Glen Clova - Red Craigs area

Climbs 200 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 597m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
See also entries on :

Corrie Fee and Winter Corrie for winter climbing in Glen Clova.

Summer climbing in Glen Clova is restricted to the lower crags along the valley. Some excellent short (< 50 m) hard climbs are to be found on a variety of crags, such as Red Crag.

Must do's - Proud Corner (VS) & Red Wall (E1).

Has the advantage of being closet climbing to Dundee (!)

Access notes
Possible restrictions during Stalking season.

(Sept - Jan) [disputed.]

As of 11 Apr 2011 there is an owl nesting on Beanstalk. It might be wise to stay off routes between Wander and Proud Corner for now.

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), North East Outcrops (2003), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998), North East Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 SOLAR WIND CRAG 
2The Cosmic PumpE3 6a
3Solar WindE3 6b *
4Ion DriveE3 6a
5SidestepE1 5b
 LOWER DOONIE 
7Jake's Jungle RouteXS 4a
8Jug WallE1 5c
9The Thin WallVS 4c
10MandyE2 5c **
11Lichen GrooveVS 4c
12Ally's CrackHVS 5a
13Four Corners RouteHVS 5a
14AlcopopsE1 5b *
15Summer's OverE2 5c
16GuinnessE1 5b **
17GuinlessE4 5c **
18Special BrewHVS 5a **
19The Furstenburg FinishHVS 5a **
20Special Brew DirectE3 5c **
21BelhavenE3 5c *
22Belhaven (Stella variation)E4 5c
23HeinekinE1 5b
24ExportHVS 5b
25The Pub CrawlE1 5b
26Ant SlabM
27Koflach CornerHS
28Witches MateVS 4c
29Ent MootHS
 UPPER DOONIE 
31Shadow on the WallE1 5c
32Larch Tree WallVD
33Elliptical DreamsE2 5c
34HeadspreadE4 6a
35The CatwalkE1 5a
36CatbirdHVS 5b
37Henry's CatE1 5b
38The SlicerHVS 4c *
39The GraterE2 5c
40FastbreederE4 5c **
41The Making of BunnyE1 5b
42Green BunnyVS 5a
43Green ShieldVS 4c
44VindalooE1 5b ***
45Scoopy DubhE4 6b
46ChitterooE4 6a *
47D.R.I.E6 6a
48Overhanging CoronerE4 6a *
49The WhoremistressE4 6a ***
50Dancin' in the RuinsE3 5c *
51Cream CrackerE2 5c
52Jungle WarfareHVS 5a
53Faulty TowersE2 5c *
 HIGH CRAG 
55Wee SlabD
56PocketeerHVS 5a
57PickpocketE1 5b
58CentipodHVS 5a
59ArachnidHVS 5b
60GruntVS 5a
61GeotechnicianHVS 5a
62Bon AnniversaireHVS 5a
 UPPER NORTHWEST CRAG 
64IncarcerationE2 5c
65Sun Goes DownE1 5b *
66JailbreakE3 5c
67Just Another SparklerE3 5c **
68Roman CandleE4 6a ***
69ZigZag DirectHVS 5b **
70ZigZag Double DirectE2 5c ***
71999E2 5c
72The Return of the Living DeadE2 5b
73Zig ZagVS 4c *
74High Level Traverse and Direct FinishHS **
75A Vanishing BreedE6 6b **
76The SorcererE4 6a *
77The Supernatural AnaesthetistE4 6a *
78Sorcerer's ApprenticeE2 5c *
79Pudding FingersE2 5b
80AlderVS 4c ***
81Hanging ChimneyS
82Kremlin ControlE2 5c *
83Red WallE1 5b ***
84The Cold WarE2 5c
85Taste Me!E4 6a
86Carn Dearg CornerE2 5c
87W+S ChimneyS
88Fool's EdgeHVS 5a
89The Magical Mystery TourE3 5c *
 LOWER NORTHWEST CRAG 
91Twenty Minute RouteM
92Step-Ladder AreteVD 4b *
93GanderVS 4c
94WanderHVS 5a **
95WanderedHVS 5a ***
96The BeanstalkVS 4b *
97The Beanstalk - Direct FinishHVS 5a
98The Beanstalk - Dander FinishVS 4c *
99Proud CornerVS 4c ***
100CinderellaE6 6a ***
101RocketmanE3 5b *
