Climbs 34
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1000m a.s.l
Faces NE

Ally and Andy watching cloud pour over the Beinn a'Bhuird plateau into Coire an Dubh Lochain © Neil Adams

Crag features

The main sweep of pink slabs at the back of the corrie is Glaucous Buttress with the steep Bloodhound Buttress lying up and left. These two buttresses are separated by an obvious diagonal shelf - the Main Rake which is a good descent but can be tricky in winter. The other descent is to the south of the corrie, down the spur separating it from Coire na Ciche.

The routes Alpha Gully to B Gully lie to the left of Bloodhound Buttress and the routes from Crow Step Route rightwards climb the short steepening just below the plateau rim up and right of the main Glaucous slabs.

Routes are described left to right

Approach notes

Either from Linn of Quoich or up Glen Slugain from Invercauld. Both are bike-able, the former as far as the shielings under Carn Allt na Beinne (080948) and the latter as far as underneath Coire na Ciche (snow-dependent) if you are prepared to carry your bike past the steepness near the old Slugain lodge.

Parking fee of £2.50 if you use the Invercauld carpark at Keiloch.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Alpha Gully
-
I  
2Central Rib
-
M  
3Beta Gully
-
II  
4Smooth Buttress
-
III 4  
5A Gully
-
I  
6Winter Rib
-
II  
7B Gully
-
I 1
 Bloodhound Buttress 
9Tail-end Slabs
-
III  
10Tail-end Corner
-
III  
11Hooker's Route
-
HVS 4c  
12The Scent
-
HVS 5a  
13The Scent (winter)
-
IX 8  
14The Whip
-
VII 8 1
15Bloodhound Buttress
-
VS 4c  
16Bloodhound Buttress (winter)
-
VI 7  
17Bloodsport
-
VI 7  
18Desolation Crack
-
E1 5b  
19Tantalus Gully
-
III 1
20Sniffer Buttress
-
HVS 5b  
21Main Rake
-
I 4
 Glaucous Buttress 
23Polyplody Groove
-
S 4a 1
24Tearaway
-
VS 4b  
25Come Dancing
-
VS 5a  
26The Streak
-
VS 4b 1
27Fever PitchE5 5c  
28Faux Pas
-
III 2
29Crow Step Route
-
III  
30The Vital Spark
-
III  
31Mortal Coil
-
III  
32Birthday Route
-
IV 5  
33One Foot In The Groove
-
II  
34Wrinkled Rib
-
II  
35Bigfoot Buttress
-
E1 5b  
36Polypody Grove *
-
IV 4 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Aly