Stackpole Head

Climbs 140 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces all

Crag features
Some of the most classic routes in Pembroke here from the E2-E6 range. Fairly tidal. Routes up to 140ft. Some great traverses along and around the arches. A very esoteric east face once you have got used to the adventurous nature of this cliff.

Access notes
Bird ban Feb 1 - July 31.

Tidal: access to the boulder base for two hours either side of low tide. Retreat difficult. (Smart to check from Mowing Word where to set the ab ropes.)

From Stackpole Head car park take the coastal path. Abseil in, or for the determined, take the LH (facing sea) of two ridges in the bay between Stackpole Head and Mowing Word.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012), Pembroke (2009),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2The CoolerHS 4b *7
3Dolphin PodE2 5b **3
4Salty DogE3 5c **7
5The WhalerE2 5b **10
6neptuneHVS 5a *8
7Always the SunE7 6c ***1
8Cruise to HellE5 6b ** 
9Heaven's DoorE3 5c ***37
10The Big SleepE3 6a * 
11Second ShadowE5 6a *1
12Iron MaidenE4 6a **3
13SwordfishE3 5c ***35
14HammerheadE5 6a ** 
15Silver ShadowE2 5b ***37
16Utter AnarchyE6 6c ***1
17TramlinesE1 5b *3
18PuritanE2 5c ***23
19ConsolationE1 5b *4
20CavalierE2 5b 1
21ParliamentarianE3 6a *1
22Red OctoberE3 5b **2
23CondorE3 5c *3
24Stackpole GroovesHVS 5a **11
25Stackpole Grooves DirectE1 5b **1
26Plane SailingE3 5c ***3
27Male bonding.E3 5c ***2
29Vladimir Goes to HavanaE4 6a ***2
30Stackpole cracksE1 5a *10
32Leap FrogE3 5c *2
33Munching MolluscsE1 5b *1
35Valentine AwayE3 5c 1
37ImmortalityE5 6b *** 
38Break of DawnE5 6b ** 
39Oranges and LemonsE6 6c *** 
40Mrs Pearson's Fine Damson JamE3 5c * 
41HoneypotE5 6b ** 
42Adam AdamantE5 6b *** 
43Gargoyle Groove *VS 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ed morris

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Don't abseil into Swordfish as Rockfax tell you to - you end up in the sea!
submariner - 30/Sep/13
Go and do Silver Shadow as the sun is sinking and catching the wall full-on. A truly superb experience. Careful with the black slippery rock at the beginning; it gets a lot better after a few feet. When I did it one of my friends dropped his shoe in the sea prior to seconding. He had to untie and go swimming to get it. Shortly afterwards a VAST seal swam into the bay, attracted by the splashing around. I'm glad Bruno had got out by then!
Tom Chamberlain - 16/Sep/03