Climbs 20
Rocktype Gabbro
Altitude 902m a.s.l
Faces E

North from Blaven summit © Dom Slater

Crag features

Blaven, which lies outside the main Cuillin has some superb hard rock climbing on the main prow.

A traverse of Clach Glas and Blaven in summer or winter is a low grade expedition (Diff, III) only rivalled by one other mountaineering route for quality - the neighbouring main Cuillin Ridge.

The Great Prow article in Hard Rock is an excellent read.

Stairway to Heaven features in Extreme Rock.

Approach notes

Possible stalking restrictions during the autumn.

Approach from the head of Loch Slapin on the Elgol road. 2 hours.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
S *2
E1 5b *4
3Stairway to Heaven
E5 6a ***10
4The Great Prow
HVS 5a *64
5Central PillarS 3
6Clach Glas - Blaven Traverse (Blabheinn)D ***294
7The Outsider
VD 1
S 1
9South East Flank Bla Bheinn
2 7
10Escape From Colditz
III **5
11Birthday GrooveVD **4
HVS 5a *** 
13Clough's Cleft
V 6 *** 
14CD ButtressHD *2
15South Buttress Gully, BlabheinnII **3
16A ButtressD *2
17B ButtressM *1
18Splinter Finish to Great ProwE2 5c ** 
19Finger in the Dyke *
E5 6a *** 
20Dyke Route *3 **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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