimbVD 12
VS 4c *32
8Stroll On
VD 7
 Upper Tier 
10Seaview Groove
D 2
11Green Man
VD 11
D 9
S 18
D 32
15surprise slabsS 12
16Central RouteS 4a 26
S 4a *38
18Silmaril DirectVS 4c *20
19Fuzzy PegS 4a *78
20Dinner Date
E1 5b 1
21Coetan Crack
VS 4c 13
HS 4b 20
23Hors D'Oeuvre
HVS 5b 1
24Subsidiary Crack
D 2
25Coettan Gully
VD 4
26Straight-upVS 4c 1
 South Buttress 
E1 5b 1
S 4a 3
30Coetan Buttress
VD 4
31The Nose
S 4
32Diamond Buttress
S 4a 8
 Penmaen Coetan 
34Pass On
D 3
35Pass It
HS 4b 2
36Take In
VS 5a  
37Fly PastS 5
38Silmaril Super DirectHVS 5a  
40Summer Holiday
E1 5b *1
41For All Intents and Porpoises *S 4b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ERU