Climbs 100
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces N

Coastguard Slab © Urgles

Crag features

Esoteric but still the most accessible and relatively amenable sea cliff crag on the Exmoor coast with plenty of routes in the low and mid grades. A lot of good slabby rock abounds but there are some areas of poor rock where experience is essential; most routes have grassy finishes to rusty belay stakes.

The western extent of the cliff (west facing), next to Bossington Beach has some good short, steep routes (tidal) and a boulderer's playground directly off the beach. The large, non tidal, central concave Coastguard Wall provides routes up to 60m. The rock on the lower half should be treated with caution but is no worse than some Cornish Culm cliffs. On the East side the slabs become more tidal but also more solid until the excellent Fledgling Wall, reminiscent of Baggy, is reached. High up above sea level and 400m east of the lookout are the Coney Combe slabs identified by the large circular recess in the centre.

Approach notes

Park in the pay and display carpark in Bossington and take the coast path eastwards for 3/4 of a mile to the disused Coastguard lookout. The cliffs are directly below this.

The stake at the top of Coastguard Wall is rotted to oblivion. There is another stake, which for some reason is lying at the bottom!? Its a great slab so if somebody has some spare they'd definitely be appreciated here although rock belays are possible in the shattered outcrops nearby.
Samuel Wainwright - 17/Jun/15
Climbed here today, what a hidden gem! Loved Coastguard wall, generally pretty solid and good gear, with a nice belay at the top. Fledgling Slab was good, some good climbing with varying degrees of protection. However, a word of caution, the stakes at the top of this slab are rusty (gave one a gentle tug to test and it snapped off!!!) and another looks suspect. One really solid stake still in place, which was comforting! There may have been more but couldn't see any as they camouflage themselves pretty well. With new solid stakes this would be a great venue.
ianlaw - 13/Aug/14
The steep wall at the Bossington Beach area has become every bit the training venue of choice in the Exmoor Area. It stays dry in all but the worst rain, drys very quickly, is non-tidal and steep. (We have dubbed it 'Stoney Bossington'!) A range of eliminates, traverses and link ups exist. The rock is sharp and abrasive but your arms and shoulders will be ruined by the time your fingers get too sore. For those less inclined to steep bouldering, there are some nice slabs on good smooth wave washed rock here too (they are tidal though).
granticus - 03/Oct/12
A major Rockfall (back in 2008) on the 'Brandyman slab' has deposited a huge slice of slab on the screes below affecting the routes Brandyman, Voyage, Huckleberry Thin and Tranquility Base. No repeats known since the rockfall.
Urgles - 09/Jul/12
very good crag which deserves more publicity!
Stanners - 10/Jun/12
First Trip to Hurlstone - here are a few observations: Coastguard Wall Stakes at the top are reasonable. We took our own but didn't feel it necessary to use them. The climbs are reasonably secure, although each hold needs testing and handling with care. The top of the routes on hte right hand side look quite lichenous and would require a clean. Fledgling Wall We didn't climb on this wall as the top looked extremely herbaceous and we didn't really have the time for gardening Region between Fledgling and Coastguard (does it have a name?) Some of these routes are really clean and solid and very worthwhile. There are blocks at the top for belaying but we didn't see any stakes.
