Craig y Clipiau (Moelwyns)

Climbs 33 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 155ft: some stunning ones, on good rock in great positions. Notable for Africa Rib (VDiff), Mean Feat (HVS 5a) and Crimson Cruiser (E4 6a - back cover of 1989 guidebook).

Access notes
Head up from the Cwm Orthin track. Note that access problems can arise if you take shortcuts over peoples' land - don't. Blasting in the Cwmorthin Slate quarry can also delay you.

Go R from the dilapidated buildings on the first level section above the steep rise from the car park. At the top of a steep incline, head R to the first part of the crag.

Guidebooks
North Wales Rock (2006), Meirionnydd (2002), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Tetse FlyVS 4c 1
2Johnson's CreekE1 5a 1
3BarflyVS 4c 1
4Trick of the TailHVS 5a 2
5Johnson's WallE3 6a *1
6Jones's CrackVS 4c 6
7BetimesD 10
8Depression DirectHS 4a 30
9Thin Wall SpecialVS 4c *36
10The EmeraldE5 6b **2
11vestixHVS 5a 16
12africa ribVD **268
13Usher's DilemmaHS 4a *50
14Usher's Dliemma - Eagle FinishVS 4b *36
15BrysHVS 5a *20
16AsahelHS 4a **204
17Asahel - Eagle FinishVS 4c **68
18Great Feat/Mean FeatE1 5b **62
19Crimson CruiserE5 6a ***27
20Mean FeatHVS 5a **85
21Purple PardiseE5 6b *1
22Non Dairy CreamerE5 6a ***15
23Straw Dogs FinishE2 5c *5
24Double CrissHVS 5a **108
25Overhanging CracksE2 5c *5
26Special KE3 5c *1
27Inverted StaircaseVS 4c 58
28Peth BrasHVS 5b 3
29the moleHS 4
30A Mad Day OutE5 6a/b ** 
31Crab NebulaHVS 5a 1
32Phidl *HVS 5a 1
33Great Feet *E1 5b *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Very enjoyable crag that dries quickly after rain- like its neighbours the protection can be a bit spaced- and tri cams are very usefull.And a nice easy descent down a grass gully to left of crag (looking in)- had the place to ourselves on an August bank holiday.
bobpilgrem - 30/Aug/12
Guidebook directions aren't too clear. Best way up is to follow the cwm orthin track until you can see the crag (fern trees and old mine buildings on your left). Take a short, obvious and very well worn path up the slate then follow the grassy incline over the stream up the right hand side of the huge slate slag heap. Go round the big lump of rock until you get to a small sheep-pen, take a left on to the slag heap following the not so obvious but very good path up through the slate (small cairn marker at the bottom). When you reach the obvious track (another cairn) go straight over and continue up the hidden path directly to the bottom of the crag.
George_Surf - 21/May/12
I added this by mistake, it should be Crag y clipiau
jim.barritt - 08/Jun/09
Crimson Cruiser is fantastic. My old man did the 1st ascent of Great Feat...cool
Nj - 05/Jul/02