Climbs 40
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NW

Just one more bit of gear © JDal

Crag features

A smallish crag in the MOD Otturburn Ranges. The majority of routes are HVS - E4 and the crag is an excellent spot for those operating in that sort of range.

Approach notes

Because the crag is on the MOD ranges permission for access should be obtained by phoning 0191 2611046, unless the red flags are down. This is an area of the range used for small arms stuff and you can very often get access even if the flags are flying.Follow the MOD road out of Holystone and on entering the danger area turn left. After 2km the crag becomes visible.

Access Advice

This crag is on a live firing range and therefore subject to military bylaws. DO NOT PICK UP, KICK OR REMOVE ANY OBJECT FROM THE OTTERBURN TRAINING AREA, IT COULD KILL.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Hush
-
VS 4c  
2Quiet Country
-
E6 6b *** 
3Slim
-
VD  
4The Onsight GobblerE4 6a ** 
5The Camels BackE3 5c *** 
6The ReaperE4 5c  
7Millstone Crack
-
HVS 5b  
8Grip Crack
-
HS 4b  
9Yard of Hope
-
E3 6a ** 
10Hay Fever
-
S 4b  
11Straw Dogs
-
VS 5a 1
12The Vegetarian
-
HVS 5b  
13Alfalfa
-
D  
14Heaven Can WaitHVS 5b 2
15No Time For Prayers
-
E3 6a * 
16Haystack CrackHS 4b 1
17The Long Straw
-
HVS 5b 1
18The Straw
-
E2 6a  
19The Short Straw
-
HVS 5c 1
20The Last Straw
-
E2 6a  
21Footloose and Flying FreeE3 5c ** 
22Bonds FollyMS 4
23Bran Flakes
-
E1 5b *1
24Funeral Drum
-
E3 5c  
25The AreteHVS 5b ***9
26The Arete Direct
-
HVS 5b  
27StellaE4 5c 1
28Original RouteVS 5a ***18
29The Splits
-
HVS 5a **2
30Priapismic Failure
-
E4 6b * 
31Popcorn Suprise
-
E3 6a **1
32The Threshing Machine
-
HS  
33Godzooki
-
E1 5c  
34Kong
-
E3 6a ** 
35Godzilla
-
E3 5c ***1
36Strawberry Crack
-
HVS 5b  
37The Grinder
-
HVS 5c *1
38Headbanger
-
VD  

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