Climbs mostly in the VDiff - VS range; there is an E5 6b (Sharksville) but it is out of character for the crag.
Bird ban Feb 1 - July 31 on lower tier and L half of upper tier.
Abseil (beware old peg) or climb down 4-5m L of the gully (Diff) and move L along line of ledges to join quartz ledge system.
|2||Sharksville||E5 6b **|
|4||Act of God||VS 4c **||50|
|7||L.B.J.||VS 4c *||25|
|16||Central Route||S 4a||24|
|17||Silmaril||S 4a *||35|
|18||Silmaril Direct||VS 4c *||13|
|19||Fuzzy Peg||S 4a *||70|
|20||Dinner Date||E1 5b|
|21||Coetan Crack||VS 4c||13|
|23||Hors D'Oeuvre||HVS 5b||1|
|32||Diamond Buttress||S 4a||8|
|35||Pass It||HS 4b||1|
|36||Take In||VS 5a|
|38||Silmaril Super Direct||HVS 5a|
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|Just had an afternoon visit on a blazing hot day. Only did a couple of simple routes but was genuinely impressed with the crag, the views, the climbing and most of all the rock! Simply superb in terms of gear, friction and climbing. Reminded me of the easier routes at Bosigran and that is not faint praise. Really looking forward to a future visit and there is definitely potential for new lines.|
Zoomer - 11/Sep/14
|Working on adding the missing climbs and general tidy up of this crag page - should also have a photo or two of the area to help locate lines in the next week or two|
Matt88 - 27/Jul/13
|I've un-moderated myself. I haven't logged in in ages.|
pishmishy - 19/Jul/13
|Great to see such exemplary crag moderation!|
Pylon King Against Capit@lism - 17/Jul/13
|This crag is actually Quartz Gabbro ( a bit like granite)not sandstone. Some great routes inc. Fuzzy Peg (severe, Act of God and LBJ (V.S.) and Sharksville (E5).
Steve Quinton - 20/Oct/05