Kay Nest

Climbs 200 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features

Large sandstone outcrop. Loads of ace bouldering at all grades and a few hard projects on the crag.

Approach notes

DON'T WALK UP TRIPSDALE AS IT'S PRIVATE LAND AND YOU'LL NARK THE FARMER.

Normal way following the footpath as per Climbonline. Don't go up Tripsdale towards High Crag.

Update: Another way in is by parking at the village hall in chop gate. Cross the road and follow the public right of way which joins the farm track and takes you up the hill and through William Beck Farm. This then turns into a footpath and takes you onto the moor top via 3 gates. Join a bridleway at a T junction as it goes south for 100m, this then turns east and takes you down into Tripsdale on a zig zag track.

Access notes

The climbing lies below prime grouse moor which needs to be crossed to achieve access. Those wishing to climb are advised to check the Natural England, Open Access database for any temporary restrictions. The location is OS, SE582986.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks

Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MAIN CRAG  
 CAPPED GROOVES  
3Tally HoS  
4Stirrup CupVD  
 MAIN BUTTRESS  
6FlashpointE4 5b *1
7Are You Shpongled?E7 6a 1
8Blaze of GloryE7 6a 1
9TrailblazerE6 6a **1
10Lichen Wall Thin CrackE6 6c  
11Grooved AreteE8 6c  
12Main Face (Aid Route)VS 5a a5?  
13Divine Moments Of TruthE10 7a 1
 JUTTING BUTTRESS  
15Stout CrackVS 4c  
16HarbingerE4 6b 2
17Harbinger (Campus Start)f6C+ 1
18Man on the EdgeE5 6b 1
19Scout CrackS  
20SlanterS  
21Vee ChimneyS  
 MAGIC BUTTRESS  
23The Arete (Project)E8 7b  
 MANTLESHELF BUTTRESS  
25Hagg End RidgeS  
26Hagg End Ridge Variation StartS  
 BOULDERING  
 CAPSIZED BLOCK  
29Capsized - Problem 1f5+  
30The Quakerf6C  
31Dick Richief7A+  
 HULL SLAB  
33The Hull Slab - Problem 1f3 3
34The Hull Slab - Problem 2f4 3
35The Hull Slab - Problem 3f4+ 3
36The Hull Slab - Problem 4f6A 3
37The Hull Slab - Problem 5f4 3
38The Hull Slab - Problem 6f6A  
39The Hull Slab - Problem 7f5 2
 THE SHIP STONE  
41The Ship East Face - Problem 1f5 3
42The Ship East Face - Problem 2f5 4
43The Ship East Face - Problem 3f4 7
44The Ship East Face - Problem 4f5+ 1
45The Ship East Face - Problem 5f5 7
46The Ship East Face - Problem 6f6A+ 2
47The Ship East Face - Problem 7f5 5
48The Ship East Face - Problem 8f5 5
49The Ship West Face - Problem 9f4 4
50The Ship West Face - Problem 10f6A 1
51The Ship West Face - Problem 11f5+ 2
52The Ship West Face - Problem 12f6B  
53The Ship West Face - Problem 13f5+ 2
54The Ship West Face - Problem 14f6A+ 1
55The Ship West Face - Problem 15f6A 1
56The Ship West Face - Problem 16f6A 1
 THE CANNON  
58The Cannonf8A  
 RIVER VIEW  
 THE PATIO AREA  
61Elliot Blitzerf5  
62Clifford Worleyf6A  
63Nicky Dimesf6A  
64Wurlitzerf5+  
65Little Gemf6B  
66The Patiof6C  
67BBQf5 3
68Ribsf6B  
69Full Rackf6A+  
 THE NEST  
71Floydf6A  
72Elvisf5 2
73Alabama Whitmanf4+  
74Drexlf6A  
75True Romancef6C 2
 VERMILLION BLOCK  
77Vermillionf7C  
 NEST SLAB  
79Clarence Worleyf7A  
80Clarence Worley (Standing)f6A 1
81Will Scarletf7B  
82Police Captain Quigglef6A+  
83The Kingf5+ 1
84Big Donf5 1
85Little Donf4 1
 MIXED EMOTIONS  
87Mixed Emotionsf8B+  
88Kandif6C  
 THE EAGLE STONE  
90Eagle ArÍtef5+ 1
91Rampf4 1
92Raptor Wallf3+ 1
93Wanderlustf6C 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Take care when moving around the boulders. A number of snares have been set. Luckily I had my walking boots on when we found the first!
Paul Clarke - 05/Jan/15
Not quite true! Three grooves capped by an overlap provide an interesting buttress - all unclimbed. The slab provides some of the best slab climbing on the Moors, and then the delightful grooved arete and it's adjacent crackline are well worth climbing. All in all, Kay Nest is around 8 - 10 routes away from being brought into the modern age.
Dave Warburton - 05/Nov/14