Climbs 23
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 900m a.s.l
Faces N

How characters are built: conditions during the 20 mile round trip to Garbh Choire © hwackerhage

Crag features

Garbh Choire, one of the remote corries of Beinn A'Bhuird, offers some exceptional rock, ice and mixed routes. It is a long trek from the road but the solitude, the backdrop and the quality of the climbing make the time invested in the approach well worth it. Indeed, with the use of a mountain bike to speed you along the initial estate tracks, the approach is not too bad really. Doing it on consecutive days may begin to wear though.

Must do routes include the well known Squareface (VD), Mitre Ridge (HS / V 6) and Cumming-Crofton Route (S / VI 6). But there are many quality less well known routes too: Gold Coast Direct (V 5), The Empty Quarter (E3 5c), Slochd Wall (HVS 5a) and the more recent and superb Freebird (E4 6a) are all worthy of much more attention than they receive.

Approach notes

Restrictions during Shooting (12 August onwards) and Stalking seasons (Sept - Jan). Contact Invercauld estate.

Best methods of access utilise a mountain bike for the initial part of the approach. Either take the good tracks via Invercauld if approaching from Braemar, or via Glen Avon if approaching via Tomintoul. It's often possible to make a day visit using this method, depending on conditions, but will still feel like a long, strenuous day. Time permitting, a less physically demanding approach is to overnight at Slugain Howff (Invercauld) or Pony Men's Hut or Faindouran Bothy (Glen Avon). (ca. 1.5hrs bike to Slugain; 1.75hrs to Pony Men's Hut; 2 hrs to Faindouran.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Crucible 
2Pot Luck
-
IV 5 * 
3Gold Coast Direct
-
V 5 *** 
4Crucible Route
-
VI 5 ** 
 Squareface Buttress 
6Squareface
-
VD ***377
7Angel's EdgewayVS 4b **3
 The Flume 
9Flume DirectIV 4 **2
10Comala's Ridge
-
II *3
 Mitre Ridge 
12The GrailV 5 **1
13The Actress
-
VI 7 *1
14Mitre Ridge
-
HS *109
15Mitre Ridge (winter)
-
V 6 ***12
 West Wall 
17Fundamentalist
-
E2 5c **4
18Cumming-Crofton Route
-
S ***146
19Cumming-Crofton Route (winter)
-
VI 6 ***10
20The ChancelE1 5b **2
21The Spear of Destiny
-
E5 6a **3
22The Empty Quarter
-
E3 5c **3
23Slochd Wall
-
HVS 5a ***34
24Slochd Wall
-
IX 9 *** 
25FreebirdE4 6a ***3
26The PrimateVIII 8 ***1
 North-West Buttress 
28North-West Couloir
-
III 1
 Stob an t-sluichd 
30M and B Buttress
-
M *4

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