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These details were last updated on 01/Jun/2011

Craig y Gesail (Tremadog)

Gwynedd, WALES

Climbs 58 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
The most westerly of the Tremadog cliffs Lower parts of buttresses can be very vegetated but the normal approach is to abseil in from the top. The routes on the right hand side of the crag have recently (Aug 2010) been cleaned and all the climbs from Klondyke Meic rightward are completly free of vegetation.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Snowdonia – Met Office: Snowdonia

Guidebooks
Tremadog (2010), North Wales Rock (2006), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1MentorHVS 5a 1
2CadwVS 4c *2
3Perilous JourneyE2 4b,5c  
4Forbidden FlightE4 6b * 
5The ChateauVS 4b,4c 14
6The CastleVS 4c 12
7AstonallVS 4c *3
8Paradise LostVS  
9Bramble ButtressVD *374
10The Jewel in the CrownE1 5b 6
11Non StopE3 6a 1
12ClutchVS 4c **67
13PlumblineVS 4c 37
14SheerlineHS 4c *16
15BackstairsVD 1
16Wow FactorE4 6b * 
17CaravansoreyeMVS 4c *1
18Dido's DilemmaE2 5c * 
19Ace HighE2 5b *4
20Food for ThoughtE2 5c  
21AssegaiVS 4c 1
22JavelinHVS 5a *31
23MusclesE1 5b **3
24PrincessVS 4b *43
25DryadVD  
26AcropolisHS *15
27Acropolis Direct finishVS 4c  
28SphincterVS 3
29TachyphouseE1 5b 1
 Climb nameGradex
30Wild HorsesE2 5b * 
31TurnterrorHVS 5a  
32Tumbledown VariationHVS 5a 1
33Jumble TumbleHVS 5a 1
34GolfballE1 5b  
35Klondyke MeicVS 4c 4
36Foul TouchVS 4c 1
37Touch UpE1 5b **11
38AvalonVS 4c 6
39Touch and GoVS 4c *43
40ToucheHVS 5a *2
41Right TouchVS 4c 1
42Soft TouchE1 5b 9
43Touched in the HeadE1 5a *4
44TouchstoneHVS 5a *2
45The KittenE1 5b * 
46OvercomeVS 4c *5
47PukiS 1
48Hot HouseVS 4c  
49Brilliant Corners.E1 5b *2
50Round MidnightVS 4c 3
51Ah UmE2 5b * 
52Be BopHS 4b  
53El ZorroHS 4b 3
54Carlwm CornerVS  
55The FoxVD  
56Carlwm AreteE3 5c  
57BioletS  
58The FlyVD  
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Access notes
From Penmorfa take the old road signposted Yr Hen Lon. After 400 meters turn right into the entrance to Tyddyn Deucwm Isaf farm. Park on left just beyond the cattle grid. Do not park by the gate opposite the cattle grid or drive up to the farmhouse.

Follow the courtesy footpath uphill past the farmhouse and the fields beyond. Follow a path up rightwards through the bracken to reach the large boulder scree at a small walled enclosure. An easy scramble through the scree gets you to the foot of Javelin Buttress

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Pencarth ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
25 May 2011 Met some 2 guys descending from Gesail today - they had parked right next to the actual farm, not on the left, just after the gateway to the farm. Said correct access info was not in their guide.... their dog was also running free & tried to bite my partner, ignoring the owner. Please do be careful guys or we will lose access to more cliffs on private land.
Klimb ? - 25/May/11

a nice place to climb,bramble buttress v.diff,touch and go vs,javelin hvs 5a,4c the short 5a pitch likes small wires worth a look.enjoy cheers simon
75brynrheidol - 05/Mar/07

Some bouldering below the main crag, especially in the grassy field. The boulders higher up in the scree field look ok from a dsitance but the bracken is full of ankle twisting rocks and the landings are terrible. Not worth a special trip for the bouldering.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06