Climbs 60
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces SW

A perfect view of the Llyn Peninsula after hard days climbing © David Maddison

Crag features

The most westerly of the Tremadog cliffs Lower parts of buttresses can be very vegetated but the normal approach is to abseil in from the top. The routes on the right hand side of the crag have recently (Aug 2010) been cleaned and all the climbs from Klondyke Meic rightward are completly free of vegetation.

Approach notes

From Penmorfa take the old road signposted Yr Hen Lon. After 400 meters turn right into the entrance to Tyddyn Deucwm Isaf farm. Park on left just beyond the cattle grid. Do not park by the gate opposite the cattle grid or drive up to the farmhouse.
Follow the courtesy footpath uphill past the farmhouse and the fields beyond. Follow a path up rightwards through the bracken to reach the large boulder scree at a small walled enclosure. An easy scramble through the scree gets you to the foot of Javelin Buttress

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Tremadog (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)
25 May 2011 Met some 2 guys descending from Gesail today - they had parked right next to the actual farm, not on the left, just after the gateway to the farm. Said correct access info was not in their guide.... their dog was also running free & tried to bite my partner, ignoring the owner. Please do be careful guys or we will lose access to more cliffs on private land.
Klimb - 25/May/11
a nice place to climb,bramble buttress v.diff,touch and go vs,javelin hvs 5a,4c the short 5a pitch likes small wires worth a look.enjoy cheers simon
75brynrheidol - 05/Mar/07
Some bouldering below the main crag, especially in the grassy field. The boulders higher up in the scree field look ok from a dsitance but the bracken is full of ankle twisting rocks and the landings are terrible. Not worth a special trip for the bouldering.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1TyroVD 1
2Mentor
-
HVS 5a 1
3CadwVS 4c *8
4Perilous Journey
-
E2 4b,5c  
5Forbidden FlightE4 6b * 
6The Chateau
-
VS 4b,4c 30
7The Castle
-
VS 4c 23
8AstonallVS 4c *8
9Paradise Lost
-
VS  
10Bramble ButtressVD **621
11The Jewel in the Crown
-
E1 5b 7
12Non Stop
-
E3 6a 2
13ClutchVS 4c **113
14PlumblineVS 4c **64
15Sheerline
-
HS 4c *31
16Backstairs
-
VD 1
17Wow FactorE4 6b * 
18CaravansoreyeMVS 4c *3
19Dido's DilemmaE2 5c * 
20Ace High
-
E2 5b *6
21Food for Thought
-
E2 5c  
22Assegai
-
VS 4c 1
23JavelinHVS 5a *60
24MusclesE1 5b **4
25Princess
-
VS 4b *65
26Dryad
-
VD  
27Acropolis
-
HS *24
28Acropolis Direct finish
-
VS 4c 1
29SphincterVS 11
30TachyphouseE1 5b 2
31Wild Horses
-
E2 5b *2
32Turnterror
-
HVS 5a  
33Tumbledown Variation
-
HVS 5a 1
34Jumble Tumble
-
HVS 5a 1
35Golfball
-
E1 5b  
36Klondyke MeicVS 4c 5
37Foul Touch
-
VS 4c 4
38Ek BorgeHVS 1
39Touch UpE1 5b **18
40Avalon
-
VS 4c 15
41Touch and Go
-
VS 4c *85
42ToucheHVS 5a *6
43Right Touch
-
VS 4c 4
44Soft Touch
-
E1 5b 17
45Touched in the HeadE1 5a *6
46Touchstone
-
HVS 5a *5
47The KittenE1 5b * 
48OvercomeVS 4c *7
49PukiS 6
50Hot House
-
VS 4c 3
51Brilliant Corners.E1 5b *2
52Round Midnight
-
VS 4c 3
53Ah Um
-
E2 5b * 
54Be Bop
-
HS 4b 1
55El Zorro
-
HS 4b 6
56Carlwm Corner
-
VS  
57The Fox
-
VD  
58Carlwm AreteE3 5c 1
59Biolet
-
S  
60The Fly
-
VD  

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