Coire an Dubh Lochain (Beinn a'Bhuird)

Climbs 34 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 1000m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
The main sweep of pink slabs at the back of the corrie is Glaucous Buttress with the steep Bloodhound Buttress lying up and left. These two buttresses are separated by an obvious diagonal shelf - the Main Rake which is a good descent but can be tricky in winter. The other descent is to the south of the corrie, down the spur separating it from Coire na Ciche.

The routes Alpha Gully to B Gully lie to the left of Bloodhound Buttress and the routes from Crow Step Route rightwards climb the short steepening just below the plateau rim up and right of the main Glaucous slabs.

Routes are described left to right

Access notes
Either from Linn of Quoich or up Glen Slugain from Invercauld. Both are bike-able, the former as far as the shielings under Carn Allt na Beinne (080948) and the latter as far as underneath Coire na Ciche (snow-dependent) if you are prepared to carry your bike past the steepness near the old Slugain lodge.

Parking fee of £2.50 if you use the Invercauld carpark at Keiloch.

Scottish Rock - South (2008),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Alpha GullyI
2Central RibM
3Beta GullyII
4Smooth ButtressIII 4
5A GullyI
6Winter RibII
7B GullyI
9Tail-end SlabsIII
10Tail-end CornerIII
11Hooker's RouteHVS 4c
12The ScentHVS 5a
13The Scent (winter)IX 8
14The WhipVII 8
15Bloodhound ButtressVS 4c
16Bloodhound Buttress (winter)VI 7
17BloodsportVI 7
18Desolation CrackE1 5b
19Tantalus GullyIII
20Sniffer ButtressHVS 5b
21Main RakeI
23Polyplody GrooveS 4a
24TearawayVS 4b
25Come DancingVS 5a
26The StreakVS 4b
27Fever PitchE5 5c
28Faux PasIII
29Crow Step RouteIII
30The Vital SparkIII
31Mortal CoilIII
32Birthday RouteIV 5
33One Foot In The GrooveII
34Wrinkled RibII
35Bigfoot ButtressE1 5b
36Polypody Grove *IV 4
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Aly

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These details were last updated on 29/Aug/2012

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