Craig Yr Ogof (Cwm Silyn)

Climbs 53 – Rocktype Rhyolite – Altitude 550m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
The best crag in this area, with a mountain feel. All multi-pitch routes up to 400ft. There is also an E4, for those interested. Notable for Outside Edge (V.Diff), Kirkus's Climb/Route (VS) and Jabberwocky (E2 5c).

Good slabby wall on the right with a steep wall of corners and overhangs and the left with some classic HVS to E2s on it.

Rockfall Warning at the top of Ordinary Route / Outside Edge Route. See BMC website https://www.thebmc.co.uk/cwm-silyn-rockfall-warning for more details. [Sept 14]

The main slab faces SW, but is shaded from the sun early in the season. In the summer the crag makes a great afternoon venue when you may well appreciate why Sunset Ledge got its name. The main slab dries quickly after rain, although there is some seepage towards its right hand side. It is exposed to any wind.

Access notes
From Pen y Groes on the A487, follow signs to Llanllyfni, then towards Tan yr Allt. Ignore the first road on the right (Tal Garnedd). Instead, take the next right up an unmarked road parallel to a stream. Continue to the end of the surfaced road and park through the gate in the field - don't try and drive up the track to the crag. From here, a pleasant path leads gently up towards the two tarns (Llynnau Cwm Silyn). Skirt around these and tackle the scree up to the crag.

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Classics (2010), North Wales Rock (2006), Cwm Silyn and Cwellyn (2003), Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1Central route (Not Central variation)S ?
 EASTERN SECTION 
3Sunset RibD *
4Black GullyVD
5Nirvana WallS
6Green GullyHVS 5a
7Artist's ClimbD
 OGOF NOSE - NORTH FACE 
9Jones's TraverseVS 4c
10BrutusE2 5c *
11Ogof DirectE1 5c *
12Oblique RouteS
13DesifinadoHVS 5a *
 OGOF NOSE - WEST WALL 
15EurekaE1 5b
16BandersnatchE3 5c
17CodswallopE2 5b *
18CrucibleHVS 5b ***
19JabberwockyE2 5c *
20Bourdillon's ClimbE4 6a
21PenatesHVS 5a
22The Ogof TraverseHVS 5a *
 THE GREAT SLAB 
24Outside Edge RouteVD ***
25Ordinary RouteD **
26Fair to MiddlinVS 4c
27Direct RouteVD
28Central VariantHVS 5a
29Kirkus's RouteVS 4c **
30Kirkus's DirectHVS 5a
 UPPER SLAB AND SOUTH - WEST BUTTRESS 
32AquariusVS 5a
33Kangies CrawlVS
34Upper Slab ClimbS *
35West AreteVS 4c
36Rib and TowerD
 AMPHITHEATRE BUTTRESS 
38Original RouteD
39GotogoVS 4b
40JerichoD
41Tower of StrengthS
42AfterthoughtS
 WINTER ROUTES 
44Prow GullyII
45Broad GullyI
46Black GullyIII
47Atrocity RunV
48Aquarian WallV
49White SnakeV
50Amphitheatre GullyI
51The Great Stone ShootI
52The Widow Of The WebIV **
53Four Pitch GullyII/III
54Little KitchenII/III
55Mask of DeathIV 5 ***
56Bedrock GullyIV 5 **
57CarlaV 5 **
58Pillars of SilynVI 6 ***
59Frozen in TimeVIII 7 ***
60Colin's GulleyV 5 ***
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