Kilt Rock, Staffin

Climbs 59 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 37m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Located on the east coast of Skye's Trotternish Peninsula, the striking rock formation known as Kilt Rock is a 180 foot high sea cliff giving several main climbing arenas of geographical & style segregation. The massive columns of dolerite have the appearance of pleats in a tartan kilt & traditionally form the basis of the Skye tartan pattern. This entirely natural phenomenon relates in appearance, although not identically, to the recorded basalt rocks at Staffa near Iona. Kilt Rock is a hugely popular viewpoint & plenty of parking is available nearby for climbers & kit.

This amazing columnar jointed dolerite gives an extreme rock outing that will stay with the climber for many years.

When rain and wind come from the west this can be perfectly dry.

Classics - Grey Panther, Wide Eyed, Footloose

Awesome - Sun Toucher, Killer Whale, Wide Eyed, Sheer Sear

Worrying - Crux Reverie

If bivvying or camping take into account that crofting/farming grounds surround the verticalities. The Kilt cliffs provide an excellent venue in their own right with plenty of gaps still to be filled. If the Cuillin is out of action due to bad weather you could do worse then visit Kilt, the Storr or, Rubha Hunish & the underated Cairn Liath [also covered in this section] whick overlooks Kilt in the immediate hills behind. Abseiling from the carpark railings beside Mealt Falls, will freak tourists out to the point of distraction.

There are parts of Kilt which are short of natural belays so an extra rope attached to steel stakes or the fence can be very useful.

Approach notes
Abseil descent for some routes & the entire venue can be treacherous in the wet, in storms. Hanging belays for some routes & projects.

Scottish Rock - North (2009)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2CakVS 4b 3
5Jammy DodgerVS 5a *5
6JamboreeVS 4c *1
7The ViewHVS 5a * 
8Ragged RobinS **2
9A Haggis Called WandaE2 5b ** 
10Fancy FreeE2 5b **2
11BilidowcarE4 6a ** 
12Received With ThanksE2 5b * 
13Drop The PilotE4 6a **1
14Black Crow KingE3 6a  
15The PioneerE1 5a/b **1
16The DanglersE1 5a, 4b * 
17BandaskyE1 5b ** 
18Easter IslandHVS 5a * 
19Pinnacle ChimneyVD  
20Ellishadder PinnacleVS  
21EntrevennesE1 5b ** 
24RomperS 9
25SporranE1 5b 7
26Pied PiperE1 5b  
27The Electric BagpipeVS 5a ***45
28ClandestineVS 4c ***37
29BrazenE2 5c * 
30Secret ServiceHVS 5a ***21
31Tartan TerrorE1 5b **20
32SkyemanE2 5b **21
33Wide EyedE2 5b **6
34Edge of BeyondE2 5c ***17
35Mystery CatE3 6a 2
36Grey PantherE1 5b ***194
37InternationaleE2 5b **30
38Iron CrowE3 6a **3
39FootlooseE3 5c * 
40RuinationE3 5c * 
41Road To RuinE2 5b **3
42F.B.C.HVS 5a  
43Brightside CrossingE2 5b, 5b ** 
44Killer WhaleE4 6a **3
45The Great DeepE3 5b, 5c  
47Fe Fi Fo FumE3 5c ***1
48Frisky after WhiskyE3 5c ***5
49StormwatchMVS 4b  
51Staffin SpecialVS 4c **2
52TempestE3 6a **1
53Ill WindE5 6a, 6b  
55Sheer SearE5 6a *** 
56Over The RainbowE5 6b ***1
58BlasphogE2 6a  
59Actually HyperboleE3 5c 2
60Demon LoverE5 6a  
61High NoonE2 5b  
62Toll DubhHVS 4c, 5b  
63Fish TailE1 5b  
64Bocan MorE2 5c, 4b  
65Mushroom BillyE2 5b ** 
66GodzillaE3 6a ***2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ian Jones

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
\"Wide Eyed\" E2 5b is a top climb where you just have to trust your feet due to poor handholds, its 40m of vertical rock with twin cracks, the left one opening wide enough to do a whole body jam! But try not to do this as you won\'t want to come out!
Mark Falcus - 14/May/02