Garbh Choire of Beinn a'Bhuird

Climbs 21 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 900m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Garbh Choire, one of the remote corries of Beinn A'Bhuird, offers some exceptional rock, ice and mixed routes. It is a long trek from the road but the solitude, the backdrop and the quality of the climbing make the time invested in the approach well worth it. Indeed, with the use of a mountain bike to speed you along the initial estate tracks, the approach is not too bad really. Doing it on consecutive days may begin to wear though.

Must do routes include the well known Squareface (VD), Mitre Ridge (HS / V 6) and Cumming-Crofton Route (S / VI 6). But there are many quality less well known routes too: Gold Coast Direct (V 5), The Empty Quarter (E3 5c), Slochd Wall (HVS 5a) and the more recent and superb Freebird (E4 6a) are all worthy of much more attention than they receive.

Access notes
Restrictions during Shooting (12 August onwards) and Stalking seasons (Sept - Jan). Contact Invercauld estate.

Best methods of access utilise a mountain bike for the initial part of the approach. Either take the good tracks via Invercauld if approaching from Braemar, or via Glen Avon if approaching via Tomintoul. It's often possible to make a day visit using this method, depending on conditions, but will still feel like a long, strenuous day. Time permitting, a less physically demanding approach is to overnight at Slugain Howff (Invercauld) or Pony Men's Hut or Faindouran Bothy (Glen Avon). (ca. 1.5hrs bike to Slugain; 1.75hrs to Pony Men's Hut; 2 hrs to Faindouran.

Guidebooks
The Cairngorms (2007),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 THE CRUCIBLE 
2Pot LuckIV 5 *
3Gold Coast DirectV 5 ***
4Crucible RouteVI 5 **
 SQUAREFACE BUTTRESS 
6SquarefaceVD ***
7Angel's EdgewayVS 4b **
 THE FLUME 
9Flume DirectIV 4 **
10Comala's RidgeII *
 MITRE RIDGE 
12The GrailV 5 **
13The ActressVI 7 *
14Mitre RidgeHS *
15Mitre Ridge (winter)V 6 ***
 WEST WALL 
17FundamentalistE2 5c **
18Cumming-Crofton RouteS ***
19Cumming-Crofton Route (winter)VI 6 ***
20The ChancelE1 5b **
21The Spear of DestinyE5 6a **
22The Empty QuarterE3 5c **
23Slochd WallHVS 5a ***
24FreebirdE4 6a ***
25The PrimateVIII 8 ***
 STOB AN T-SLUICHD 
27M and B ButtressM *
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