Craig y Clipiau (Moelwyns) Gwynedd, WALES
Climbs 33 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S
Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 155ft: some stunning ones, on good rock in great positions. Notable for Africa Rib (VDiff), Mean Feat (HVS 5a) and Crimson Cruiser (E4 6a - back cover of 1989 guidebook).
Head up from the Cwm Orthin track. Note that access problems can arise if you take shortcuts over peoples' land - don't. Blasting in the Cwmorthin Slate quarry can also delay you.
Go R from the dilapidated buildings on the first level section above the steep rise from the car park. At the top of a steep incline, head R to the first part of the crag.
North Wales Rock (2006), Meirionnydd (2002), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)
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Very enjoyable crag that dries quickly after rain- like its neighbours the protection can be a bit spaced- and tri cams are very usefull.And a nice easy descent down a grass gully to left of crag (looking in)- had the place to ourselves on an August bank holiday.|
bobpilgrem - 30/Aug/12
Guidebook directions aren't too clear. Best way up is to follow the cwm orthin track until you can see the crag (fern trees and old mine buildings on your left). Take a short, obvious and very well worn path up the slate then follow the grassy incline over the stream up the right hand side of the huge slate slag heap. Go round the big lump of rock until you get to a small sheep-pen, take a left on to the slag heap following the not so obvious but very good path up through the slate (small cairn marker at the bottom). When you reach the obvious track (another cairn) go straight over and continue up the hidden path directly to the bottom of the crag.
George_Surf - 21/May/12
I added this by mistake, it should be Crag y clipiau
jim.barritt - 08/Jun/09
Crimson Cruiser is fantastic.
My old man did the 1st ascent of Great Feat...cool
Nj - 05/Jul/02