Craig y Gesail (Tremadog)

Climbs 60 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 200m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features

The most westerly of the Tremadog cliffs Lower parts of buttresses can be very vegetated but the normal approach is to abseil in from the top. The routes on the right hand side of the crag have recently (Aug 2010) been cleaned and all the climbs from Klondyke Meic rightward are completly free of vegetation.

Approach notes

From Penmorfa take the old road signposted Yr Hen Lon. After 400 meters turn right into the entrance to Tyddyn Deucwm Isaf farm. Park on left just beyond the cattle grid. Do not park by the gate opposite the cattle grid or drive up to the farmhouse.
Follow the courtesy footpath uphill past the farmhouse and the fields beyond. Follow a path up rightwards through the bracken to reach the large boulder scree at a small walled enclosure. An easy scramble through the scree gets you to the foot of Javelin Buttress

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

North Wales Climbs (2013), Tremadog (2010), North Wales Rock (2006), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1TyroVD 1
2MentorHVS 5a 1
3CadwVS 4c *7
4Perilous JourneyE2 4b,5c  
5Forbidden FlightE4 6b * 
6The ChateauVS 4b,4c 26
7The CastleVS 4c 20
8AstonallVS 4c *7
9Paradise LostVS  
10Bramble ButtressVD **520
11The Jewel in the CrownE1 5b 7
12Non StopE3 6a 2
13ClutchVS 4c **104
14PlumblineVS 4c **57
15SheerlineHS 4c *27
16BackstairsVD 1
17Wow FactorE4 6b * 
18CaravansoreyeMVS 4c *2
19Dido's DilemmaE2 5c * 
20Ace HighE2 5b *6
21Food for ThoughtE2 5c  
22AssegaiVS 4c 1
23JavelinHVS 5a *49
24MusclesE1 5b **4
25PrincessVS 4b *63
27AcropolisHS *22
28Acropolis Direct finishVS 4c 1
29SphincterVS 10
30TachyphouseE1 5b 2
31Wild HorsesE2 5b *1
32TurnterrorHVS 5a  
33Tumbledown VariationHVS 5a 1
34Jumble TumbleHVS 5a 1
35GolfballE1 5b  
36Klondyke MeicVS 4c 5
37Foul TouchVS 4c 4
38Ek BorgeHVS 1
39Touch UpE1 5b **15
40AvalonVS 4c 13
41Touch and GoVS 4c *67
42ToucheHVS 5a *6
43Right TouchVS 4c 4
44Soft TouchE1 5b 13
45Touched in the HeadE1 5a *5
46TouchstoneHVS 5a *4
47The KittenE1 5b * 
48OvercomeVS 4c *6
49PukiS 5
50Hot HouseVS 4c 2
51Brilliant Corners.E1 5b *2
52Round MidnightVS 4c 3
53Ah UmE2 5b * 
54Be BopHS 4b 1
55El ZorroHS 4b 6
56Carlwm CornerVS  
57The FoxVD  
58Carlwm AreteE3 5c 1
60The FlyVD  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
25 May 2011 Met some 2 guys descending from Gesail today - they had parked right next to the actual farm, not on the left, just after the gateway to the farm. Said correct access info was not in their guide.... their dog was also running free & tried to bite my partner, ignoring the owner. Please do be careful guys or we will lose access to more cliffs on private land.
Klimb - 25/May/11
a nice place to climb,bramble buttress v.diff,touch and go vs,javelin hvs 5a,4c the short 5a pitch likes small wires worth a look.enjoy cheers simon
75brynrheidol - 05/Mar/07
Some bouldering below the main crag, especially in the grassy field. The boulders higher up in the scree field look ok from a dsitance but the bracken is full of ankle twisting rocks and the landings are terrible. Not worth a special trip for the bouldering.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06