Ballykeefe Quarry

Climbs 97 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
The climbs are in a disused limestone quarry 12 miles SW of Kilkenny. It is a pleasant wooded area and the quarry has been cleaned up to create an amenity area. The majority of the routes are 7-10m high, a few in double figures. Grades up to E3. Bolts have been used but this is not a sport climbing cliff.

Access notes
Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.

There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.

Guidebooks
Ballykeefe Quarry Rock Climbing Guide (2002)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1SylvesterVD
2AristotleHS 4b
3Bill and BenS 4a
4PlatoHS 4b
5Steering WheelHS 4b
6Oggy and the CockroachesVS 4c *
7GTXHS 4b
8Cadet CrackHS 4b
9Crooked CrackVD
10First CornerVD
11CliffhangerHVS 5a
12Kestrel CrackE1 5b
13The Eiger Sanction6a
14Kevin's CornerHVS 5a
15The Animal6b+
16Aardvark5c
17Rosehip CrackVS 5a
18The Pope's NoseHS 4b
19The VaticanVS 4c
20Paradise CrackHS 4b
21Dented EgoHS 4b
22NailbreakerHS 4b
23Lady JaneHVS 5a
24Push your grannyHS 4c **
25Cut the TreeHS 4b
26Sally CrackS 4a
27Painted LadyHVS 5a
28Knock Airport6a+
29Soap GutHS
30White Elephant Direct6a
31Stinger6b
32Mt. Rushmore5c
33The Brendan Voyage5a
34Zig and ZagHS
35The Teaser6a
36Broken StairsVS 4c
37AbednegoHVS 5a
38Ford WallE1 5b
39RugratsVD
40Jim CrackVD
41Miss Piggy6a
42Pigeon6b
43Cats6b+
44The Last Pig6b+
45Makin' Whoopee6b
46Rosehip Crack - Direct FinishVS 5a
47Easy Street6a+
48Undercut AlleyE1 5c
49Undercut Alley - Direct Start6a
50Ichabod6b
51Slab DirectHS 4a
52Slab RHSHS 4a
53ShadrachHVS 5a
54MeshachHVS 5a
55Bishop's Nose4a
56CloverS 4a
57The Pooka6a
58Disc6a
59Spreadeagle6b
60Ascent RouteD
61Apres Mars6b
62Open Book6a
63The Prow6b
64Indian Summer6b
65Gecko7a
66Komodo6b
67Purging FlaxHS 4c
68Empire State6b
69Blackstonia6b
70The Hen's Nest6b
71Blood on the tracks6b
72Evening Press ReissueHS
73Ascent Route DirectS
74FeddanVS 5a
75Palatine StreetVS 4c
76The WhangieS 4a
77Melanophy'sHS 4b
78Visions of JohannaHS 4b
79Ezekiel Saw a WheelVS 5a
80Ain't it just like the NightHVS 5a
81LouiseVS 4c
82Key ChainHS 4b
83Small Talk at the WallS 4a
84Jane's GrannyS 4a
85Jane's AuntS 4a
86Monkey's TailS 4a
87Sally's Crack UpperVD
88WidowmakerHVS 5b
89Twinkletoes6a
90Gromwell6a
91Fear Breage Ascent RouteD
92Central CrackVD
93Fear Breage's ToenailD
94Tom JoadVS
95Preacher CaseyVS
96JengaS
97Kevin's Corner Direct *6a
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer colenn

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