102Taken By ForceE2 5c *
103Monster's CrackHS
104Monster MunchE2 6a
105Taken With EaseHVS 5a
106Witch's ToothE1 5b **
107Witch's Tooth DirectE4 6a
108Cauldron CrackHVS 5a **
109HalloweenE2 6a
110RanderE1 5b
111Wizard's WallHS
112Plonker's PassageHVS 5a
 CENTRAL CRAG 
114Ride My Face to ChicagoE2 5b
115West Side StoryE2 5b *
116Bark at the MoonE8 6c ***
117Mearns WallE5 6a
118Black AdderE4 6a
119Empire of the SunE4 6a ***
120The Burning WorldE6 6b **
121Burning BrightE6 6b
122Sunset Song IndirectE5 6b *
123Sunset SongE5 6b
124Sunset Song DirectE6 6b
125Gotae GroovesHVS 5a
126Upper ParapetVD
 SOUTHEAST CRAG 
128Power To BurnVS 4c *
129Three J's ChimneyVD *
130Chimney CrackHVS 5b
131Clairvoyant RealityE3 6a **
132The SpiderE3 5b
133The WildebeastE4 6a **
134Parapet Route Direct StartHS
135DarknessE1 5b
136Flake RouteS **
137Central CrackHS ***
138LemmingsE3 5c *
139Parapet RouteS *
140Parapet Route VariationVS 4b *
141Parapet Route DirectMVS 4b **
142PilgrimsHVS 5b **
143The GirdleHS
144Comes the SquirmishHVS 5b
 BOULDERING 
 SHEEP PEN / PARALLEL LINES / UNCLIMBED WALL 
147Le Toit du Cul de Moutonf7A **
148Sheep Pen Groovef6B+ **
149High SlabV1 5a
150Lady Samf7A+ ***
 THE SENTINEL 
152The Groovef5 5a
153Look SouthV1
154Skin DogV2 5c
155Sentinel AreteV4 6b
156North Wall Groovin'V3 6a
157East AreteVB 4b
158ForeV1 5a
159Look South EliminateV2 5c
160Here's Jonny!f7A+
 PEEL BOULDER 
162Groove Traversef6A
163Left Aretef6A *
164Peel Sessionf6B 6b ***
165Peel Session Sit Startf6C 6b ***
166Peel Session Left Hand SSf6B 6b **
167The Peel Traversef7A *
168Peel girdlef7B 6b
169Peeler girdlef7A+
170Peeler Crabf7A 6b
171Keeping It Peelf6C 6b
172Left Crackf6A+
173Botty No Slottyf5 5b
174Botty to Slottyf6C
175Peeling Rightf5 5b *
176Peel Slabf4+ 5a
177Fatty McGintyf5 5b
178Flat Facef5 5b
179Flat Face Sit Startf5+ 5c **
180Fatty to Flattyf5+ 5c
181Grooverf5+ 5c *
182Groovier Babyf6A+ *
183Groovie Popf6A *
184The Archersf6A *
185The Friday Rock Showf6A *
 HIDDEN RICH'S WALL 
187Feckless Wonderf4
188The Razor Bladef5
189Poke in the Eyef5+
190One in the Earf5
191Crabby Manf5
 RED ROOF 
193The Rampf6C **
194Rudolphf6C ***
195Feet For Handsf7A **
 HOLE OF WEEMS 
197Weems Aretef6A+ *
198Hole of Weemsf7A *
 FAR LEFT 
200Short Rooff6A+
201Pit Boyf7A+ ***
202Two Big Jugsf6A+ *
203Shredded Beefcakef6B **
204West Wallf6C
205Fun Slabf4 *
206Fun Aretef4 *
 FAR RIGHT 
208Red Devilsf4+ *
209Blue Angelsf6A
210Carribean Airwaysf5 *
211Reach For The Skyf6A **
 HIDDEN GEM 
213The Nosef6A
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There is an owl nesting on Monster Crack (Apr 14). Best to leave this route alone for now.
jamie84 - 13/Apr/14
worth noting I ripped off main [rather large flake] in middle of crux section of vanishing Breed 2 seasons ago. Would be considerably harder now.
mgeek - 17/Jun/13
Word on the street is that the good flake on Cinderella that is used to place the vital protection (pre crux) has now fallen off! Care must now be taken when going for this route as it has just got a lot more serious.
Greg Boswell - 17/May/12
Does your comment about 'closet climbing to Dundee' refer to gay Dundonians? IJ
Ian Jones - 06/Jul/09