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View larger mapGrid Ref SH 683457 (OS Landranger #115)

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These details were last updated on 19/Apr/2014

Craig y Clipiau (Moelwyns)

Gwynedd, WALES

Climbs 33 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 155ft: some stunning ones, on good rock in great positions. Notable for Africa Rib (VDiff), Mean Feat (HVS 5a) and Crimson Cruiser (E4 6a - back cover of 1989 guidebook).

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

3.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
9 °C
22 kph

0.2mm rain
Sun
10 °C
15 kph

1.4mm rain
Sunny periods
14 °C
21 kph

9.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
10 °C
19 kph

8.3mm rain
Cloudy
10 °C
15 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: SnowdoniaMet Office: Snowdonia

Guidebooks
North Wales Rock (2006), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Mean FeatHVS 5a *70
2Inverted StaircaseVS 4c 53
3vestixHVS 5a 14
4AsahelS *153
5the moleHS 3
6Double CrissVS 5a *91
7Thin Wall SpecialVS 4c *29
8Usher's Dliemma - Eagle FinishVS 4b *33
9africa ribVD **236
10Crimson CruiserE5 6a ***22
11BrysHVS 5a 15
12Peth BrasHVS 5b 3
13Usher's DilemmaHS *39
14Overhanging CracksE2 5c *2
15Straw Dogs FinishE2 5c *4
16AshaelS 25
17Jones's CrackVS 4c 6
 Climb nameGradex
18Depression DirectHS 4a 28
19Great Feat/Mean FeatE1 5b **46
20Non Dairy CreamerE5 6a ***11
21A Mad Day OutE5 6a/b ** 
22The EmeraldE5 6b **1
23BetimesD 9
24Special KE3 5c *1
25Purple PardiseE5 6b * 
26Asahel - Eagle FinishVS 4a,4b *52
27AshrealS 4
28Tetse FlyVS 4c 1
29Johnson's CreekE1 5a 1
30BarflyVS 4c 1
31Crab NebulaHVS 5a 1
32Trick of the TailHVS 5a 2
33Johnson's Wall *E3 6a *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
Head up from the Cwm Orthin track. Note that access problems can arise if you take shortcuts over peoples' land - don't. Blasting in the Cwmorthin Slate quarry can also delay you.

Go R from the dilapidated buildings on the first level section above the steep rise from the car park. At the top of a steep incline, head R to the first part of the crag.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Very enjoyable crag that dries quickly after rain- like its neighbours the protection can be a bit spaced- and tri cams are very usefull.And a nice easy descent down a grass gully to left of crag (looking in)- had the place to ourselves on an August bank holiday.
bobpilgrem - 30/Aug/12

Guidebook directions aren't too clear. Best way up is to follow the cwm orthin track until you can see the crag (fern trees and old mine buildings on your left). Take a short, obvious and very well worn path up the slate then follow the grassy incline over the stream up the right hand side of the huge slate slag heap. Go round the big lump of rock until you get to a small sheep-pen, take a left on to the slag heap following the not so obvious but very good path up through the slate (small cairn marker at the bottom). When you reach the obvious track (another cairn) go straight over and continue up the hidden path directly to the bottom of the crag.
George_Surf - 21/May/12

I added this by mistake, it should be Crag y clipiau
jim.barritt - 08/Jun/09

Crimson Cruiser is fantastic. My old man did the 1st ascent of Great Feat...cool
Nj - 05/Jul/02