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These details were last updated on 03/Aug/2012

Moel y Gest Quarry

Gwynedd, WALES

Climbs 36 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
This granite quarry was developed in the 1960ies, but due to loose rock was ignored until recently. The quarry is nicely seperated into three bays, a large eastern bay, a small central bay and a large western bay. A number of new boulder problems have been discovered in the right hand bay, while a small number of new sports routes (17) have been developed in all three bays.

Although north west facing the walls can get plenty of summer sunshine but it can be very cold in a wintry wind .

Most of the sport routes have double bolt lower offs and are generally on excellent rock with good friction and sound holds . The top of many of these big walls have monstrous stacked blocks and luckily the sport routes stop far short of these .

It has been reported that the Dr Faustus wall routes ( 3 ) remain dry in light rain.

Access notes


In july 2012 signs have appeared below the sport routes saying climbing strictly forbidden but their origin is a mystery as the quarry owners have no knowledge of these signs. BMC Elfyn Jones is investigating, please contact him if you have further information.

Lies high on Moel y Gest, on the opposite side of the road from Craig y Castell, about 0.5mi along the Criccieth Rd from Porthmadog.

From the cemetery go straight up a ramp to the base of the cliff.

A good and well travelled alternative is to follow the signed path from the layby just west of the supermarkets and outdoor shop complex on the Porthmadog criccieth road . The path crosses a stile splits , take the left hand fork and continue up through the woods towards the summit of the hill . After the path crosses a perpetually wet patch there is a small cairn on the left marking the track on the right that contours westwards to the quarry . Skip down the track just short of the quary to find an easy entry , approx 15-20 minutes .
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

4.4mm rain
17 °C
14 kph

0.8mm rain
15 °C
21 kph

0.1mm rain
13 °C
13 kph

0.0mm rain
14 °C
10 kph

4.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
21 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: SnowdoniaMet Office: Snowdonia

Tremadog (2010), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Room for GlueV6 2
2Beatitude KissV11 ***3
3The Sea of BlocksV3 **2
4Drag RacerV11 *5
5Pinch AreteV4 *1
6MadogV3 *1
7Dead Man's CurveV7 ***1
8Problem 8V3 *1
9Problem 9V3 2
10Problem 10V1 *1
11Pinball WizardV6 *** 
12The Seven PillarsV7 ** 
13Cruser WeightV9 ***7
14Problem 14V3 2
15Problem 15V4 2
16Chummer's WallV7 ***1
17Dr Faustus7a **1
18Kiss of the Yogini6c+ *1
 Climb nameGradex
19Fat groove Slim6b *3
20Tantric Skull Feeder6c+ **2
21Goi Ashmore Project2  
22Intersex Olympics6c 1
23Flaskdance6a+ * 
24Necroscopic Invaders6a *1
25Love Dolls Never Die6b+ **2
26Spandexterity7a * 
27Feets don't fail me now6b+ *3
28The Jain Path6b  
29Nirvana6b+ * 
30Planet Gest6a *4
31Call Me Jim6b+ *1
32Freak on a Leash6c *1
33Live by the Sword6a *3
34Die by the Sword6b *2
35Mephistopheles7a *1
36Persephone6b+ * 
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Glyn

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NOTE BIRD BAN for all of MARCH APRIL MAY AND JUNE climbers have been ignoring this and there is a real risk we will lose access
tat - 14/Jun/11

Boulders on far right hand side of quarry have recently been developed. Downloadable topo from North Wales Bouldering: News article:
Glyn - 14/Sep/09