Forbidden Head

Climbs 46 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 5m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Routes up to 120ft, though the best ones are at E4 and above (Hungary Heart E5 6b, Gorak E5 6b). Good compact rock.

Access notes
Tidal: accessible at half to low tide by traversing along the cliff base. Routes on the R side can be reached by abseil to an almost non-tidal ramp. At the W (right looking to sea) edge, scramble down an easy ridge at the far W edge.

From the car park above the cliff walk to the low headland: takes a couple of minutes.

Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012),
Out of print: Pembroke (part two) (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Arms RaceE1 5a 3
2TomahawkE1 5b *3
3SidewinderE3 5c 3
4FirestreakE3 5c **3
5The CruiseE2 5b 1
6SAMHVS 4c 1
7DronophobeHVS 5b 1
8Stop That PigeonVS 5a 1
9SkyboltE3 5c  
10Left in DoubtE5 6b **1
11Right UnsureE5 6b **1
12BloodhoundE2 5c 1
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The top half of the area containing Sidewinder and Firestreak has gone. All that remains of these two routes is a ledge where the wide break used to be
Tubs - 09/Apr/14