Climbs 119
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces N

SUPERDIRECT 2 © jethro kiernan

Crag features

One of the few crags in Britain with every grade - and something good at each of them. (Assuming Leo Houlding's E9 7a Trauma is good.. you try it.) Multi-pitch routes up to 580ft. Best include Direct Route (VS 5b), Diagonal (HVS 5a), Superdirect (E1 5b), Ten Degrees North (E2 5b), Stairway To Heaven (E3 5c).. it's a long list.

Approach notes

Park at the Cromlech boulders (get there early) and tonk up the hill. Don't forget to enjoy the view from the top, as well as the middle and bottom.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Eastern Wing 
2Staircase Gully
-
M 6
3The Toad
-
E3 6a *3
4MPP
-
HVS 5a *10
5The Mole
-
HVS 5a **69
6Tales from the Riverbank
-
E3 6a * 
7The Molehill
-
E3 6a *2
8Gollum
-
HVS 5b **91
9A New Austerlitz
-
E3 5c **18
10Gandalf
-
E1 5a *12
11Beorn
-
E1 5c *15
12Mordor
-
E3 6a  
13Eastern Gully
-
D 32
 The Nose 
15You're not in Poland Now
-
E1 5a *3
16God Help the Sailors.....
-
E1 5b  
17Sombrero Fallout
-
E2 6a 1
18Truncheon Meat
-
E6 6c *1
19The CracksHS 4c ***1150
20GBHE2 5c *27
21LorraineVS 4c **440
22Lorraine VariationHVS 5a **179
23Trauma
-
E9 7a *1
24Direct RouteVS 5b ***996
25Famine
-
HVS 5a *14
26Super DirectE1 5b ***832
27ZetaE3 6a **56
28DiagonalHVS 5a ***951
29Crosstie
-
HVS 5a *44
30Stairway to HeavenE3 5c **35
31Stairway Direct
-
E4 5c *1
32The Laughing Buddah
-
E4 6a * 
33The Link/The ChainE1 5b **167
34West RibHVS 5a **424
35Blink! - Don'tE1 5b 3
36Western SlabsVS 4c **828
37Speeding Fine
-
E2 5b 12
38Spaghetti Western
-
HVS 5a 3
39The Girdle of the Nose
-
VS 4c 5
40Western Gully
-
M 63
41North Ridge of Crib Goch
-
D 83
 The Western Wing 
43Slow Ledge ClimbVS 4b **133
44Black Shadow
-
E3 5c *24
45Black and White
-
E3 5c 1
46Black SpringHVS 5a **92
47Coon's Yard
-
E2 5b *11
48Black Foot
-
E2 5b **1
49Dolerite DumpVD 3
50Cold FusionE4 6a ***7
51Tremolite
-
E1 5b *7
52Bluebell Cracks
-
S 3c 10
53Sych
-
E2 5c 1
54Dole-ite Variation
-
E1 5b 2
55Sidewinder
-
E2 5b * 
56Hiawatha
-
HVS 5b *11
57Intruder
-
HVS 5a 2
58Pokeyhuntas
-
E3 5c  
59Ghost Dance
-
E3 5c  
60Jubilee Climb
-
HVS 5b **75
61War Drum
-
HVS 5a *4
62TyndrumE1 5b 1
63One Inch PunchE7 6c *1
64Jammed Boulder Gully
-
3 **50
65Jammed Boulder Gully(Winter)III **10
66Jammed Boulder Gully ButtressIV 4 *3
67Jammed Boulder Buttress
-
III *2
 Groper Buttress 
69The Lymph
-
E2 5c 1
70Groper
-
E3 6a *4
71Zyklon 'B'
-
E4 6a  
72Runnymead
-
E2 5b 1
73Black Cleft
-
S 3a 3
74Black Cleft (Winter)
-
IV 5 **2
75Western Wing Girdle
-
M 1
 Plexus 
77Barrel Traverse into the Minimum
-
V8 **3
78Sexus
-
E4 6b *4
79The Red Ring
-
E5 6b ** 
80Perplexus
-
E5 6b **1
81PlexusE1 5b ***280
82Ten Degrees NorthE2 5c ***155
83Dinas in the Dog
-
E3 6a * 
84NexusE1 5b ***272
85Nexus DirectE5 6b *7
86The WindmillE3 5c **15
87The Smodge
-
E4 6a 2
88The Plexus Girdle
-
E3 5b **5
89Gardd
-
HVS 5a *45
90Hornets Attack Victor Mature
-
E2 5c *22
91Twin Groove
-
D *1
92Do Or DaiE7 6b ** 
93Ayacucho CrackE1 5b  
94The Shining PathE5 6b, 6a **3
95Garden Groove
-
D 1
 Beginners Mind Crag 
97Beginner's Mind
-
E7 6c *1
98Grin's Twins
-
E6 6b  
99My Favourite Route....
-
E7 6c  
 Summer Teeth Boulder 
101Summit o' Nothing
-
f6C+ **5
102Summer Telse
-
f7A **4
103Bag of Sticks
-
f7B 1
104Summer Teeth
-
f6C **4
 The Barrel 
106Barrel Groove
-
V8+ **16
107Barrel TraverseV9 **24
108The Minimum
-
V7 **100
109Barrel Traverse into Bulling 747
-
V8 **1
110Problem 5V3 **51
111Problem 6V4 **25
112Bulling 747
-
V6 **48
113Got me over...
-
V6 *4
114Looking down...
-
V5 *1
 The Barrel Cave 
116The Tracks
-
f8A+ *3
117Dead and Bloatedf8B **1
118Stoned Temple Pilotsf8A **9
119Stoned temple Pilots standf7B **4
120Ropes of Maui
-
f8B *1
121Original Problem
-
f7A 1
 Other Boulders 
123Gav's Big ProblemV7 **1
124Lieutenant DanV4 *1
125Forrest GumpV4 **1
126Thumbs UpV3  
127The BogeyV5 **5
128Thumbs downV1  
129Fore Armed Is For WarnedV3 * 

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