Climbs 29 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 30m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Despite its vegetated appearance, a great cliff. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 45m, mostly slabby but with an abrupt overhang at 2/3 height. Recommended: Babylon (HVS 5a), Half Dome (E2 5c).

Access notes
From Pilton Green (B4247): park on open land on the N side of the road opposite a white house. Signpost L of the house says Paviland Cave: follow path S through fields to a stile at the head of a valley. Over stile, follow the wall/fence and either jungle-bash to the cliff, or continue down the valley; traverse around the back of the inlet to the seaward buttress on the R. (20mins).

Gower Rock (2012), Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1The RingHS 4b **
2East Gully GrooveHVS 5a **
3ShelobHS 4b *
4GimliVS 4c *
5Liang Shan PoE1 5b *
6Half DomeE2 5c **
7The CureE4 6b
8TalonsE2 6a
9BabylonHVS 5a
10Middle Earth DirectVS 4c
11Gimli DirectE1 5b
12YanksE4 6c
13LibertyE2 5c
14Metal FatigueE3 6a
15Simple MindsVS 4c
16Mouse HouseE2 5c
17FerritHVS 5a
18ShrewHVS 5a
19RatE3 6a
20Middle EarthVS 4c
21Fellowship Of The RingE1 5c
22Polly's RouteVD
23ArmageddonHVS 5a
24BalrogHS 4b
25Marco GoloE2 5b
26Marco Golo DirectE3 6b
27Moacs Are ExtinctHVS 5a
28Black WidowHVS 5a
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Visited at the weekend for the first time in 10 years, and was slightly shocked at how overgrown it's become. Does anyone climb here these days, or is everyone too busy clipping bolts?
Simon Caldwell - 28/Aug/13
I did a topo of this cliff a few years ago. It is online at
Adrian Jones - 07/Dec/05
Hay ive found a new route on this crag u start in the big cave at the base of sherlob then climb the wall on the right and basicall follow the light ehn u come out onto a ledge and go straight up here to the top ive graded this about HS 4c but will people try the route and tell me what they think of the grade i gave it but just a little tip wear a helmet get back to me guys my email is cheers and happy climbing
will.s - 30/Apr/04
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 15/Sep/2014

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