Craig y Clipiau (Moelwyns)

Climbs 33 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 155ft: some stunning ones, on good rock in great positions. Notable for Africa Rib (VDiff), Mean Feat (HVS 5a) and Crimson Cruiser (E4 6a - back cover of 1989 guidebook).

Access notes
Head up from the Cwm Orthin track. Note that access problems can arise if you take shortcuts over peoples' land - don't. Blasting in the Cwmorthin Slate quarry can also delay you.

Go R from the dilapidated buildings on the first level section above the steep rise from the car park. At the top of a steep incline, head R to the first part of the crag.

Guidebooks
North Wales Rock (2006), Meirionnydd (2002), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Tetse FlyVS 4c
2Johnson's CreekE1 5a
3BarflyVS 4c
4Trick of the TailHVS 5a
5Johnson's WallE3 6a *
6Jones's CrackVS 4c
7BetimesD
8Depression DirectHS 4a
9Thin Wall SpecialVS 4c *
10The EmeraldE5 6b **
11vestixHVS 5a
12africa ribVD **
13Usher's DilemmaHS *
14Usher's Dliemma - Eagle FinishVS 4b *
15BrysHVS 5a
16AsahelS *
17Asahel - Eagle FinishVS 4a,4b *
18Great Feat/Mean FeatE1 5b **
19Crimson CruiserE5 6a ***
20Mean FeatHVS 5a *
21Purple PardiseE5 6b *
22Non Dairy CreamerE5 6a ***
23Straw Dogs FinishE2 5c *
24Double CrissVS 5a *
25Overhanging CracksE2 5c *
26Special KE3 5c *
27Inverted StaircaseVS 4c
28Peth BrasHVS 5b
29the moleHS
30A Mad Day OutE5 6a/b **
31Crab NebulaHVS 5a
32Phidl *HVS 5a
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Very enjoyable crag that dries quickly after rain- like its neighbours the protection can be a bit spaced- and tri cams are very usefull.And a nice easy descent down a grass gully to left of crag (looking in)- had the place to ourselves on an August bank holiday.
bobpilgrem - 30/Aug/12
Guidebook directions aren't too clear. Best way up is to follow the cwm orthin track until you can see the crag (fern trees and old mine buildings on your left). Take a short, obvious and very well worn path up the slate then follow the grassy incline over the stream up the right hand side of the huge slate slag heap. Go round the big lump of rock until you get to a small sheep-pen, take a left on to the slag heap following the not so obvious but very good path up through the slate (small cairn marker at the bottom). When you reach the obvious track (another cairn) go straight over and continue up the hidden path directly to the bottom of the crag.
George_Surf - 21/May/12
I added this by mistake, it should be Crag y clipiau
jim.barritt - 08/Jun/09
Crimson Cruiser is fantastic. My old man did the 1st ascent of Great Feat...cool
Nj - 05/Jul/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 06/Jun/2014

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