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These details were last updated on 04/Dec/2013

Heighley Castle Quarries

Staffordshire, ENGLAND

Climbs 35 – Rocktype Sandstone (soft) – Altitude 170m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
This quarried face is relatively unused and not recommended for people living a great distance from it. The condition of the rock is poor as it's covered in moss; the top of the rock provides little protection for belaying. However on dry days this crag is recommended for local climbers without access to the Peak district. [Frank Morgan 7/03]

Access notes
Walk up the farmer's lane for about 100 meters. The rockface is off to the right and split into 4 tiers. There is a sign stating "all climbing prohibited", so discretion is advised.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Tue  Wed  Thu  Fri 

1.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
19 °C
15 kph

0.3mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
18 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
13 kph

1.3mm rain
Sunny periods
19 °C
9 kph

2.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
18 °C
14 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Peak District & Yorkshire Dales

Guidebooks
Peak Bouldering (2014), Staffordshire Grit - The Roaches (2004),
Out of print: Peak Bouldering - Fax09 (1998), Bouldering in the Peak District Vol 2 (1994), Staffordshire Gritstone (1989)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Ivy LeagueV1  
2Dixon's Dart BoardV3  
3Upper TraverseV2 ** 
4Lower TraverseV4 **1
5Morning GloryV3 **2
6Gillete Gets CloserV4 2
7Sleeping with SarahE1 5c  
8The CornerV0 *2
9Right WallV0 *1
10Bill's XSV4 * 
11Ecstasy 1V1  
12Punch AreteV5 ** 
13The SerpentV5  
14The Heighley NightmareV4 ** 
15Killer WallV3  
16Jess' CornerV1  
 Climb nameGradex
17Alan's VariantV1 1
18Second but Last AreteV2 ***1
19Second but First AreteV4 ***1
20The mark of ZorroV0 *2
21Southern SloperV0  
225b AreteV1  
23Fresher's AreteV1  
24Stepped AreteV0 1
25Slim CornerV1 * 
26Suicide WallE5  
27Pheasant AreteE5 6a *** 
28Fingers 1mV9 ** 
29Fingers 2mV6 **1
30Fingers 3mV4 ** 
31Hilti GunnerV1  
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Alan Blakeman

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Having started climbing at Heighley in 1964 (lotsa virgin/ overgrown - more than now - rock) I still have a great passion for the place. Just become crag moderator - but due to zoom off to Vietnam for a month - so not much progress in the short term. Intend to visit & photograph in the 'fall' and begin some updating - and attempting to remedy all the misnaming from the last guide book. Any emails welcomed. Meanwhile - try to get a sesh' over there and do a bit of cleaning on each visit - before getting pumped in the last great bouldering bay!
Alan Blakeman - 16/Dec/13

Prior to the advent of modern climbing walls Heighley was used extensively for top roping and bouldering by members of the South Cheshire Climbing Club. Regular use meant it was cleaner than now. It's a pleasant location (particularly with the spring bluebells). I well remember being that pumped after a session at Heighley that I could not pull in the clutch on my Triumph Bonneville on the way home! Al Blakeman produced a guide in 1973 (I still have a copy Al!).The routes in recent guides do not correspond to the naming in Al's guide and are therefore wrong!!
Darron - 16/Dec/13

Although the crag photos below look truly rubbish, there are actually some real gems here.
Paulos - 04/Mar/10

Could be a nice crag with a wire brush and some regular activity... Could be even better with some nepam... Still OK for a (quiet) hour learning the fricative qualities of moss. S
simonjudge - 12/Dec/05

Update > I am not sure but their may be another tier to the left of the track as well. The off putting factor is that this was directly in from of the farm apart from a few trees and therefore, I didnít want to venture as to antagonise the farmer. I believe the face is EAST facing. I have uploaded a few photo's so hopefully this should give people an idea. Cheers - James
JamesM - 26/Apr/05

Access to this crag is via "Heighley Lane" which is after Maidley on the left. You pass the farm on the left and continue another 100 yards to a few small lay-byís. (Park Here) After the farm there is a welcoming track, although signposted "Climbing Prohibited". The crag is actually to the right of the track not to the left as the access notes suggest (100 meters). I will try and post some pics on here as I have taken a few as of 25/4/05. There is about 4 tiers, although along the same level, broken by trees. All following along to your right. Only the first two seem worth while. The first tier is great for an hours bouldering (lunch break) from Stoke or Crewe. Nice traverse line and flat soft bottom, Second is slightly higher, with marking's on wall "6B". Lots of pheasants about so im not sure how the farmer would take it if one was caught. As previously stated, discretion advised.
JamesM - 26/Apr/05