Climbs 52
Rocktype Limestone

Faces SE

DWS at lydstep © grey wolf

Crag features

Interesting single- and multi-pitch routes up to 210ft on a cliff at the SE corner of Lydstep Head, which can be hard to see except from the sea. The majority of the routes are in fact at E1/2 or below, with two E5s.

Approach notes

Tidal: accessible at low- to half-tide. Abseil approach recommended for most routes.

From the Lydstep car park, follow the coastal path E to the far SE corner of the coast, where the coastal path should meet it from the N. (Walking via the N route takes you past the quarries and Lydstep Pinnacle but is no faster.)


Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Lindas Pillar
E2 5c 1
2I'm Spartacus
M *1
3I'm Spartacus 2
E6 6b *1
4Titus Oats
HVS 5a 3
5Atlantic ChimneyVS 4b 4
6The ArcVD 9
7Beat Surrender
E5 6a/b ***11
HVS 5a 1
9The RipE2 5b **6
10AmazonE3 5c 13
11Colonel MustardE3 5c *4
12The Drop Zone
E1 5a 2
13Summer ThunderE3 5c *2
14Lydstep Point MazeHVS 5a 9
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 
6b S1 **3
17Scotch on the Rocks
7a S1 ** 
18Captain Caveman
6c+ S1 ***1
7b S2 ** 
6a S2 * 
21Sea Leg
6a+ S2 * 
22Nobody's Hero
6a+ S1 *1
23The Medic
5c S1 * 
24Reef Walker
7a S3 ***1
25Patch's Shorts
4a * 
26Restraint of Beasts
6b+ S1 ** 
27Cool Man Chu
6a+ S0 * 
5c S0 *1
29Big Screen
4c S0 *1
30Way Down
3 S0 *1
31Reso's Nose
5a S2 * 
5a S0  
33Crill Wars
4c * 
6a+ S2  
35Cold Turkey
6a+ S1 ** 
36Sex-pack on the Beach
5c S0 * 
37Offshore Drift
6a+ S0 ** 
38Cellar Deck
6a+ S0 ** 
39Wreck of the Hesperus
6c S1 ** 
6b+ S1  
6a S1 * 
6a S1  
5c S2 * 
5a S1 * 
7a S1 *** 
6c S0 ** 
47Fancy Claps
7a+ S1 ** 
48Perfect Pitch
6a+ S1 ***1
6a+ S2 ** 
50Lydstep TraverseVS s1 f5+ *** 
51Mex the FlexE5 6b 2
52Hairy Ball Theorem *7b+ *** 
53Piece and Quiet *7b+ ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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