Climbs 55
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 370m a.s.l
Faces NE

Morning On Carl Wark © Andy Hemingway

Crag features

A discontinuous edge with short (up to 9m) routes, mainly in the lower grades, in a beautiful location above the Burbage Valley. Best routes are Lime Juice Chimney (D), Tower Wall (HVS 5b) and the rarely climbed Lost World (E6 6c).

Approach notes

Approach either from the south, starting up the Burbage Valley from the Fox House end and bearing left, or via Higgar Tor from the north, (15 min).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005)
Peak Climbs - Froggatt (1991)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left-hand Buttress 
2Lookout LedgeHVD 4b 53
3Sensory OverloadE2 6a *2
4Boulder CrackVD 4b 32
5Ingle NookVD 4a 42
6Lump WallVD 37
7Leaning CrackS 4b *31
8Boy WonderE3 6a * 
9Boy Wonder (boulder problem)
-
V1 2
10Corner and CrackHS 4b *21
11Broken ButtressHVD 4a 26
12Broken Buttress CrackHVD 4a 13
13Broken Buttress CornerD 15
14Broken Buttress ChimneyD 14
15Broken Buttress AreteHS 4a 10
16Carl's Buttress Left HandHS 4c 8
17Carl's ButtressS 5a *29
18Carl's Right WallVD 15
19The Corner
-
S 7
20The Arete
-
HVD 4a 5
21The Gloomy Corner
-
VD 7
 Right-hand Buttress 
23Layback CrackS 4a 17
242b Or Not 2bHVS 5b 3
25Chockstone CrackS 4b 12
26Chockstone Crack (right-hand start)D 3
27Chock's Away
-
HVS 5a  
28Carlos WarkosHVS 5b 1
29Art of Silence
-
E3 6a  
30Orange Juice WallVS 4b 8
31Six Pack
-
E3 6a  
32Lime Juice ChimneyHVD 4a **36
33Lime Juice Chimney Inside RouteM 5
34Not Green Flagf7A * 
35Green Flagf7B+ ** 
36Rugosity Dinksf6C * 
37Tower WallHVS 5b *1
38Lost WorldE6 6c **7
39Tower CrackHS 4b *20
40Last CrackS 4a 11
41Shart Arete Right HandV1  
42Sharp Arete WallV0+  
43J-Warkin
-
V5 9
44Rib above Hole
-
V0  
45Lost Wife CrackS 4a 1
46GeminiHVD 4a  
47Micro Midge's Dinner
-
E1 5b 1
 Guplets Wall 
49Guplets on ToastE3 6b 11
50Guplets Sit Start
-
V9 7
51Slanting Crack
-
VS 4c 1
52Rumble Groove
-
VS 4b 1
53Darkstar
-
V10  
54Pock This WayE1 5c 1
55Pock Dirty To MeE1 5c 1
56Pock and Pebble LeftE1 6a 1
57R' SpockVS 5b 1
58Mini Fridgef6A+ 1

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