A truly tranquil and peaceful spot that harbours one of Gower's most impressive crags. It is naturally very sheltered from the wind, and the grassy area at the base makes a fine picnic/sunbathing spot to watch the seals. The only downside is that, if looking upwards, the triangular shape of the crag is not solely due to perspective, so many of the routes feel a little cramped at the top.
The pick of the routes is Assassin which is must-do for every Gower HVS leader. Two fine E2s and an E4 (almost certainly undergraded given the current state of the fixed gear) blast through the overhangs, and several pleasant VSs exist on the R of the crag.
From Pilton Green (B4247): park on open land on the N side of the road opposite a white house. Signpost L of the house says Paviland Cave: follow path S through fields over several stiles to the last one at the head of a valley. Over this stile turn left up path, continue 100m until next (wider/shallower) valley is reached. Down here and continue skirting the right the E side until you turn a corner right at the bottom and Juniper Wall comes into view, on your R, facing out to sea.
|1||The Jackal Finish||E2 5c *||13|
|2||Killer's Route||E2 4c, 5b *||17|
|3||Assassin||HVS 5a ***||166|
|4||Ninja||VS 4b *||95|
|6||On The Horizon||VS 4b||72|
|8||Dry Riser||HVS 4c||25|
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|This crag has a lot to offer, not least its sheltered location. If the wind is northerly at all, or due west you can escape the breeze and enjoy sunshine from early/mid morning. A little sun trap! The VS routes are all good, and probably better than their star rating suggests. Although the rock at the easier end of the crag looks at first glance to have potential for looseness, this is largely illusory and the routes are well furnished with holds and gear. Be careful with belays at the top - many of the cracks which have been used are between loose/suspect blocks. What is also illusory is the apparently slab-like nature of the crag. When you get on the routes they are much steeper than they look from below.|
Rog Wilko - 06/Apr/10
|A gem of a crag which looks absolutely magnificent upon first acquaintance. Unfortunately its triangular appearance is not due to the perspective effect of looking up at it from the bottom, and all the routes tend to converge a little towards the top. Nonetheless it is an awesome crag and worth several visits for the mid-grade climber. Assassin is one of the best HVSs in the region and a benchmark for the grade, and the Jackal Finish is worth more than its single star. The old pegs are now all completely useless; this does not affect the Junction stance as there is plenty of natural protection, however the E4 that tkaes the main challenge of the roof is almost certainly undergraded as it relies on one of these rust-buckets for protection, and a crucial undercling looks like it may snap off at any moment. Beware that the rock around the area of the overlaps is not frequently visited and thus is dusty, licheny and loose in places.|
Alun - 05/Dec/05