Climbs 50
Rocktype Limestone

Faces SE

DWS at lydstep © grey wolf

Crag features

Interesting single- and multi-pitch routes up to 210ft on a cliff at the SE corner of Lydstep Head, which can be hard to see except from the sea. The majority of the routes are in fact at E1/2 or below, with two E5s.

Approach notes

Tidal: accessible at low- to half-tide. Abseil approach recommended for most routes.

From the Lydstep car park, follow the coastal path E to the far SE corner of the coast, where the coastal path should meet it from the N. (Walking via the N route takes you past the quarries and Lydstep Pinnacle but is no faster.)

Guidebooks

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Lindas Pillar
-
E2 5c 1
2I'm Spartacus
-
M *1
3I'm Spartacus 2
-
E6 6b *1
4Titus Oats
-
HVS 5a 3
5Atlantic ChimneyVS 4b 4
6The ArcVD 9
7Beat Surrender
-
E5 6a/b ***11
8Arcady
-
HVS 5a 1
9The RipE2 5b **5
10AmazonE3 5c 11
11Colonel MustardE3 5c *3
12The Drop Zone
-
E1 5a 2
13Summer ThunderE3 5c *2
14Lydstep Point MazeHVS 5a 6
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 
16Dynamite
-
6b S1 **1
17Scotch on the Rocks
-
7a S1 ** 
18Captain Caveman
-
6c+ S1 ***1
19Isostacy
-
7b S2 ** 
20Vamos
-
6a S2 * 
21Sea Leg
-
6a+ S2 * 
22Nobody's Hero
-
6a+ S1 * 
23The Medic
-
5c S1 * 
24Reef Walker
-
7a S3 *** 
25Patch's Shorts
-
4a * 
26Restraint of Beasts
-
6b+ S1 ** 
27Cool Man Chu
-
6a+ S0 * 
28Planktonitis
-
5c S0 * 
29Big Screen
-
4c S0 * 
30Way Down
-
3 S0 * 
31Reso's Nose
-
5a S2 * 
32Cocko
-
5a S0  
33Crill Wars
-
4c * 
34Extras
-
6a+ S2  
35Cold Turkey
-
6a+ S1 ** 
36Sex-pack on the Beach
-
5c S0 * 
37Offshore Drift
-
6a+ S0 ** 
38Cellar Deck
-
6a+ S0 ** 
39Wreck of the Hesperus
-
6c S1 ** 
40Flotsam
-
6b+ S1  
41Jetsam
-
6a S1 * 
42Aperitif
-
6a S1  
43Calm
-
5c S2 * 
44Charm
-
5a S1 * 
45Topology
-
7a S1 *** 
46Strangeness
-
6c S0 ** 
47Fancy Claps
-
7a+ S1 ** 
48Perfect Pitch
-
6a+ S1 ***1
49Life
-
6a+ S2 ** 
50Lydstep TraverseVS s1 f5+ *** 
51Mex the FlexE5 6b 2

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