Climbs 38
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 559m a.s.l
Faces SE

Tony belaying at the top of Giilercombe Buttress, March 11 © Simnel

Crag features

Large broken mountain crag best known for Gillercombe Buttress(S). Up to 140m high. Also Clara Bow(E1), Third Man(E3), Grey Knotts Face(D), Black Knight(E1), Ravens Groove(VS).

Approach notes

Thirty minute approach from Honister Summit or longer and steeper from Seathwaite.

 

THE FOLLOWING RESTRICTION DOES NOT APPLY TO ANY OF THE POPULAR ROUTES I.E. GREY KNOTTS FACE AND ALL ROUTES LEFT OF IT
The peregrines that nest on Gillercombe have normally nested well away from the climbing so no routes have been restricted. This year they obviously fancied a change of scene and have moved to set up home in a less convenient location. Consequently all the (neglected) routes on the Right Wall (i.e. right of the appropriately maned Peregrine Wall (2000 guidebook) are now restricted as is the scramble up the right side of the crag. This means that if your heart is set on doing Prudence (E8 6c) or Caution (E7 6b) you will need to wait to July!

 

Information regarding restrictions taken from Trevor Langhorns thread on the forums (05/05/2016).

Restricted Access

No issues reported.

Guidebooks

Borrowdale (2016)
Borrowdale (2000)
Out of print:
Borrowdale (1990)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 SCRAMBLING 
2Sourmilk Gill2 ***48
3North-East Buttress2 52
 CLIMBING 
5Gabbro
-
VD 14
6Rough MagicMVS 4a 3
7Rough StuffVS 4c 2
8Just say Non
-
MVS 4b 1
 Pedestal Wall 
10Pink Lady
-
HVS 4c  
11South Buttress
-
VD 2
12Pedestal Nose
-
S 2
13Pedestal Cheek
-
VD 2
14Clara Bow
-
E1 5b 2
15The Third Man
-
E3 6a 1
16Citizen Kane
-
E4 6a 2
17The Wizard of Oz
-
E5 6b 1
18Andy Warhol
-
HVS 5a 1
19Louise Brooks
-
E3 6a 1
 Gillercombe Buttress 
21Gillercombe Bastion
-
VS 4b 29
22I'm "lichen" this, heather.VS 4c *2
23Gillercombe Gully
-
VD 3
24Mad Dogs and EnglishmenVS 4c 4
25Gillercombe Buttress
-
S 3c **789
26String of PearlsE2 5b **2
27Moss Wall
-
HVS 5a 1
28Gillercombe Chimneys
-
HS 4b 4
29Grey Knotts Face
-
D *96
 The Right Wall 
31Peregrine Way
-
S  
32Tiercel Wall
-
HVS 5b  
33Raven's Groove
-
VS 4c *2
34Patient Tigers
-
E2 5c *2
35The Black Night
-
E1 5b *1
36The White Lady
-
E3 6a 1
37Eyrie
-
HVS 5a 2
38Eyrie Direct
-
E2 5b 1
39CautionE8 6c  
40Prudence
-
E7 6b  
 WINTER 
42Gillercombe Gully
-
II  
43Gillercombe ButtressIV 5 ***8
44Against all oddsIV 4 **3

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