Season: All year round.
Gear: Sport Rack. If you want to climb 'Crack of Dawn' you'll need a trad rack. 50m rope
The climbing: This is a great crag for beginners, with a few challenging routes for others. Crack of Dawn is a splendid crack climb for practicing trad climbing (dont anybody ever bolt it please!!)
This crag is best visited in the early morning / late afternoon as it gets direct sun during the midday and can get extremely warm. The crag generally dries out quickly after rain (one or two full days).
UKC only uses the Aussie grading system. Altough simliar to the SA system it is slighly different. eg: a 24(6c+/7a) in SA is 23 in Aus/NZ. I have used the accurate french grades that were taken from Guy Holwill's 'Western Cape Crags' and put the SA grade in the route info section.
A walk up to the top of the crag allows you clip the ring bolts to setup topropes for climbs without any lead bolts (be carefull clipping the top anchors, we recommed a safety line when doing this).
Getting there: Located above Boyes Drive. Take the M3 from Cape Town. Get onto Boyes Drive. Park on the side of the road (Boyes Drive). A short uphill walk gets you to the crag.
The crag can be identified by the pinnacle that stands away from the rock.
Western Cape Rock (2005)
|3||Crack of Dawn||F5+ **||1|
|4||Undercling Route||6a+ ***||3|
|6||Who Knows?||6a **||5|
|8||Magic Potion||6b **||1|
|THE ASTERIX WALL|
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