Kay Nest

Climbs 74 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Large sandstone outcrop. Loads of ace bouldering at all grades and a few hard projects on the crag.

DON'T WALK UP TRIPSDALE AS IT'S PRIVATE LAND AND YOU'LL NARK THE FARMER.

Access notes
Normal way following the footpath as per Climbonline. Don't go up Tripsdale towards High Crag.

Update: Another way in is by parking at the village hall in chop gate. Cross the road and follow the public right of way which joins the farm track and takes you up the hill and through William Beck Farm. This then turns into a footpath and takes you onto the moor top via 3 gates. Join a bridleway at a T junction as it goes south for 100m, this then turns east and takes you down into Tripsdale on a zig zag track.

Guidebooks

Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MAIN CRAG  
 CAPPED GROOVES  
3Tally HoS  
4Stirrup CupVD  
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
6FlashpointE4 5b *1
7Blaze of GloryE6 6a 1
8TrailblazerE5 5c **1
9Lichen Wall Thin Crack E5 6c  
10Grooved Arete E7 6c  
11Main Face (Aid Route)VS 5a a2  
12The Main Face (Project) E9 7a  
 JUTTING BUTTRESS  
14Stout CrackVS 4c  
15HarbingerE4 6b 2
16Harbinger (Campus Start)f6C+ 1
17Man on the EdgeE5 6b 1
18Scout CrackS  
19SlanterS  
20Vee ChimneyS  
 MAGIC BUTTRESS  
22The Arete (Project) E8 7b  
 MANTLESHELF BUTTRESS  
24Hagg End RidgeS  
25Hagg End Ridge Variation StartS  
 BOULDERING  
 CAPSIZED BLOCK  
28Capsized - Problem 1f5+  
29The Quakerf6C  
30Dick Richief7A+  
 HULL SLAB  
32The Hull Slab - Problem 1f3 3
33The Hull Slab - Problem 2f4 3
34The Hull Slab - Problem 3f4+ 3
35The Hull Slab - Problem 4f6A 3
36The Hull Slab - Problem 5f4 3
37The Hull Slab - Problem 6f6A  
38The Hull Slab - Problem 7f5 2
 THE SHIP STONE  
40The Ship East Face - Problem 1f5 3
41The Ship East Face - Problem 2f5 3
42The Ship East Face - Problem 3f4 6
43The Ship East Face - Problem 4f5+ 1
44The Ship East Face - Problem 5f5 7
45The Ship East Face - Problem 6f6A+ 2
46The Ship East Face - Problem 7f5 5
47The Ship East Face - Problem 8f5 5
48The Ship West Face - Problem 9f4 4
49The Ship West Face - Problem 10f6A 1
50The Ship West Face - Problem 11f5+ 2
51The Ship West Face - Problem 12f6B  
52The Ship West Face - Problem 13f5+ 2
53The Ship West Face - Problem 14f6A+ 1
54The Ship West Face - Problem 15f6A 1
55The Ship West Face - Problem 16f6A 1
 THE CANNON  
57The Cannonf8A  
 RIVER VIEW  
 THE PATIO AREA  
60Elliot Blitzerf5  
61Clifford Worleyf6A  
62Nicky Dimesf6A  
63Wurlitzerf5+  
64Little Gemf6B  
65The Patiof6C  
66BBQf5 3
67Ribsf6B  
68Full Rackf6A+  
 THE NEST  
70Floydf6A  
71Elvisf5 2
72Alabama Whitmanf4+  
73Drexlf6A  
74True Romancef6C 2
 VERMILLION BLOCK  
76Vermillionf7C  
 NEST SLAB  
78Clarence Worleyf7A  
79Clarence Worley (Standing)f6A 1
80Will Scarletf7B  
81Police Captain Quigglef6A+  
82The Kingf5+ 1
83Big Donf5 1
84Little Donf4 1
 MIXED EMOTIONS  
86Mixed Emotionsf8B+  
87Kandif6C  
 THE EAGLE STONE  
89Eagle Arêtef5+ 1
90Rampf4 1
91Raptor Wallf3+ 1
92Wanderlustf6C  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Take care when moving around the boulders. A number of snares have been set. Luckily I had my walking boots on when we found the first!
Paul Clarke - 05/Jan/15
Not quite true! Three grooves capped by an overlap provide an interesting buttress - all unclimbed. The slab provides some of the best slab climbing on the Moors, and then the delightful grooved arete and it's adjacent crackline are well worth climbing. All in all, Kay Nest is around 8 - 10 routes away from being brought into the modern age.
Dave Warburton - 05/Nov/14
Awful Crag. A very hard blank wall that needs freeing and a short, very hard arete are the only two routes worth mentioning. Lots of excellent Bouldering.
Franco Cookson - 03/Apr/10
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 01/Nov/2014
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