Stackpole Head

Climbs 140 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces all

Crag features

Some of the most classic routes in Pembroke here from the E2-E6 range. Fairly tidal. Routes up to 140ft. Some great traverses along and around the arches. A very esoteric east face once you have got used to the adventurous nature of this cliff.

Access notes

Bird ban Feb 1 - July 31. Tidal: access to the boulder base for two hours either side of low tide. Retreat difficult. (Smart to check from Mowing Word where to set the ab ropes.) From Stackpole Head car park take the coastal path. Abseil in, or for the determined, take the LH (facing sea) of two ridges in the bay between Stackpole Head and Mowing Word.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012), Pembroke (2009),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 WEST FACE  
2The CoolerHS 4b *7
3Dolphin PodE2 5b **6
4Salty DogE3 5c **7
5The WhalerE2 5b **10
6ImmortalityE5 6b *** 
7neptuneHVS 5a *8
8Always the SunE7 6c ***1
9Cruise to HellE5 6b **1
10Heaven's DoorE3 5c ***38
11The Big SleepE3 6a * 
12Second ShadowE5 6a *1
13Iron MaidenE4 6a **3
14SwordfishE3 5c ***36
15HammerheadE5 6a ** 
16Silver ShadowE2 5b ***37
17Break of DawnE5 6b ** 
18Oranges and LemonsE6 6c *** 
19Utter AnarchyE6 6c ***1
20TramlinesE1 5b *3
21PuritanE2 5c ***24
22ConsolationE1 5b *4
23Mrs Pearson's Fine Damson JamE3 5c * 
24HoneypotE5 6b ** 
25CavalierE2 5b 1
26ParliamentarianE3 6a *1
27Red OctoberE3 5b **2
28CondorE3 5c *3
29Stackpole GroovesHVS 5a **11
30Stackpole Grooves DirectE1 5b **1
31Plane SailingE3 5c ***3
32Male bonding.E3 5c ***2
 SOUTH FACE  
34Adam AdamantE5 6b *** 
35Vladimir Goes to HavanaE4 6a ***2
36Stackpole cracksE1 5a *10
 EAST FACE  
38Leap FrogE3 5c *2
39Munching MolluscsE1 5b *1
 SHAKEHOLE BAY  
41Valentine AwayE3 5c 1
42Gargoyle Groove *VS 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ed morris

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Don't abseil into Swordfish as Rockfax tell you to - you end up in the sea!
submariner - 30/Sep/13
Go and do Silver Shadow as the sun is sinking and catching the wall full-on. A truly superb experience. Careful with the black slippery rock at the beginning; it gets a lot better after a few feet. When I did it one of my friends dropped his shoe in the sea prior to seconding. He had to untie and go swimming to get it. Shortly afterwards a VAST seal swam into the bay, attracted by the splashing around. I'm glad Bruno had got out by then!
Tom Chamberlain - 16/Sep/03