Climbs 20
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 270m a.s.l
Faces E

Second lead © Will Nicholls

Crag features

Three buttresses are listed in the guide but the left hand two are reputedly overgrown. The (relatively) prominent access path goes only to the right hand buttress, which seems to be used for abseiling.

Approach notes

The crag is located just above the minor road from Llanrwst to the Ugly House on the Llanrwst side. Coming from Llanrwst a private track, signposted Ty'n yr Ardd, branches back R up the hill about 300 m above the old Hafna mine workings (car park). Follow this for about 100 m until, just after an old, barred-off mine entrance on the L (small, relatively inconspicuous), a path climbs the hillside a short way to the foot of the routes around Johari Window. For routes around Heulwen drop down a few m from the crag base, bushwhack across above the first prominent tree below and follow a faint path back up. Routes left of Heulwen are reputedly somewhat overgrown and access is jungly. These areas are said to be better accessed from around the highest point of the forest road above the crag. The forest road could be gained by a short ascent from the top of the routes at the R end, or by walking up through the Hafna workings or from higher up the Ugly House road.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1The Clock of the Long Now
-
HVS 5a  
2Shamanic Wanderings
-
E6 6a  
3First EncounterVS  
4Johari Window
-
E1 5b *3
5Bonsai Wall
-
HS 4a *3
6Gorki Groove
-
E1 5a  
7Offcut
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HS 4a  
8Final Flurry
-
HVS 4c  
9Heulwen
-
VS 4b *2
10Ulex
-
VS 4b 2
11Quercus's Route
-
HS 4b  
12Mistake
-
VS 4c  
13Provo
-
HVS 5a  
14Man of Haearn
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E3 5b  
15Digger
-
VS 4b  
16MetroVD  
17Suede Slide
-
HS 4b  
18Twin Cracks
-
HVS 4c  
19Oak Tree Jug
-
VS 4c  
20The A5
-
S  
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