Blackchurch Devon, ENGLAND
Climbs 35 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces NW
An area featuring the "delights" of XS routes (up to 300ft) featuring some splendid crumbly rubbish and imaginary protection. But also features the fantastic and more normal pleasures of slab climbs such as Sacre Coeur (E2 5b) and Jamaican Dub (E3 5c) - which make it well worth turning up.
Tidal on some parts.
The main cliff is on the privately-owned Clovelly Estate.
Approach feasible from Clovelly and then walk along the coastal footpath. Alternatively, park at Brownsham Farm (SS 286 259) and walk (1mi) through woods to the old limekilns at Mouth Mill, by the crag.
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South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), Javu website new routes,
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)
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A short video of a grand day out on the amazing sea stack formation of Blackchurch Rock on the Culm Coast near Hartland in North Devon. There are a number of most excellent routes (including 2 nice VS's at either end) on this fantastic foreshore pinnacle, complete with two walk-through tunnels, but the jewel in the crown is the superlative and most photogenic E2 5b/c "Sacre Coeur" first climbed by the legend Pat Littlejohn in 1974. The route is rightly described by UKC and Rockfax as "a majestic pitch of flawless quality" and a super-classic in the South West of the UK:
All constructive feedback or comments welcome and hopefully it may inspire a few folks with sacred hearts and strong calves to climb on Blackchurch Rock and visit this beautiful part of the UK!|
BALD EAGLE - 12/Jun/14
Left side of main cliff, Savage God etc, all looked absolutely horrendous, green and yellow slime and lichen, vegetated...cap off to Mr Littlejohn...I can't imagine anybody seeing those routes and wanting to do them...I wonder how many ascents they have had?
HappyTrundler - 24/Jul/11
The Main Cliff looked well grim!
The Pylon King - 30/Aug/07