Craig Yr Ogof (Cwm Silyn)

Climbs 53 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 550m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
The best crag in this area, with a mountain feel. All multi-pitch routes up to 400ft. There is also an E4, for those interested. Notable for Outside Edge (V.Diff), Kirkus's Climb/Route (VS) and Jabberwocky (E2 5c).

Good slabby wall on the right with a steep wall of corners and overhangs and the left with some classic HVS to E2s on it.

Rockfall Warning at the top of Ordinary Route / Outside Edge Route. See BMC website https://www.thebmc.co.uk/cwm-silyn-rockfall-warning for more details. [Sept 14]

The main slab faces SW, but is shaded from the sun early in the season. In the summer the crag makes a great afternoon venue when you may well appreciate why Sunset Ledge got its name. The main slab dries quickly after rain, although there is some seepage towards its right hand side. It is exposed to any wind.

Access notes
From Pen y Groes on the A487, follow signs to Llanllyfni, then towards Tan yr Allt. Ignore the first road on the right (Tal Garnedd). Instead, take the next right up an unmarked road parallel to a stream. Continue to the end of the surfaced road and park through the gate in the field - don't try and drive up the track to the crag. From here, a pleasant path leads gently up towards the two tarns (Llynnau Cwm Silyn). Skirt around these and tackle the scree up to the crag.

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Classics (2010), North Wales Rock (2006), Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn (2003), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Central route (Not Central variation)S ? 1
 EASTERN SECTION  
3Sunset RibD *3
4Black GullyVD  
5Nirvana WallS 1
6Green GullyHVS 5a  
7Artist's ClimbD 2
 OGOF NOSE - NORTH FACE  
9Jones's TraverseVS 4c  
10BrutusE2 5c * 
11Ogof DirectE1 5c *4
12Oblique RouteS  
13DesifinadoHVS 5a * 
 OGOF NOSE - WEST WALL  
15EurekaE1 5b  
16BandersnatchE3 5c  
17CodswallopE2 5b *1
18CrucibleE1 5b ***59
19JabberwockyE2 5c **36
20Bourdillon's ClimbE4 6a  
21PenatesHVS 5a 4
22The Ogof TraverseHVS 5a * 
 THE GREAT SLAB  
24Outside Edge RouteVD ***331
25Ordinary RouteD **112
26Fair to MiddlinVS 4c  
27Direct RouteVD 12
28Central VariantHVS 5a *6
29Kirkus's RouteVS 4c **228
30Kirkus's DirectHVS 5b **67
 UPPER SLAB AND SOUTH - WEST BUTTRESS  
32AquariusVS 5a 1
33Kangies CrawlVS  
34Upper Slab ClimbS *5
35West AreteVS 4c  
36Rib and TowerD  
 AMPHITHEATRE BUTTRESS  
38Original RouteD 4
39GotogoVS 4b  
40JerichoD  
41Tower of StrengthS 1
42AfterthoughtS  
 WINTER ROUTES  
44Prow GullyII  
45Broad GullyI  
46Black GullyIII  
47Atrocity RunV  
48Aquarian WallV  
49White SnakeV  
50Amphitheatre GullyI 3
51The Great Stone ShootI 4
52The Widow Of The WebIV **3
53Four Pitch GullyII/III  
54Little KitchenII/III 2
55Mask of DeathIV 5 ***2
56Bedrock GullyIV 5 **3
57CarlaV 5 **1
58Pillars of SilynVI 6 ***2
59Frozen in TimeVIII 7 ***3
60Colin's GulleyV 5 ***5
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