James Moyle - 04/Jun/10
The stakes and pegs are now reported to be bit rusty (in places very rusty), and should naturally be treated with caution, as befitting any sea cliff.
freelancer_85 - 27/Jun/08
Have to agree with Tom, the move is powerful and committing, but it's not a big fall and you're got lots of very good gear below you.
freelancer_85 - 10/Jul/07
Sorry but Brandyman is HVS, the move after getting onto the block is unexpectedly hard, but not E1.
thomasadixon - 09/Jul/07
I agree, Brandyman is E1. The belay bolts are gone, replaced by a stake 20ft above the top of the climb.
Rusty Peg - 26/Jul/06
Climbed Brandyman last year. Has to be worth E1. Was a little apprehensive sitting on the large jammed block below the roof; surprising but committing moving over it. There are some newish bolt stubs to use as belays - wire over the top. Thought the cleaning/wire brushing to the right of the climb was far too thorough!!!
Brad Jackson - 10/Feb/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 TERRY'S SLAB 
2Turf War
-
HVD  
3Roller Coaster
-
HVD 1
 CONEY COMBE 
5Ruthless Rabbit
-
VS 4c  
6Crack Shot
-
HVS 5a  
7Flexy Time
-
E1 5b  
8Mondeo Man
-
HVS 5a  
9The Passenger
-
E2 5c  
10Some Mother's Don't Have Them
-
HVS 5a  
11BrandymanHVS 5a 6
12VoyageE1 5b  
13Huckleberry ThinE2 5c  
14Tranquility BaseE2 5c  
15Simons Starter
-
none  
16Cosmic Mariner
-
E2 5c  
17Germinal
-
E1 5b  
18Safety at Stake
-
E1 5b  
 FLEDGLING WALL 
20Good Breeding
-
D 1
21Tidal Race
-
S 4a  
22Losing Dreams
-
S 4b *7
23Family Business
-
VS 5a * 
24Pop Up
-
HS 5a *6
25Pippin DirectVS 4c *8
26Blue Raisin
-
VS 5a *3
27Pippin
-
VD  
28ParallelogramVS 4c 6
29Jailbird
-
VS 4c *12
30The Traverse Of Fledgling Wall
-
D 3
31Touch our LivesE1 5c *2
32Total Quality Creamery
-
HVS 5a *5
33Hobby Horse
-
VS 4b *7
34Mojo
-
E1 5a **3
35Mojo Variation
-
E2 5b  
36Cave and Corner Crossover ClimbE2 5c  
37Borromere
-
VD  
 FLEDGLING PINNACLE 
39Seal ManeuverHVS 5c *2
40That's a Smelly Seagull!HVS 5a 2
 TRIPLE SLABS 
42Broken PromiseHVS 5b *1
43L'Acrobat
-
HVS 5a  
44Point of Evolution
-
HS 4b  
45Sauron
-
S 1
46Monorail
-
S 3
47Jam Dingo
-
E1 5a 1
48Gandalf
-
S 1
49Gimli
-
HS 4b 1
50Serge Gousseault
-
HS 4b *4
51Carlyn
-
S  
52Strider
-
HS  
53Henry
-
S 3
 COASTGUARD WALL 
55Uruk HaiVD 4
56Giant
-
HVS 4c 1
57Spot The Mongoose
-
HVD  
58Nailfile
-
VS 1
59The Devil
-
VS  
60Tobys Route
-
HVS 4c 3
61Nazgul
-
HS 4a 12
62SeveranceE1 5a *6
63Coastguard CutterVS 4b 8
64Coastguard Slab
-
VS 4b **19
65Routefinder
-
S 4b 2
 CAVE AREA 
67Lazarus
-
E1 5a  
68The Elder
-
D 2
69Jonathan
-
S 2
70Fletcher
-
HVD 1
71The Raven
-
VS 4b *2
72Brilliant White
-
S  
73Resurrection
-
E2 5b/c 1
 BOSSINGTON BEACH AREA 
75The Apprentice
-
E3 5c  
76Nameless
-
HS 4b *7
77One Way Street
-
HVD *11
78Evenin' Orl
-
VD 5
79Evening Crack
-
S 4a 10
80Munchkin
-
VS 4c *11
81PebbleS 1
82Shingle Shack
-
HVS 5a 2
83Cringle Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
84Pebble Pump
-
HVS 5a 2
85Rain Dancer
-
E3 5c  
86Browning Man
-
HVS 4b/5a 1
87Microlithic ManD *1
88Rude Information LadyM *1
89Strata for TenHVD *1

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