Climbs 200
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces SW

The Powerful Start To Harbinger © Franco Cookson

Crag features

Large sandstone outcrop. Loads of ace bouldering at all grades and a few hard projects on the crag.

Approach notes

DON'T WALK UP TRIPSDALE AS IT'S PRIVATE LAND AND YOU'LL NARK THE FARMER.

Normal way following the footpath as per Climbonline. Don't go up Tripsdale towards High Crag.

Update: Another way in is by parking at the village hall in chop gate. Cross the road and follow the public right of way which joins the farm track and takes you up the hill and through William Beck Farm. This then turns into a footpath and takes you onto the moor top via 3 gates. Join a bridleway at a T junction as it goes south for 100m, this then turns east and takes you down into Tripsdale on a zig zag track.

Access Advice

The climbing lies below prime grouse moor which needs to be crossed to achieve access. Those wishing to climb are advised to check the Natural England, Open Access database for any temporary restrictions. The location is OS, SE582986.

Guidebooks

Take care when moving around the boulders. A number of snares have been set. Luckily I had my walking boots on when we found the first!
Paul Clarke - 05/Jan/15
Not quite true! Three grooves capped by an overlap provide an interesting buttress - all unclimbed. The slab provides some of the best slab climbing on the Moors, and then the delightful grooved arete and it's adjacent crackline are well worth climbing. All in all, Kay Nest is around 8 - 10 routes away from being brought into the modern age.
Dave Warburton - 05/Nov/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 MAIN CRAG 
 Capped Grooves 
3Tally Ho
-
S  
4Stirrup Cup
-
VD  
 Main Buttress 
6FlashpointE4 5b *1
7Are You Shpongled?E7 6a 1
8Blaze of GloryE7 6a 1
9TrailblazerE6 6a **1
10Lichen Wall Thin CrackE6 6c  
11Grooved AreteE8 6c  
12Main Face (Aid Route)VS 5a a5?  
13Divine Moments Of TruthE10 7a 1
 Jutting Buttress 
15Stout Crack
-
VS 4c  
16HarbingerE4 6b 2
17Harbinger (Campus Start)f6C+ 1
18Man on the EdgeE5 6b 1
19Scout Crack
-
S  
20Slanter
-
S  
21Vee Chimney
-
S  
 Magic Buttress 
23The Arete (Project)E8 7b  
 Mantleshelf Buttress 
25Hagg End Ridge
-
S  
26Hagg End Ridge Variation StartS  
 Bouldering 
 CAPSIZED BLOCK 
29Capsized - Problem 1
-
f5+  
30The Quaker
-
f6C  
31Dick Richie
-
f7A+  
63Nicky Dimes
-
f6A  
64Wurlitzer
-
f5+  
65Little Gem
-
f6B  
66The Patio
-
f6C  
67BBQ
-
f5 3
68Ribs
-
f6B  
69Full Rack
-
f6A+  
 THE NEST 
71Floydf6A  
72Elvisf5 2
73Alabama Whitmanf4+  
74Drexl
-
f6A  
75True Romancef6C 2
 VERMILLION BLOCK 
77Vermillionf7C  
 NEST SLAB 
79Clarence Worleyf7A  
80Clarence Worley (Standing)
-
f6A 1
81Will Scarletf7B  
82Police Captain Quigglef6A+  
83The Kingf5+ 1
84Big Donf5 1
85Little Don
-
f4 1
 MIXED EMOTIONS 
87Mixed Emotionsf8B+  
88Kandi
-
f6C  
 THE EAGLE STONE 
90Eagle ArÍtef5+ 2
91Rampf4 2
92Raptor Wallf3+ 2
93Wanderlustf6C 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson