Climbs 29 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 30m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Despite its vegetated appearance, a great cliff. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 45m, mostly slabby but with an abrupt overhang at 2/3 height. Recommended: Babylon (HVS 5a), Half Dome (E2 5c).

Approach notes
From Pilton Green (B4247): park on open land on the N side of the road opposite a white house. Signpost L of the house says Paviland Cave: follow path S through fields to a stile at the head of a valley. Over stile, follow the wall/fence and either jungle-bash to the cliff, or continue down the valley; traverse around the back of the inlet to the seaward buttress on the R. (20mins).

Gower Rock (2012), Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1The RingHS 4b **85
2East Gully GrooveHVS 5a **41
3ShelobHS 4b *91
4GimliVS 4c *15
5Liang Shan PoE1 5b *21
6Half DomeE2 5c **15
7The CureE4 6b 1
8TalonsE2 6a 2
9BabylonHVS 5a 26
10Middle Earth DirectVS 4c 6
11Gimli DirectE1 5b 2
12YanksE4 6c 1
13LibertyE2 5c 1
14Metal FatigueE3 6a 1
15Simple MindsVS 4c 1
16Mouse HouseE2 5c 1
17FerritHVS 5a 1
18ShrewHVS 5a 1
19RatE3 6a 1
20Middle EarthVS 4c 16
21Fellowship Of The RingE1 5c 5
22Polly's RouteVD 12
23ArmageddonHVS 5a 6
24BalrogHS 4b 2
25Marco GoloE2 5b 1
26Marco Golo DirectE3 6b 1
27Moacs Are ExtinctHVS 5a 1
28Black WidowHVS 5a 2
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Visited at the weekend for the first time in 10 years, and was slightly shocked at how overgrown it's become. Does anyone climb here these days, or is everyone too busy clipping bolts?
Simon Caldwell - 28/Aug/13
I did a topo of this cliff a few years ago. It is online at
Adrian Jones - 07/Dec/05
Hay ive found a new route on this crag u start in the big cave at the base of sherlob then climb the wall on the right and basicall follow the light ehn u come out onto a ledge and go straight up here to the top ive graded this about HS 4c but will people try the route and tell me what they think of the grade i gave it but just a little tip wear a helmet get back to me guys my email is cheers and happy climbing
will.s - 30/Apr/04