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These details were last updated on 28/Feb/2011

Ballykeefe Quarry

Kilkenny, IRELAND

Climbs 96 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
The climbs are in a disused limestone quarry 12 miles SW of Kilkenny. It is a pleasant wooded area and the quarry has been cleaned up to create an amenity area. The majority of the routes are 7-10m high, a few in double figures. Grades up to E3. Bolts have been used but this is not a sport climbing cliff.

Guidebooks
Ballykeefe Quarry Rock Climbing Guide (2002)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1SylvesterVD 3
2AristotleHS 4b 7
3Bill and BenS 4a 5
4PlatoHS 4b 4
5Steering WheelHS 4b 5
6Oggy and the CockroachesVS 4c *13
7GTXHS 4b 5
8Cadet CrackHS 4b 4
9Crooked CrackVD 3
10First CornerVD 2
11CliffhangerHVS 5a 4
12Kestrel CrackE1 5b 3
13The Eiger Sanction6a 5
14Kevin's CornerHVS 5a 7
15The Animal6b+ 3
16Aardvark5+ 2
17Rosehip CrackVS 5a 3
18The Pope's NoseHS 4b 2
19The VaticanVS 4c 3
20Paradise CrackHS 4b 2
21Dented EgoHS 4b 4
22NailbreakerHS 4b 2
23Lady JaneHVS 5a 4
24Push your grannyHS 4c **9
25Cut the TreeHS 4b 2
26Sally CrackS 4a 4
27Painted LadyHVS 5a 6
28Knock Airport6a+ 3
29Soap GutHS 2
30White Elephant Direct6a 5
31Stinger6b 3
32Mt. Rushmore5+ 4
33The Brendan Voyage5 2
34Zig and ZagHS 1
35The Teaser6a 2
36Broken StairsVS 4c 3
37Abednego *HVS 5a  
38Ford Wall *E1 5b  
39Rugrats *VD  
40Jim Crack *VD  
41Miss Piggy *E1 5b  
42Pigeon *E2 5c  
43Cats *E3 5c  
44The Last Pig *E3 6a  
45Makin' Whoopee *E1 5c  
46Rosehip Crack - Direct Finish *VS 5a  
47Easy Street *E2 5c  
48Undercut Alley *E1 5c  
 Climb nameGradex
49Undercut Alley - Direct Start *E1 6a  
50Ichabod *E2 5c  
51Slab Direct *HS 4a  
52Slab RHS *HS 4a  
53Shadrach *HVS 5a  
54Meshach *HVS 5a  
55Bishop's Nose *S 4a 1
56Clover *S 4a  
57The Pooka *HVS 5b  
58Disc *E1 5c  
59Spreadeagle *E2 5c  
60Ascent Route *D  
61Apres Mars *E2 6a  
62Open Book *E1 5b  
63The Prow *E1 5c  
64Indian Summer *E2 5c  
65Gecko *E3 6b  
66Komodo *E2 5c  
67Purging Flax *HS 4c  
68Empire State *E2 5c  
69Blackstonia *E1 5b  
70The Hen's Nest *E1 5b  
71Blood on the tracks *E2 5c  
72Evening Press Reissue *HS 1
73Ascent Route Direct *S  
74Feddan *VS 5a  
75Palatine Street *VS 4c  
76The Whangie *S 4a  
77Melanophy's *HS 4b  
78Visions of Johanna *HS 4b  
79Ezekiel Saw a Wheel *VS 5a  
80Ain't it just like the Night *HVS 5a  
81Louise *VS 4c  
82Key Chain *HS 4b  
83Small Talk at the Wall *S 4a  
84Jane's Granny *S 4a  
85Jane's Aunt *S 4a  
86Monkey's Tail *S 4a 1
87Sally's Crack Upper *VD  
88Widowmaker *HVS 5b  
89Twinkletoes *E1 5c  
90Gromwell *E2 5c  
91Fear Breage Ascent Route *D  
92Central Crack *VD  
93Fear Breage's Toenail *E1 5b  
94Tom Joad *E1 5a  
95Preacher Casey *E1 5b  
96Jenga *S  

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Access notes
Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.

There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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