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Moel y Gest QuarryGwynedd, WALES
Climbs 36 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces N
Although north west facing the walls can get plenty of summer sunshine but it can be very cold in a wintry wind .
Most of the sport routes have double bolt lower offs and are generally on excellent rock with good friction and sound holds . The top of many of these big walls have monstrous stacked blocks and luckily the sport routes stop far short of these .
It has been reported that the Dr Faustus wall routes ( 3 ) remain dry in light rain.
Climbs at this crag
BIRD BAN RUNS FROM MARCH 1ST TO END JUNE
PROTECT CHOUGHS AND PEREGRINES
In july 2012 signs have appeared below the sport routes saying climbing strictly forbidden but their origin is a mystery as the quarry owners have no knowledge of these signs. BMC Elfyn Jones is investigating, please contact him if you have further information.
Lies high on Moel y Gest, on the opposite side of the road from Craig y Castell, about 0.5mi along the Criccieth Rd from Porthmadog.
From the cemetery go straight up a ramp to the base of the cliff.
A good and well travelled alternative is to follow the signed path from the layby just west of the supermarkets and outdoor shop complex on the Porthmadog criccieth road . The path crosses a stile splits , take the left hand fork and continue up through the woods towards the summit of the hill . After the path crosses a perpetually wet patch there is a small cairn on the left marking the track on the right that contours westwards to the quarry . Skip down the track just short of the quary to find an easy entry , approx 15-20 minutes .