Climbs 122
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces N

SUPERDIRECT 2 © jethro kiernan

Crag features

One of the few crags in Britain with every grade - and something good at each of them. (Assuming Leo Houlding's E9 7a Trauma is good.. you try it.) Multi-pitch routes up to 580ft. Best include Direct Route (VS 5b), Diagonal (HVS 5a), Superdirect (E1 5b), Ten Degrees North (E2 5b), Stairway To Heaven (E3 5c).. it's a long list.

Approach notes

Park at the Cromlech boulders (get there early) and tonk up the hill. Don't forget to enjoy the view from the top, as well as the middle and bottom.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Eastern Wing 
2Staircase Gully
-
M 6
3The Toad
-
E3 6a *3
4MPP
-
HVS 5a *11
5The Mole
-
HVS 5a **81
6Tales from the Riverbank
-
E3 6a * 
7The Molehill
-
E3 6a *2
8Gollum
-
HVS 5b **92
9A New Austerlitz
-
E3 5c **18
10Gandalf
-
E1 5a *17
11Beorn
-
E1 5c *16
12Mordor
-
E3 6a  
13Eastern Gully
-
D 32
 The Nose 
15You're not in Poland Now
-
E1 5a *3
16God Help the Sailors.....
-
E1 5b  
17Sombrero Fallout
-
E2 6a 2
18Truncheon Meat
-
E6 6c *1
19Dagrau'r GraigE1 5b 2
20TeyrnonE2 5c  
21The CracksHS 4c ***1365
22GBHE2 5c *28
23LorraineVS 4c **465
24Lorraine VariationHVS 5a **189
25Trauma
-
E9 7a *1
26Direct RouteVS 5b ***1044
27Orogenous ZonesE3 5c  
28Famine
-
HVS 5a *14
29Super DirectE1 5b ***878
30ZetaE3 6a **54
31DiagonalHVS 5a ***980
32Crosstie
-
HVS 5a *48
33Stairway to HeavenE3 5c **37
34Stairway Direct
-
E4 5c *2
35The Laughing Buddah
-
E4 6a * 
36The Link/The ChainE1 5b **190
37West RibHVS 5a **464
38Blink! - Don'tE1 5b 3
39Western SlabsVS 4c **872
40Speeding Fine
-
E2 5b 13
41Spaghetti Western
-
HVS 5a 3
42The Girdle of the Nose
-
VS 4c 5
43Western Gully
-
M 63
44North Ridge of Crib Goch
-
D 84
 The Western Wing 
46Slow Ledge ClimbVS 4b **142
47Black Shadow
-
E3 5c *25
48Black and White
-
E3 5c 1
49Black SpringHVS 5a **96
50Coon's Yard
-
E2 5b *11
51Black Foot
-
E2 5b **1
52Dolerite DumpVD 4
53Cold FusionE4 6a ***8
54Tremolite
-
E1 5b *10
55Bluebell Cracks
-
S 3c 10
56Sych
-
E2 5c 2
57Dole-ite Variation
-
E1 5b 2
58Sidewinder
-
E2 5b * 
59Hiawatha
-
HVS 5b *11
60Intruder
-
HVS 5a 2
61Pokeyhuntas
-
E3 5c  
62Ghost Dance
-
E3 5c  
63Jubilee Climb
-
HVS 5b **79
64War Drum
-
HVS 5a *4
65TyndrumE1 5b 1
66One Inch PunchE7 6c *1
67Jammed Boulder Gully
-
3 **52
68Jammed Boulder Gully(Winter)III **10
69Jammed Boulder Gully ButtressIV 4 *3
70Jammed Boulder Buttress
-
III *2
 Groper Buttress 
72The Lymph
-
E2 5c 1
73Groper
-
E3 6a *4
74Zyklon 'B'
-
E4 6a  
75Runnymead
-
E2 5b 1
76Black Cleft
-
S 3a 3
77Black Cleft (Winter)
-
IV 5 **2
78Western Wing Girdle
-
M 1
 Plexus 
80Barrel Traverse into the Minimum
-
V8 **3
81Sexus
-
E4 6b *4
82The Red Ring
-
E5 6b ** 
83Perplexus
-
E5 6b **1
84PlexusE1 5b ***375
85Ten Degrees NorthE2 5c ***199
86Dinas in the Dog
-
E3 6a * 
87NexusE1 5b ***364
88Nexus DirectE5 6b *7
89The WindmillE3 5c **18
90The Smodge
-
E4 6a 2
91The Plexus Girdle
-
E3 5b **5
92Gardd
-
HVS 5a *46
93Hornets Attack Victor Mature
-
E2 5c *24
94Twin Groove
-
D *1
95Do Or DaiE7 6b ** 
96Ayacucho CrackE1 5b  
97The Shining PathE5 6b, 6a **3
98Garden Groove
-
D 1
 Beginners Mind Crag 
100Beginner's Mind
-
E7 6c *1
101Grin's Twins
-
E6 6b  
102My Favourite Route....
-
E7 6c  
 Summer Teeth Boulder 
104Summit o' Nothing
-
f6C+ **5
105Summer Telse
-
f7A **4
106Bag of Sticks
-
f7B 1
107Summer Teeth
-
f6C **4
 The Barrel 
109Barrel Groove
-
V8+ **23
110Barrel TraverseV9 **24
111The Minimum
-
V7 **105
112Barrel Traverse into Bulling 747
-
V8 **1
113Problem 5V3 **52
114Problem 6V4 **26
115Bulling 747
-
V6 **48
116Got me over...
-
V6 *4
117Looking down...
-
V5 *1
 The Barrel Cave 
119The Tracks
-
f8A+ *7
120Dead and Bloatedf8B **1
121Stoned Temple Pilotsf8A **18
122Stoned temple Pilots standf7B **4
123Ropes of Maui
-
f8B *3
124Original Problem
-
f7A 1
 Other Boulders 
126Gav's Big ProblemV7 **1
127Lieutenant DanV4 *1
128Forrest GumpV4 **1
129Thumbs UpV3  
130The BogeyV5 **5
131Thumbs downV1  
132Fore Armed Is For WarnedV3 * 

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