Sketchy guidebook descriptions but it is in there.
The main crag is visible from the road with the slabs of 'tiger feet' and 'elephant crawl' on the left, a central massive detached pinnacle with the climactic route 'inspiration' and then the overhanging arete of 'sickle cell' detached off to the right.
Follow the miner's track around the left side of the crag and a second crag comes into view, overhanging wildly on the left before breaking up into a series of aretes and corners. The routes here are generally excellent although are a fair bit dirtier than the main crag as they receive a lot less traffic.
There is a reasonable sized car park just off the road and from here there is a well worn, if a bit muddy, footpath and also the start of the miner's track. Spoilt for choice. The crag is on access land.
|4||Cracked Slab left hand||VD||10|
|6||Tiger Feet||VS 4b||16|
|8||Moon Rock||E1 5a||1|
|13||Crads Wall||E3 6a||4|
|15||Interesting Drug||HVS 5a||1|
|16||Unknown Climb||HS 4b *||1|
|17||Sickle Cell||E5 6b **|
|THE MINER'S BUTTRESS|
|19||The Crack||E5 6a *||1|
|20||Toxic Haste||E5 6a **|
|21||Quiet Introductions||VS 4b||4|
|22||Slab Direct||E1 5b||3|
|23||Half Height Fright||VS 4c|
|24||The Shark's Fin||HS 4b ***||4|
|25||Dead Tree Arete||HVS 4c *|
|26||Sweet Summer Evening||E4 6b||4|
|27||Too Many Children||VS 4c||3|
|28||Not Enough Babes||E1 5c||2|
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|This is a good little crag. The friction is superb. check out midwales climbing for a update on some new routes|
SGD - 07/Jun/10