A small offshore island, accessible by boat from Had Chao Mai pier. No noisy longtail boats or traffic...just a beautiful beach and some amazing, steep tufa and stalactite climbing. From Ao Nang or Krabi, visit the Tigerline office and book on the ferry. They can also arrange a transfer to the pier from Krabi or Ao Nang. The total cost for the transfer was 1000B in 2011.
From steep, 3D stalactite climbing to pulling on incut pockets on superb orange limestone, this place has something for everyone. Grades range from F5+ to F7b+, and the climbing is usually steep and positive, but technical. Enough pitches to keep most people busy for a week or so.
Be sure to do the classic multi-pitch, "House of the Rising Sun". At the top climb up through the cave and solo up the stalactite, through the hole onto the top of the island. A great little adventure.
Best to visit for 3-4 days. Accommodation is provided in luxury "tent cabins" - with an all inclusive rate, including tasty traditional Thai cuisine. Most routes get afternoon shade in peak season, but there is plenty of kayaking and snorkelling to keep busy in the mornings.
Some world-class steep bouldering is located in a cave behind the beach and is in the shade all day.
Out of print: Rock Climbing in Thailand (2005)
|1||Need Deet||6c ***||9|
|3||Chillin Like a Villain||6b ***||11|
|4||The Bangkok Coconut Mafia||6c+ ***||12|
|5||House of the Rising Sun||6b+ ***||10|
|6||The Golden Triangle||6c ***||8|
|7||Knee Deep||6c ***||3|
|8||Principa Mathematica||6a ***||7|
|9||Chasing Fish||6a+ *||9|
|10||Blood Meridian||6c ***||8|
|12||X-Site Two||6a *||3|
|13||X-Site 3||6b *||1|
|14||Caotain Fat||7a+ *||3|
|16||Lip Service||7a+ **||4|
|19||Something for Nothing||7a ***||4|
|22||Hollow Walls||6b+ **|
|23||Chaotic Tranquility||6c *|
|24||Oh yah!||6a+ *||1|
|25||All riggghht||6b ***||4|
|26||Over the hill||6c **||1|
|27||Far Away||6c+ ***||1|
|28||Tufa madness||6b+ **||1|
|29||Hanging Arete||7b **||1|
|30||The Flying Dutchwoman||6a ***||3|
|31||Dragons King||5a **||1|
|32||Twisted Logic||6c+ ***||3|
|33||Crawling King Snake||6b **||2|
|34||Captain Thin *||6b+||1|
|35||Fool's Gold *||7b+ ***||1|
|37||X-Site One *||6a+||1|
|38||Pansies Need Chalk *||7b||1|
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