Coire an Dubh Lochain (Beinn a'Bhuird)

Climbs 34 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 1000m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
The main sweep of pink slabs at the back of the corrie is Glaucous Buttress with the steep Bloodhound Buttress lying up and left. These two buttresses are separated by an obvious diagonal shelf - the Main Rake which is a good descent but can be tricky in winter. The other descent is to the south of the corrie, down the spur separating it from Coire na Ciche.

The routes Alpha Gully to B Gully lie to the left of Bloodhound Buttress and the routes from Crow Step Route rightwards climb the short steepening just below the plateau rim up and right of the main Glaucous slabs.

Routes are described left to right

Approach notes
Either from Linn of Quoich or up Glen Slugain from Invercauld. Both are bike-able, the former as far as the shielings under Carn Allt na Beinne (080948) and the latter as far as underneath Coire na Ciche (snow-dependent) if you are prepared to carry your bike past the steepness near the old Slugain lodge.

Parking fee of £2.50 if you use the Invercauld carpark at Keiloch.

Scottish Rock - South (2008),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Alpha GullyI  
2Central RibM  
3Beta GullyII  
4Smooth ButtressIII 4  
5A GullyI  
6Winter RibII  
7B GullyI 1
9Tail-end SlabsIII  
10Tail-end CornerIII  
11Hooker's RouteHVS 4c  
12The ScentHVS 5a  
13The Scent (winter)IX 8  
14The WhipVII 8 1
15Bloodhound ButtressVS 4c  
16Bloodhound Buttress (winter)VI 7  
17BloodsportVI 7  
18Desolation CrackE1 5b  
19Tantalus GullyIII 1
20Sniffer ButtressHVS 5b  
21Main RakeI 4
23Polyplody GrooveS 4a 1
24TearawayVS 4b  
25Come DancingVS 5a  
26The StreakVS 4b 1
27Fever PitchE5 5c  
28Faux PasIII 2
29Crow Step RouteIII  
30The Vital SparkIII  
31Mortal CoilIII  
32Birthday RouteIV 5  
33One Foot In The GrooveII  
34Wrinkled RibII  
35Bigfoot ButtressE1 5b  
36Polypody Grove *IV 4 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Aly

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