Forbidden Head

Climbs 46 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 5m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Routes up to 120ft, though the best ones are at E4 and above (Hungary Heart E5 6b, Gorak E5 6b). Good compact rock.

Access notes
Tidal: accessible at half to low tide by traversing along the cliff base. Routes on the R side can be reached by abseil to an almost non-tidal ramp. At the W (right looking to sea) edge, scramble down an easy ridge at the far W edge.

From the car park above the cliff walk to the low headland: takes a couple of minutes.

Guidebooks
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Arms RaceE1 5a 3
2TomahawkE1 5b *3
3SidewinderE3 5c 3
4FirestreakE3 5c **3
5The CruiseE2 5b 1
6SAMHVS 4c 1
7DronophobeHVS 5b 1
8Stop That PigeonVS 5a 1
9SkyboltE3 5c  
10Left in DoubtE5 6b **1
11Right UnsureE5 6b **1
12BloodhoundE2 5c 1
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ERU

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The top half of the area containing Sidewinder and Firestreak has gone. All that remains of these two routes is a ledge where the wide break used to be
Tubs - 09/Apr/14
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These details were last updated on 18/Dec/2012
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