Climbs 97
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Matt Davis on Gecko © m_p_davis

Crag features

The climbs are in a disused limestone quarry 12 miles SW of Kilkenny. It is a pleasant wooded area and the quarry has been cleaned up to create an amenity area. The majority of the routes are 7-10m high, a few in double figures. Grades up to E3. Bolts have been used but this is not a sport climbing cliff.

Approach notes

Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.

There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1SylvesterVD 5
2Aristotle
-
HS 4b 7
3Bill and Ben
-
S 4a 9
4Plato
-
HS 4b 4
5Steering Wheel
-
HS 4b 5
6Oggy and the CockroachesVS 4c *15
7GTX
-
HS 4b 7
8Cadet Crack
-
HS 4b 4
9Crooked Crack
-
VD 5
10First Corner
-
VD 4
11CliffhangerHVS 5a 5
12Kestrel Crack
-
E1 5b 4
13The Eiger Sanction6a 6
14Kevin's CornerHVS 5a 12
15The Animal6b+ 6
16Aardvark
-
5c 4
17Rosehip Crack
-
VS 5a 3
18The Pope's Nose
-
HS 4b 2
19The Vatican
-
VS 4c 3
20Paradise Crack
-
HS 4b 4
21Dented Ego
-
HS 4b 6
22Nailbreaker
-
HS 4b 2
23Lady Jane
-
HVS 5a 5
24Push your grannyHS 4c **10
25Cut the Tree
-
HS 4b 3
26Sally Crack
-
S 4a 4
27Painted Lady
-
HVS 5a 6
28Knock Airport6a+ 3
29Soap Gut
-
HS 2
30White Elephant Direct6a 7
31Stinger6b 3
32Mt. Rushmore5c 4
33The Brendan Voyage5a 2
34Zig and Zag
-
HS 1
35The Teaser6a 2
36Broken StairsVS 4c 4
37Abednego
-
HVS 5a  
38Ford Wall
-
E1 5b  
39Rugrats
-
VD  
40Jim Crack
-
VD  
41Miss Piggy
-
6a  
42Pigeon
-
6b  
43Cats
-
6b+  
44The Last Pig
-
6b+ 2
45Makin' Whoopee
-
6b  
46Rosehip Crack - Direct Finish
-
VS 5a  
47Easy Street
-
6a+  
48Undercut Alley
-
E1 5c  
49Undercut Alley - Direct Start
-
6a  
50Ichabod
-
6b  
51Slab Direct
-
HS 4a  
52Slab RHS
-
HS 4a  
53Shadrach
-
HVS 5a  
54Meshach
-
HVS 5a 1
55Bishop's Nose
-
4a 2
56Clover
-
S 4a 2
57The Pooka
-
6a  
58Disc
-
6a  
59Spreadeagle
-
6b 1
60Ascent Route
-
D 2
61Apres Mars
-
6b  
62Open Book
-
6a  
63The Prow
-
6b  
64Indian Summer6b  
65Gecko7a 1
66Komodo6b  

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