A fine buttress of excellent rock, in a sunny situation and only a short distance from the road. The routes are all sport climbs (bar the original line of the cliff, Hardt klientell) and tend to be fingery and balancy rather than particularly strenuous .
The crag faces southeast and gets the sun in the morning. The rock takes no drainage and so dries rapidly after rain. The approach is non-tidal, though big seas and a high tide might make things tricky.
The crag is hidden in a secluded spot. The tall crag of Tjeldbergvika Hjornet above the road is a good marker. Park sensibly in the access road to the cycleway and follow an improving track (damp near the start) as it heads down a little valley towards the sea. After less than five minutes the boulder beach appears and the crag can be seen away to the right.
Found on the other side of the bay (left of the approach path) is a wall known as Haikjeften, with a steep overhang and a single route.
Lofoten Rock (2008)
|1||Tante Bente||5c *||15|
|2||Oves Kvalbiff||5c *||16|
|3||Hardt klientell||n7 *|
|5||Langbeins svaparadise||6a+ *||5|
|6||Fjell og vidde klatring||4c *||21|
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