View larger mapGrid Ref SS 299266 (OS Landranger #180,190)

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These details were last updated on 05/Oct/2012

Blackchurch

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 35 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
An area featuring the "delights" of XS routes (up to 300ft) featuring some splendid crumbly rubbish and imaginary protection. But also features the fantastic and more normal pleasures of slab climbs such as Sacre Coeur (E2 5b) and Jamaican Dub (E3 5c) - which make it well worth turning up.

Access notes
Tidal on some parts.

The main cliff is on the privately-owned Clovelly Estate.

Approach feasible from Clovelly and then walk along the coastal footpath. Alternatively, park at Brownsham Farm (SS 286 259) and walk (1mi) through woods to the old limekilns at Mouth Mill, by the crag.

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 

2.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
17 °C
11 kph

0.1mm rain
Sunny periods
19 °C
10 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
12 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
18 °C
13 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), Javu website new routes,
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE MAIN CLIFF  
2The ShrineXS 5c *1
3Rude NudeE3 5c **2
4The AlmightyE1 5a *5
5PilgrimXS 5b  
6The Big SheepE3 5c * 
7Savage GodE4 5c **6
8Savage God DirectE4 6a  
9BlunderbussE3 5b *1
10The HeathenXS 5b  
11AntichristE3 5b 1
12SummerhouseE3 5b 1
13The VergerE1 5a **21
14Machineries of JoyE2 5c  
15Crucial BunnyE2 5a  
16PrayermatE1 4c 6
17Loose WomanE1 5b **83
18BarabbasE1 5a 1
19StopfordE1 4c  
 Climb nameGradex
20The SextonE3 5c **1
21The ArchtemperE3 5b **16
22Lord BaftaE5 5c/6a ** 
23GodspellE4 6a **5
24The Naked GodE6 6a **2
25Making Plans for NigelXS 5b  
26The Ghost of Belle AireE6 6b/c ** 
27Eraser BladeE1 5a 2
 BLACKCHURCH ROCK  
29MoluscicideE2 5b 1
30Noir et BlancHVS 5a 2
31Rite of SpringVS 4c *40
32Les InvalidesE2 5c 2
33Sacre CoeurE2 5b ***233
34Dance on a VolcanoE3 5c *7
35Jamaican DubE3 6a **45
36RantE3 6a *1
37Notre DameVS 4b *56
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A short video of a grand day out on the amazing sea stack formation of Blackchurch Rock on the Culm Coast near Hartland in North Devon. There are a number of most excellent routes (including 2 nice VS's at either end) on this fantastic foreshore pinnacle, complete with two walk-through tunnels, but the jewel in the crown is the superlative and most photogenic E2 5b/c "Sacre Coeur" first climbed by the legend Pat Littlejohn in 1974. The route is rightly described by UKC and Rockfax as "a majestic pitch of flawless quality" and a super-classic in the South West of the UK: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CS8NokZEr4 All constructive feedback or comments welcome and hopefully it may inspire a few folks with sacred hearts and strong calves to climb on Blackchurch Rock and visit this beautiful part of the UK!
BALD EAGLE - 12/Jun/14

Left side of main cliff, Savage God etc, all looked absolutely horrendous, green and yellow slime and lichen, vegetated...cap off to Mr Littlejohn...I can't imagine anybody seeing those routes and wanting to do them...I wonder how many ascents they have had?
HappyTrundler - 24/Jul/11

The Main Cliff looked well grim!
The Pylon King - 30/Aug/07