Kay Nest

Climbs 74 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 250m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Large sandstone outcrop. Loads of ace bouldering at all grades and a few hard projects on the crag.

DON'T WALK UP TRIPSDALE AS IT'S PRIVATE LAND AND YOU'LL NARK THE FARMER.

Access notes
Normal way following the footpath as per Climbonline. Don't go up Tripsdale towards High Crag.

Update: Another way in is by parking at the village hall in chop gate. Cross the road and follow the public right of way which joins the farm track and takes you up the hill and through William Beck Farm. This then turns into a footpath and takes you onto the moor top via 3 gates. Join a bridleway at a T junction as it goes south for 100m, this then turns east and takes you down into Tripsdale on a zig zag track.

Guidebooks

Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 MAIN CRAG 
 CAPPED GROOVES 
3Tally HoS
4Stirrup CupVD
 MAIN BUTTRESS 
6FlashpointE4 5b *
7Blaze of GloryE6 6a
8TrailblazerE5 5c **
9Lichen Wall Thin Crack E5 6c
10Grooved Arete E7 6c
11Main Face (Aid Route)VS 5a a2
12The Main Face (Project) E9 7a
 JUTTING BUTTRESS 
14Stout CrackVS 4c
15HarbingerE4 6b
16Harbinger (Campus Start)f6C+
17Man on the EdgeE5 6b
18Scout CrackS
19SlanterS
20Vee ChimneyS
 MAGIC BUTTRESS 
22The Arete (Project) E8 7b
 MANTLESHELF BUTTRESS 
24Hagg End RidgeS
25Hagg End Ridge Variation StartS
 BOULDERING 
 CAPSIZED BLOCK 
28Capsized - Problem 1f5+
29The Quakerf6C
30Dick Richief7A+
 HULL SLAB 
32The Hull Slab - Problem 1f3
33The Hull Slab - Problem 2f4
34The Hull Slab - Problem 3f4+
35The Hull Slab - Problem 4f6A
36The Hull Slab - Problem 5f4
37The Hull Slab - Problem 6f6A
38The Hull Slab - Problem 7f5
 THE SHIP STONE 
40The Ship East Face - Problem 1f5
41The Ship East Face - Problem 2f5
42The Ship East Face - Problem 3f4
43The Ship East Face - Problem 4f5+
44The Ship East Face - Problem 5f5
45The Ship East Face - Problem 6f6A+
46The Ship East Face - Problem 7f5
47The Ship East Face - Problem 8f5
48The Ship West Face - Problem 9f4
49The Ship West Face - Problem 10f6A
50The Ship West Face - Problem 11f5+
51The Ship West Face - Problem 12f6B
52The Ship West Face - Problem 13f5+
53The Ship West Face - Problem 14f6A+
54The Ship West Face - Problem 15f6A
55The Ship West Face - Problem 16f6A
 THE CANNON 
57The Cannonf8A
 RIVER VIEW 
 THE PATIO AREA 
60Elliot Blitzerf5
61Clifford Worleyf6A
62Nicky Dimesf6A
63Wurlitzerf5+
64Little Gemf6B
65The Patiof6C
66BBQf5
67Ribsf6B
68Full Rackf6A+
 THE NEST 
70Floydf6A
71Elvisf5
72Alabama Whitmanf4+
73Drexlf6A
74True Romancef6C
 VERMILLION BLOCK 
76Vermillionf7C
 NEST SLAB 
78Clarence Worleyf7A
79Clarence Worley (Standing)f6A
80Will Scarletf7B
81Police Captain Quigglef6A+
82The Kingf5+
83Big Donf5
84Little Donf4
 MIXED EMOTIONS 
86Mixed Emotionsf8B+
87Kandif6C
 THE EAGLE STONE 
89Eagle Arêtef5+
90Rampf4
91Raptor Wallf3+
92Wanderlustf6C
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Not quite true! Three grooves capped by an overlap provide an interesting buttress - all unclimbed. The slab provides some of the best slab climbing on the Moors, and then the delightful grooved arete and it's adjacent crackline are well worth climbing. All in all, Kay Nest is around 8 - 10 routes away from being brought into the modern age.
Dave Warburton - 05/Nov/14
Awful Crag. A very hard blank wall that needs freeing and a short, very hard arete are the only two routes worth mentioning. Lots of excellent Bouldering.
Franco Cookson - 03/Apr/10
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 01/Nov/2014
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