Climbs 13
Rocktype Pillow lava
Altitude 5m a.s.l
Faces W

Doyden at sunset © Mike Meysner

Crag features

Pleasant and compact, getting the afternoon sun. Some looseness near the top of the cliff. Includes some "culm coast specials", ie XS routes which go beyond and above grading. But Lotus (E1 5a) and Illegal Alien (XS 5c) are worth doing.

Approach notes

Non-tidal but affected at the base by rough seas.

NT car park at Portquin. The Point is visible as a rounded headland . Walk up the steep hill to a signposted right of way past a large house, then across grass slopes and down easy rock to a sloping gully and ledge 10m above the sea.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)

Out of print:
The traverse approach is affected at high tide unless the sea is very calm. The platform where Decumanus etc. start can be reached by abseiling down The Shrink (stake plus natural anchors in the summit outcrop). Sick Rose etc. need a low-medium tide and a fairly calm sea.
duncan - 26/May/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Entry RouteHS 4b 5
2WatergateE1 5b 7
3Dynamo HumE2 5c 6
4Flying CircusE2 5c *26
5CapriceVS 4c **68
6The Shrink
E1 5b 2
E1 5b *13
8LotusE1 5b ***70
9Yogic FlyerE5 6a **3
10Illegal AlienE3 6a **3
11Sick Rose
E4 6a * 
E6 6a * 
E2 5c *1

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