Craig y Gesail (Tremadog)

Climbs 59 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
The most westerly of the Tremadog cliffs Lower parts of buttresses can be very vegetated but the normal approach is to abseil in from the top. The routes on the right hand side of the crag have recently (Aug 2010) been cleaned and all the climbs from Klondyke Meic rightward are completly free of vegetation.

Access notes
From Penmorfa take the old road signposted Yr Hen Lon. After 400 meters turn right into the entrance to Tyddyn Deucwm Isaf farm. Park on left just beyond the cattle grid. Do not park by the gate opposite the cattle grid or drive up to the farmhouse.

Follow the courtesy footpath uphill past the farmhouse and the fields beyond. Follow a path up rightwards through the bracken to reach the large boulder scree at a small walled enclosure. An easy scramble through the scree gets you to the foot of Javelin Buttress

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), Tremadog (2010), North Wales Rock (2006), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1TyroVD
2MentorHVS 5a
3CadwVS 4c *
4Perilous JourneyE2 4b,5c
5Forbidden FlightE4 6b *
6The ChateauVS 4b,4c
7The CastleVS 4c
8AstonallVS 4c *
9Paradise LostVS
10Bramble ButtressVD *
11The Jewel in the CrownE1 5b
12Non StopE3 6a
13ClutchVS 4c **
14PlumblineVS 4c
15SheerlineHS 4c *
16BackstairsVD
17Wow FactorE4 6b *
18CaravansoreyeMVS 4c *
19Dido's DilemmaE2 5c *
20Ace HighE2 5b *
21Food for ThoughtE2 5c
22AssegaiVS 4c
23JavelinHVS 5a *
24MusclesE1 5b **
25PrincessVS 4b *
26DryadVD
27AcropolisHS *
28Acropolis Direct finishVS 4c
29SphincterVS
30TachyphouseE1 5b
31Wild HorsesE2 5b *
32TurnterrorHVS 5a
33Tumbledown VariationHVS 5a
34Jumble TumbleHVS 5a
35GolfballE1 5b
36Klondyke MeicVS 4c
37Foul TouchVS 4c
38Touch UpE1 5b **
39AvalonVS 4c
40Touch and GoVS 4c *
41ToucheHVS 5a *
42Right TouchVS 4c
43Soft TouchE1 5b
44Touched in the HeadE1 5a *
45TouchstoneHVS 5a *
46The KittenE1 5b *
47OvercomeVS 4c *
48PukiS
49Hot HouseVS 4c
50Brilliant Corners.E1 5b *
51Round MidnightVS 4c
52Ah UmE2 5b *
53Be BopHS 4b
54El ZorroHS 4b
55Carlwm CornerVS
56The FoxVD
57Carlwm AreteE3 5c
58BioletS
59The FlyVD
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
25 May 2011 Met some 2 guys descending from Gesail today - they had parked right next to the actual farm, not on the left, just after the gateway to the farm. Said correct access info was not in their guide.... their dog was also running free & tried to bite my partner, ignoring the owner. Please do be careful guys or we will lose access to more cliffs on private land.
Klimb - 25/May/11
a nice place to climb,bramble buttress v.diff,touch and go vs,javelin hvs 5a,4c the short 5a pitch likes small wires worth a look.enjoy cheers simon
75brynrheidol - 05/Mar/07
Some bouldering below the main crag, especially in the grassy field. The boulders higher up in the scree field look ok from a dsitance but the bracken is full of ankle twisting rocks and the landings are terrible. Not worth a special trip for the bouldering.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06