Natasha Smith on the classic Abracadabra E2 5b** © Emma Alsford
Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 210ft. Lower pitches generally offer good steep climbs on solid rock; the upper pitches above the half-height ledge often have loose rock - maybe best avoided. Climbing well distributed among the grades. Some excellent harder routes (quite tidal) on the east face - try Dolomite Sprint (E3) and Abracadabra(E2).
Tidal:most routes only accessible at low- to half-tide. Abseil or scramble in, depending on which part of the zawn you're accessing.
From the Forbidden Head car park, head E for a few minutes. It lies just beyond Frontier Zawn, which cuts in to the coastal path.
Alternatively, from the Lydstep car park (open in summer), take the S car park exit and follow the path W. (The two are about equidistant.)
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