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Moel y Gest QuarryGwynedd, WALES
Climbs 36 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces N
Although north west facing the walls can get plenty of summer sunshine but it can be very cold in a wintry wind .
Most of the sport routes have double bolt lower offs and are generally on excellent rock with good friction and sound holds . The top of many of these big walls have monstrous stacked blocks and luckily the sport routes stop far short of these .
It has been reported that the Dr Faustus wall routes ( 3 ) remain dry in light rain.
PROTECT CHOUGHS AND PEREGRINES
In july 2012 signs have appeared below the sport routes saying climbing strictly forbidden but their origin is a mystery as the quarry owners have no knowledge of these signs. BMC Elfyn Jones is investigating, please contact him if you have further information.
Lies high on Moel y Gest, on the opposite side of the road from Craig y Castell, about 0.5mi along the Criccieth Rd from Porthmadog.
From the cemetery go straight up a ramp to the base of the cliff.
A good and well travelled alternative is to follow the signed path from the layby just west of the supermarkets and outdoor shop complex on the Porthmadog criccieth road . The path crosses a stile splits , take the left hand fork and continue up through the woods towards the summit of the hill . After the path crosses a perpetually wet patch there is a small cairn on the left marking the track on the right that contours westwards to the quarry . Skip down the track just short of the quary to find an easy entry , approx 15-20 minutes .
Climbs at this crag
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