This granite quarry was developed in the 1960ies, but due to loose rock was ignored until recently. The quarry is nicely seperated into three bays, a large eastern bay, a small central bay and a large western bay. A number of new boulder problems have been discovered in the right hand bay, while a small number of new sports routes (17) have been developed in all three bays.
Although north west facing the walls can get plenty of summer sunshine but it can be very cold in a wintry wind .
Most of the sport routes have double bolt lower offs and are generally on excellent rock with good friction and sound holds . The top of many of these big walls have monstrous stacked blocks and luckily the sport routes stop far short of these .
It has been reported that the Dr Faustus wall routes ( 3 ) remain dry in light rain.
BIRD BAN RUNS FROM MARCH 1ST TO END JUNE
PROTECT CHOUGHS AND PEREGRINES
In july 2012 signs have appeared below the sport routes saying climbing strictly forbidden but their origin is a mystery as the quarry owners have no knowledge of these signs. BMC Elfyn Jones is investigating, please contact him if you have further information.
Lies high on Moel y Gest, on the opposite side of the road from Craig y Castell, about 0.5mi along the Criccieth Rd from Porthmadog.
From the cemetery go straight up a ramp to the base of the cliff.
A good and well travelled alternative is to follow the signed path from the layby just west of the supermarkets and outdoor shop complex on the Porthmadog criccieth road . The path crosses a stile splits , take the left hand fork and continue up through the woods towards the summit of the hill . After the path crosses a perpetually wet patch there is a small cairn on the left marking the track on the right that contours westwards to the quarry . Skip down the track just short of the quary to find an easy entry , approx 15-20 minutes .
|1||Room for Glue||V6||2|
|2||Beatitude Kiss||V11 ***||3|
|3||The Sea of Blocks||V3 **||2|
|4||Drag Racer||V11 *||5|
|5||Pinch Arete||V4 *||1|
|7||Dead Man's Curve||V7 ***||1|
|8||Problem 8||V3 *||1|
|10||Problem 10||V1 *||1|
|11||Pinball Wizard||V6 ***|
|12||The Seven Pillars||V7 **||1|
|13||Cruser Weight||V9 ***||8|
|16||Chummer's Wall||V7 ***||1|
|17||Dr Faustus||7a **||1|
|18||Kiss of the Yogini||6c+ *||1|
|19||Fat groove Slim||6b *||3|
|20||Tantric Skull Feeder||6c+ **||2|
|21||Goi Ashmore Project||2|
|24||Necroscopic Invaders||6a *||1|
|25||Love Dolls Never Die||6b+ **||2|
|27||Feets don't fail me now||6b+ *||3|
|28||The Jain Path||6b|
|30||Planet Gest||6a *||4|
|31||Call Me Jim||6b+ *||1|
|32||Freak on a Leash||6c *||1|
|33||Live by the Sword||6a *||3|
|34||Die by the Sword||6b *||2|
|37||Moel y Gest *||M||1|
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|NOTE BIRD BAN for all of MARCH APRIL MAY AND JUNE
climbers have been ignoring this and there is a real risk we will lose access|
tat - 14/Jun/11
|Boulders on far right hand side of quarry have recently been developed. Downloadable topo from North Wales Bouldering:
News article: http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=411|
Glyn - 14/Sep/09