Climbs 54
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 550m a.s.l
Faces SW

Cwm Silyn Boulder © RachubAndy

Crag features

The best crag in this area, with a mountain feel. All multi-pitch routes up to 400ft. There is also an E4, for those interested. Notable for Outside Edge (V.Diff), Kirkus's Climb/Route (VS) and Jabberwocky (E2 5c).

Good slabby wall on the right with a steep wall of corners and overhangs and the left with some classic HVS to E2s on it.

Rockfall Warning at the top of Ordinary Route / Outside Edge Route. See BMC website for more details. [Sept 14]

The main slab faces SW, but is shaded from the sun early in the season. In the summer the crag makes a great afternoon venue when you may well appreciate why Sunset Ledge got its name. The main slab dries quickly after rain, although there is some seepage towards its right hand side. It is exposed to any wind.

Approach notes

From Pen y Groes on the A487, follow signs to Llanllyfni, then towards Tan yr Allt. Ignore the first road on the right (Tal Garnedd). Instead, take the next right up an unmarked road parallel to a stream. Continue to the end of the surfaced road and park through the gate in the field - don't try and drive up the track to the crag. From here, a pleasant path leads gently up towards the two tarns (Llynnau Cwm Silyn). Skirt around these and tackle the scree up to the crag.

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Central route (Not Central variation)S ? 2
 Eastern Section 
3Sunset Rib
D *3
4Black Gully
5Nirvana Wall
S 1
6Green Gully
HVS 5a  
7Artist's Climb
D 2
 Ogof Nose - North Face 
9Jones's Traverse
VS 4c  
E2 5c * 
11Ogof Direct
E1 5c *5
12Oblique Route
HVS 5a *1
E1 5b  
E3 5c  
E2 5b *1
18CrucibleE1 5b ***71
19JabberwockyE2 5c **38
20Bourdillon's Climb
E4 6a  
HVS 5a 5
22The Ogof Traverse
HVS 5a * 
 Main Face 
24Outside Edge RouteVD ***480
25Ordinary RouteD **164
26Fair to MiddlinVS 4c  
27Direct Route
VD 13
28Central VariantHVS 5a *6
29Kirkus's RouteVS 4c **254
30Kirkus's DirectHVS 5b **85
 Upper Slab and South - West Buttress 
VS 5a 1
33Kangies CrawlVS  
34Upper Slab Climb
S *5
35West Arete
VS 4c 1
36Rib and Tower
 Amphitheatre Buttress 
38Original RouteD 6
VS 4b  
41Tower of Strength
S 1
 Winter Routes 
44Prow Gully
45Broad Gully
46Black Gully
47Atrocity Run
48Aquarian WallV  
49White SnakeV  
50Amphitheatre GullyI 4
51The Great Stone ShootI 4
52The Widow Of The WebIV **3
53Kiss of the Spider WomanVI 6 *** 
54Four Pitch Gully
55Little KitchenII/III 2
56Mask of DeathIV 5 ***2
57Bedrock GullyIV 5 **3
58Carla (aka: The Sneezing Guinea Pig)V 5 **1
59Pillars of SilynVI 6 ***2
60Frozen in TimeVIII 7 ***3
61Colin's GulleyV 5 ***5

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