Recent rebolting (initiated by Adrian Berry and funded by the South Wales Mountaineering Club) has made the crag a top spot for thuggish sport climbers. It is an especially useful winter and evening crag because it dries fairly quickly in the afternoon and is only a stones throw from Swansea town.
The left hand part of the crag is non-tidal. There is much variation between the routes, but generally, they get steeper to the left, culminating in the extremely overhanging ''Rampage''. The cliff also becomes more blocky and loose looking the further left you travel, however, the looseness is restricted to areas between the routes and the established climbs have all been well trundled.
The right hand part of the crag extends from ''Rain Dance'' onwards. All the routes follow a similar theme of; an initial steep, wave-washed wall capped by a very wide roof, the main difficulties involve breaching the roof and pulling onto the delightfully rough slab above. This part of the crag is tidal.
A quicker approach for locals is from the clifftop path from Rotherslade. Visitors should follow the B4433 through Mumbles to park at the Limeslade bay. This is just west of the Mumbles headland (GR627872), it has a small ice cream parlour/cafe above it. Walk west along the coastal path for about 500m until it starts to climb up some steps. The top of the steps is are directly above the crag. Descent to the crag is either down the west (right when facing seaward) side of the bay on a steep path, or by abseiling down on from stakes above the east side.
|LEFT HAND (NON-TIDAL)|
|3||The Constant Gardener||6c+ **||13|
|4||Air Display||7a+ **||1|
|5||The Cool Crux Clan||7a *||14|
|6||Ride the funky wave babe direct||7a **||16|
|RIGHT HAND (TIDAL)|
|8||Rain Dance||7b *||1|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|I visited the crag for the first time yesterday and we found a bit of a division on the quality of the routes. Everything left of of Air Display inclusive goes through some partially loose, steep blocky terrain which didn't inspire us at all. Conversely everything right of The Cool Crux Clan inclusive looks very good quality and hard. Will definitely return though|
partz - 04/Mar/13