Climbs 24
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 5m a.s.l
Faces SW

Crag features

Also sports just one E5, but best for having a few routes at all grades from HVS to E3. Routes up to 130ft.

Some routes may have been damaged by rockfall: try to compare against guidebooks before setting off. Abseil inspection recommended on the promontory to the R.

Approach notes

Take the first road L (to the S) off the main road on the Pembroke (W) side of Lydstep village, then L again (sign: MOD artillery range) and follow the road past the bright-coloured Youth Hostel to the car parks - upper and lower, directly above Forbidden Head.

Follow the path W beside the wire fence to the top of the promontory (beware loose rock). Abseil off good anchors.

Alternatively, approach from Skrinkle Haven car park and (low tide only) descend to the beach: the first route is halfway along the cliffs on the W side of the bay.

Guidebooks

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

10Strange loveE6 6a **3
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 
 Forbidden Head 
 Bridge Buttress 
14Iron Pirate
-
6c+ S2 *** 
15Fooled by a Smile
-
7a S3 ** 
16Blue Mood
-
6c S2 * 
17Kelpie Poodle
-
6a S2  
18Bridie Girl
-
5c S2  
19Angry Child
-
6a S1 ** 
20The Cutting Edge
-
6a+ S1 ** 
21Musketeer
-
6b+ S1 ** 
22Hungry Heart
-
E5 6b ***4
23Run Bar BarE3 5c 1
24The CruiseE2 5b 1
25Gorak
-
E5 6b *** 
26Occam's Razor
-
7c+ *** 
27Pollinator
-
8a *** 

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