Ballykeefe Quarry

Climbs 97 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
The climbs are in a disused limestone quarry 12 miles SW of Kilkenny. It is a pleasant wooded area and the quarry has been cleaned up to create an amenity area. The majority of the routes are 7-10m high, a few in double figures. Grades up to E3. Bolts have been used but this is not a sport climbing cliff.

Approach notes
Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.

There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.

Ballykeefe Quarry Rock Climbing Guide (2002)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1SylvesterVD 5
2AristotleHS 4b 7
3Bill and BenS 4a 9
4PlatoHS 4b 4
5Steering WheelHS 4b 5
6Oggy and the CockroachesVS 4c *15
7GTXHS 4b 7
8Cadet CrackHS 4b 4
9Crooked CrackVD 5
10First CornerVD 4
11CliffhangerHVS 5a 5
12Kestrel CrackE1 5b 3
13The Eiger Sanction6a 5
14Kevin's CornerHVS 5a 10
15The Animal6b+ 5
16Aardvark5c 4
17Rosehip CrackVS 5a 3
18The Pope's NoseHS 4b 2
19The VaticanVS 4c 3
20Paradise CrackHS 4b 4
21Dented EgoHS 4b 6
22NailbreakerHS 4b 2
23Lady JaneHVS 5a 5
24Push your grannyHS 4c **10
25Cut the TreeHS 4b 3
26Sally CrackS 4a 4
27Painted LadyHVS 5a 6
28Knock Airport6a+ 3
29Soap GutHS 2
30White Elephant Direct6a 7
31Stinger6b 3
32Mt. Rushmore5c 4
33The Brendan Voyage5a 2
34Zig and ZagHS 1
35The Teaser6a 2
36Broken StairsVS 4c 4
37AbednegoHVS 5a  
38Ford WallE1 5b  
40Jim CrackVD  
41Miss Piggy6a  
44The Last Pig6b+ 1
45Makin' Whoopee6b  
46Rosehip Crack - Direct FinishVS 5a  
47Easy Street6a+  
48Undercut AlleyE1 5c  
49Undercut Alley - Direct Start6a  
51Slab DirectHS 4a  
52Slab RHSHS 4a  
53ShadrachHVS 5a  
54MeshachHVS 5a 1
55Bishop's Nose4a 2
56CloverS 4a 2
57The Pooka6a  
59Spreadeagle6b 1
60Ascent RouteD 2
61Apres Mars6b  
62Open Book6a  
63The Prow6b  
64Indian Summer6b  
65Gecko7a 1
67Purging FlaxHS 4c  
68Empire State6b  
70The Hen's Nest6b  
71Blood on the tracks6b  
72Evening Press ReissueHS 1
73Ascent Route DirectS  
74FeddanVS 5a  
75Palatine StreetVS 4c  
76The WhangieS 4a  
77Melanophy'sHS 4b  
78Visions of JohannaHS 4b  
79Ezekiel Saw a WheelVS 5a  
80Ain't it just like the NightHVS 5a  
81LouiseVS 4c  
82Key ChainHS 4b 2
83Small Talk at the WallS 4a 2
84Jane's GrannyS 4a  
85Jane's AuntS 4a  
86Monkey's TailS 4a 1
87Sally's Crack UpperVD  
88WidowmakerHVS 5b  
91Fear Breage Ascent RouteD  
92Central CrackVD  
93Fear Breage's ToenailD  
94Tom JoadVS  
95Preacher CaseyVS  
97Kevin's Corner Direct6a 1
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer colenn

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.