A fine crag, if hard to reach. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 170ft with the best routes on perfect rock. Highly recommended: Hand Job (E1 5b), Shadow Walker (E3 5c) and Cat Burglar (E4 5c).
Abseil access: nut placements required (good ones available).
>From Mouth Mill (as for Blackchurch) walk along the coast path. Or drive to Fatacott Farm (SS 268 269) and ask the farmer's permission to park - don't assume it. (Tractors are big things.) Take a track over a field and over two stile to join the coastal path near a trig point, go E for 0.5mi (four more stiles).
New Details, see http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/NorthDevonCornwall.shtml#exmansworthy
|1||Smooth Operator||E4 6a *|
|2||Tactical Retreat||VS 4c||1|
|3||Tactical Advance||HVS 5a|
|4||Culm Dancing||E3 5c **||2|
|5||Shadow Walker||E3 6a ***||5|
|6||Sheepdog Trails in Babylon||E2 5c||3|
|8||Nasty Little Bags of Poison||HVS 5b|
|9||Haunted by Hoodoos||E6 6b|
|10||Rasta Collie||E2 5c *|
|11||Dog Burglar||E4 6a|
|12||Cat Burglar||E4 6a **||6|
|13||The Outlaw||E4 6a||1|
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|Details of the new approach etc can be found at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/NorthDevonCornwall.shtml#exmansworthy Dave Henderson's website.|
Mark Kemball - 13/Jan/06