Climbs 64
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces SE

Rough Rider on a perfect day © frecro

Crag features

All of the climbs are located on the prominent granite tor at the top of the hill, located in the picturesque Glen Dye, near Deeside, Aberdeenshire. This rocky lump is a distinguishing feature from all the other round topped hills in the area, and can be seen from all around. Provides short routes up to 30m on good, well protected granite - tends to be cracks and jamming.

Dries quickly.

Must Dos :

Caringorm Club Crack (S)

Bogendreip Buttress (VS 5a)

Approach notes

Directions to the car park:

From the North:

Banchory is the main town in the area: Take the B974 south towards the village of Strachan, and continue left over the bridge, staying on the B974 (The Old Military Road). The carpark for Clachnaben is on the right hand side, approximately 5 miles from leaving Strachan.

From the East (Stonehaven)

Take the A90 south, until a right turn onto the B966 which will take you through Fordoun. At a crossroads, follow the sign to Fettercairn, taking the right hand turn. At the junction in the village, take the left onto the B974, which will take you past a tearoom on the left hand side, at the bottom of a steep section of the road. ('Clattering Brig' tearoom). the carpark for Clachnaben is locate approximately 5 miles along this road, on the left hand side.

From the South:

From the A90 near Brechin, follow signs for Edzell on the B966. Continue on this road until Fettercairn, then follow the directions above as from the East.

Guidebooks

It might be useful for somebody: Clach na Beinn Climbing topo: http://myftp.e-smolinski.com/topos/Clach na Beinn - Climbing Topo.pdf
Tomek S - 29/Dec/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1No 2 Gully
-
VD 9
2No 2 Gully (winter)III 4 *6
3Viper Cracks
-
HVS 5a 8
4Python Cracks
-
VD *38
5Python Cracks Direct Start
-
VD 4c 26
6No 1 Chimney
-
VD ***100
7Cairngorm Club Crack
-
S **123
8Man EaterHVS 5a 17
9Gnasher
-
E1 5b **20
10Rough Rider
-
HVS 5a **54
11Twinkletoes
-
E1 5b **8
12Erk
-
E3 5b **11
13Yikes
-
VS 4c *14
14Stuffer
-
HS 4b 19
15Micro Rib
-
VS 4b 6
16Micro LineVD 7
17Micro LineIII 5 1
18Flip Flop
-
HVS 5b 3
19Keepy Uppy
-
HVS 5c 2
20Fissure Feugh
-
VS 4b *15
21North EndII 1
22Snotty Wotty
-
VS 5a 3
23Twilight Zone
-
VS 4c *13
24Silver Rib
-
E2 5b *8
25Square Chimney
-
VD *23
26Square Chimney (winter)IV 6 **1
27Sgoiltean na Lamhan Fuilteach
-
E1 5b *3
28Bolero
-
VS 4c **17
29Blawearie's Secret
-
HVS 5a 3
30Central Gully
-
VD 4
31Central GullyIV 4  
32Flypaper
-
VS 4c 4
33Bogendreip Buttress
-
HVS 5a ***55
34Glen Dye SlabE4 6b **1
35Crack o' the Mearns
-
VS 4c ***67
36Solus ' s na h-Uamhan
-
S **10
37Hell's Bells
-
E1 5c *2
38Hell Cat
-
VS 5a 2
39Window Gully
-
HS 4b 2
40Window Gully (Winter)
-
IV 6 *1
41Sunset Rib
-
HS 4a 3
42Cave Crack
-
HS 4a *3
43Platform Climb (summer)
-
D **42
44Platform Climb (winter)
-
III 5 3
45Outside Left
-
D 17
46Inside Left
-
VD 15
47Striker
-
HS 4a *34
48Inside Right
-
HS 15
49Pink Slab VariationHS 4
50Outside RightVS 4c 5
51Outline
-
HS *18
52Eagle Buttress
-
D 9
53Flakesville
-
S 13
54Flakemania
-
VD 16
55Southeast Gully (summer)
-
M 22
56Southeast Gully (winter)
-
II/III 6
57Vimy RidgeVS 4c *10
58Southern GrooveII 1

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