UKC

Climbs 16
Rocktype UNKNOWN

Faces NW

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Ogono © Mark Reeves

Crag features

Ogono is an amazing crag, the Penon D'Ifach of the north coast, but without the high rises of Calp below. Despite the expansive appearance, the approach is reasonably simple for most of the routes which start off the main ramp or terrace. The route Kresala requires a mini expedition to get to the start.

Ogono is set away from other areas but there is enough here for a few days of multi-pitch climbing with a good grade spread. If the weather is bad then have a go at surfing as the beaches around here are some of the best breaks in Europe.

Approach notes

Turn off the A-8 at junction 18 and take the BI-635 to Gernika. Head round the outside of Gernika on the BI-635 to reach a roundabout and turn right onto the BI-2238 signposted Lekeitio. Head through Kortezubi and Gautigiz-Arteagako, as you pass along the long straight at the end by a bend is a left turn towards Playa de Laga on the BI-3234. Head along here and past a cafe on a beach, round the headland and down towards Playa de Laga, where you will see the cliff face high above the beach. When you turn inland from the beach carry on for 1km to a minor road on the left over a small bridge. Cross the bridge then turn right up a narrow road which turns to concrete winding its way steeply up hill to large flat parking area at the top of the hill above the village of Elantxobe.

From the car park, walk up the right side of graveyard up the steep concrete track. Carry along this for 1km. Just before the track starts to drop down to a building, there is a notice board and path on the right. Follow this through the woods for 400m to a dip, there is a yellow warning sign on the right. 50m past this a small track leads off to the cliff edge and the start of the descent ramp. Scramble down a short wall to get to the top of a gully and head round to reach a handline down the only steep section. Hand over hand down this and when you get to another steep section head left to avoid before follow the path back onto the main rampline.

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