Doyden Point Cornwall, ENGLAND
Climbs 13 – Rocktype Pillow lava – Altitude 5m a.s.l – Faces W
Pleasant and compact, getting the afternoon sun. Some looseness near the top of the cliff. Includes some "culm coast specials", ie XS routes which go beyond and above grading. But Lotus (E1 5a) and Illegal Alien (XS 5c) are worth doing.
Non-tidal but affected at the base by rough seas.
NT car park at Portquin. The Point is visible as a rounded headland . Walk up the steep hill to a signposted right of way past a large house, then across grass slopes and down easy rock to a sloping gully and ledge 10m above the sea.
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South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: North Devon and Cornwall (1988)
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The traverse approach is affected at high tide unless the sea is very calm. The platform where Decumanus etc. start can be reached by abseiling down The Shrink (stake plus natural anchors in the summit outcrop).
Sick Rose etc. need a low-medium tide and a fairly calm sea.|
duncan - 26/May/09