Climbs 35
Rocktype Culm

Faces NW

Climbers on Blackchurch Rock © EddieBauer

Crag features

An area featuring the "delights" of XS routes (up to 300ft) featuring some splendid crumbly rubbish and imaginary protection. But also features the fantastic and more normal pleasures of slab climbs such as Sacre Coeur (E2 5b) and Jamaican Dub (E3 5c) - which make it well worth turning up.

Approach notes

Tidal on some parts.

Approach feasible from Clovelly and then walk along the coastal footpath. Alternatively, park at Brownsham Farm (SS 286 259) and walk (1mi) through woods to the old limekilns at Mouth Mill, by the crag.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
A short video of a grand day out on the amazing sea stack formation of Blackchurch Rock on the Culm Coast near Hartland in North Devon. There are a number of most excellent routes (including 2 nice VS's at either end) on this fantastic foreshore pinnacle, complete with two walk-through tunnels, but the jewel in the crown is the superlative and most photogenic E2 5b/c "Sacre Coeur" first climbed by the legend Pat Littlejohn in 1974. The route is rightly described by UKC and Rockfax as "a majestic pitch of flawless quality" and a super-classic in the South West of the UK: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CS8NokZEr4 All constructive feedback or comments welcome and hopefully it may inspire a few folks with sacred hearts and strong calves to climb on Blackchurch Rock and visit this beautiful part of the UK!
BALD EAGLE - 12/Jun/14
Left side of main cliff, Savage God etc, all looked absolutely horrendous, green and yellow slime and lichen, vegetated...cap off to Mr Littlejohn...I can't imagine anybody seeing those routes and wanting to do them...I wonder how many ascents they have had?
HappyTrundler - 24/Jul/11
The Main Cliff looked well grim!
The Pylon King - 30/Aug/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Main Cliff 
2The Shrine
-
XS 5c *1
3Rude NudeE3 5c **2
4The Almighty
-
E1 5a *7
5Pilgrim
-
XS 5b  
6The Big Sheep
-
E3 5c * 
7Savage God
-
E4 5c **7
8Savage God Direct
-
E4 6a  
9Blunderbuss
-
E3 5b *1
10The Heathen
-
XS 5b  
11Antichrist
-
E3 5b 2
12Summerhouse
-
E3 5b 1
13The VergerE1 5a *24
14Machineries of Joy
-
E2 5c  
15Crucial Bunny
-
E2 5a  
16Prayermat
-
E1 4c 7
17Loose WomanE1 5b *96
18Barabbas
-
E1 5a 1
19Stopford
-
E1 4c  
20The Sexton
-
E3 5c **2
21The ArchtemperE3 5b **19
22Lord BaftaE5 5c/6a ** 
23GodspellE5 6a **6
24The Naked GodE6 6a **2
25Making Plans for Nigel
-
XS 5b  
26The Ghost of Belle AireE6 6b/c ** 
27Eraser Blade
-
E1 5a 2
 Blackchurch Rock 
29Moluscicide
-
E2 5b 1
30Noir et Blanc
-
HVS 5a 2
31Rite of SpringVS 4c *55
32Les Invalides
-
E2 5c 2
33Sacre CoeurE2 5c ***282
34Dance on a Volcano
-
E3 5c *7
35Jamaican DubE3 6a ***53
36RantE3 6a *1
37Notre DameVS 4b 70

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Kemball