Garbh Choire, one of the remote corries of Beinn A'Bhuird, offers some exceptional rock, ice and mixed routes. It is a long trek from the road but the solitude, the backdrop and the quality of the climbing make the time invested in the approach well worth it. Indeed, with the use of a mountain bike to speed you along the initial estate tracks, the approach is not too bad really. Doing it on consecutive days may begin to wear though.
Must do routes include the well known Squareface (VD), Mitre Ridge (HS / V 6) and Cumming-Crofton Route (S / VI 6). But there are many quality less well known routes too: Gold Coast Direct (V 5), The Empty Quarter (E3 5c), Slochd Wall (HVS 5a) and the more recent and superb Freebird (E4 6a) are all worthy of much more attention than they receive.
Restrictions during Shooting (12 August onwards) and Stalking seasons (Sept - Jan). Contact Invercauld estate.
Best methods of access utilise a mountain bike for the initial part of the approach. Either take the good tracks via Invercauld if approaching from Braemar, or via Glen Avon if approaching via Tomintoul. It's often possible to make a day visit using this method, depending on conditions, but will still feel like a long, strenuous day. Time permitting, a less physically demanding approach is to overnight at Slugain Howff (Invercauld) or Pony Men's Hut or Faindouran Bothy (Glen Avon). (ca. 1.5hrs bike to Slugain; 1.75hrs to Pony Men's Hut; 2 hrs to Faindouran.
|2||Pot Luck||IV 5 *|
|3||Gold Coast Direct||V 5 ***|
|4||Crucible Route||VI 5 **|
|7||Angel's Edgeway||VS 4b **||3|
|9||Flume Direct||IV 4 **||2|
|10||Comala's Ridge||II *||3|
|12||The Grail||V 5 **||1|
|13||The Actress||VI 7 *||1|
|14||Mitre Ridge||HS *||29|
|15||Mitre Ridge (winter)||V 6 ***||10|
|17||Fundamentalist||E2 5c **||3|
|18||Cumming-Crofton Route||S ***||79|
|19||Cumming-Crofton Route (winter)||VI 6 ***||10|
|20||The Chancel||E1 5b **||2|
|21||The Spear of Destiny||E5 6a **||2|
|22||The Empty Quarter||E3 5c **||2|
|23||Slochd Wall||HVS 5a ***||10|
|24||Slochd Wall||IX 9 ***|
|25||Freebird||E4 6a ***||3|
|26||The Primate||VIII 8 ***||1|
|STOB AN T-SLUICHD|
|28||M and B Buttress||M *||3|
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