Climbs 35 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
An area featuring the "delights" of XS routes (up to 300ft) featuring some splendid crumbly rubbish and imaginary protection. But also features the fantastic and more normal pleasures of slab climbs such as Sacre Coeur (E2 5b) and Jamaican Dub (E3 5c) - which make it well worth turning up.

Access notes
Tidal on some parts.

The main cliff is on the privately-owned Clovelly Estate.

Approach feasible from Clovelly and then walk along the coastal footpath. Alternatively, park at Brownsham Farm (SS 286 259) and walk (1mi) through woods to the old limekilns at Mouth Mill, by the crag.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), Javu website new routes,
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2The ShrineXS 5c *
3Rude NudeE3 5c **
4The AlmightyE1 5a *
5PilgrimXS 5b
6The Big SheepE3 5c *
7Savage GodE4 5c **
8Savage God DirectE4 6a
9BlunderbussE3 5b *
10The HeathenXS 5b
11AntichristE3 5b
12SummerhouseE3 5b
13The VergerE1 5a **
14Machineries of JoyE2 5c
15Crucial BunnyE2 5a
16PrayermatE1 4c
17Loose WomanE1 5b **
18BarabbasE1 5a
19StopfordE1 4c
20The SextonE3 5c **
21The ArchtemperE3 5b **
22Lord BaftaE5 5c/6a **
23GodspellE4 6a **
24The Naked GodE6 6a **
25Making Plans for NigelXS 5b
26The Ghost of Belle AireE6 6b/c **
27Eraser BladeE1 5a
29MoluscicideE2 5b
30Noir et BlancHVS 5a
31Rite of SpringVS 4c *
32Les InvalidesE2 5c
33Sacre CoeurE2 5b ***
34Dance on a VolcanoE3 5c *
35Jamaican DubE3 6a **
36RantE3 6a *
37Notre DameVS 4b *
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A short video of a grand day out on the amazing sea stack formation of Blackchurch Rock on the Culm Coast near Hartland in North Devon. There are a number of most excellent routes (including 2 nice VS's at either end) on this fantastic foreshore pinnacle, complete with two walk-through tunnels, but the jewel in the crown is the superlative and most photogenic E2 5b/c "Sacre Coeur" first climbed by the legend Pat Littlejohn in 1974. The route is rightly described by UKC and Rockfax as "a majestic pitch of flawless quality" and a super-classic in the South West of the UK: All constructive feedback or comments welcome and hopefully it may inspire a few folks with sacred hearts and strong calves to climb on Blackchurch Rock and visit this beautiful part of the UK!
BALD EAGLE - 12/Jun/14
Left side of main cliff, Savage God etc, all looked absolutely horrendous, green and yellow slime and lichen, vegetated...cap off to Mr Littlejohn...I can't imagine anybody seeing those routes and wanting to do them...I wonder how many ascents they have had?
HappyTrundler - 24/Jul/11
The Main Cliff looked well grim!
The Pylon King - 30/Aug/07
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 05/Oct/2012

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