Doyden Point

Climbs 13 – Rocktype Pillow lava – Altitude 5m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Pleasant and compact, getting the afternoon sun. Some looseness near the top of the cliff. Includes some "culm coast specials", ie XS routes which go beyond and above grading. But Lotus (E1 5a) and Illegal Alien (XS 5c) are worth doing.

Access notes
Non-tidal but affected at the base by rough seas.

NT car park at Portquin. The Point is visible as a rounded headland . Walk up the steep hill to a signposted right of way past a large house, then across grass slopes and down easy rock to a sloping gully and ledge 10m above the sea.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Entry RouteHS 4b
2WatergateE1 5b
3Dynamo HumE2 5c
4Flying CircusE2 5c *
5CapriceVS 4c *
6The ShrinkE1 5b
7DecumanusE1 5b *
8LotusE1 5b **
9Yogic FlyerE5 6a **
10Illegal AlienE3 6a **
11Sick RoseE4 6a *
12WiltingE6 6a *
13VisageE2 5c *
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The traverse approach is affected at high tide unless the sea is very calm. The platform where Decumanus etc. start can be reached by abseiling down The Shrink (stake plus natural anchors in the summit outcrop). Sick Rose etc. need a low-medium tide and a fairly calm sea.
duncan - 26/May/09