Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
The crag is located between Deri and Bargoed and is quite awkward to get to. Either drive towards Deri from Bargoed, until the crag can be seen up on the left, park and walk in, or take a shorter but easy-to-get-lost way in. This involves taking the left fork just before Bargoed high street starts to drop down and taking a steep road to a right turn immediately before Heolddy Comprehensive School. Go over the first cattle grid to a second, then turn right. Follow this road for about a mile, until a grassed-over spoil heap can be seen on the right about 200m before a small stream valley with a marked footpath. Park, go over the fence and follow the path leftwards contouring round the hill to arrive at the crag. If on foot, forget it. The landowners (Parc Cwm Darren) have requested that climbers phone them on 01443 875557 when intending to use the crag.
A pair of Peregrine Budgies have nested here and the crag should be avoided from 31st March through to 31st July. Re-direct them to Penrhiwceiber.
|A lot of routes now restored and really worth a visit. The 7a arête Kicking Ass and Taking Names is brilliant.
The Rock is pretty good and most of the routes are reasonably clean. Take a soft brush|
guy xavier percival - 06/Aug/16
|Has this crag been re-bolted? Seen some discussion on SWMC earlier this year and keen to see how good it is.|
KH - 10/Sep/13
|The good news: No telephone call required now.
The bad news: All the bolts have been chopped with an angle grinder.|
alan rosier - 08/Dec/08