Climbs 60
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 238m a.s.l
Faces S

John Henry Quarry - In-di-go (above climbers head) © cmgcmg

Crag features

Worth a visit if linked with Hobson Moor quarry. Most routes are in the low to middle grades up to 25m high. Slightly vegetated/damp in places, choose a dry spell. Best routes are Crikey Crack (VS 4c),Desperate Straights (E2 5b) and Rated Steep (E2 5c).

Access Advice

Kestrel occasionally nest near Ferny-lee Crack - if you see the birds, please avoid routes in this area between 1st March - 30th June.

Watch out for the birds nest 3/4 of the way up. Nothing in it at the min but could cause you problems in summer great climbing and very quiet
Frank1tank - 01/Apr/12
the 'suspicious flake' on the route "fragile" is now gone, although there is still some very sandy rock.
Dan Lane - 01/Apr/10
Bypass is no longer going to cut through the quarry!!!
cmgcmg - 18/May/09
Investigated this place and followed Chris Ovens directions. It is far more extensive than his descriptions suggest. The location of this venue is shown as Holybank Quarry on the os map. I'm sure this is the same venue as John Henry Quarry aka Hollybank Quarry on the BMC rad.
popebenedictus - 19/Dec/07
Description seems to fit Holybank Quarry (SK026976)
popebenedictus - 04/Oct/07
Due to be cut in half by a bypass that will be built in 2008-2010 unless itis stopped!
cmgcmg - 31/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1PotS 7
2Gallon ChimneyVD 9
3Pot FullS 6
4Two 'alves
-
VS 4c 3
5Gumboot Groove
-
HVD 5
6Goldfinger
-
HVS 5a 5
7Bloodfinger
-
HVS 5b  
8Fragile
-
E1 5a  
9In-di-goHVD 5a 6
10The Chopping Block
-
E2 5c * 
11Crikey CrackVS 4c *32
12Robbo's CrackHVS 5a 14
13Platform CrackVS 4c 5
14Ceiling Crack
-
HVS 5a  
15Short Crack
-
VS 4c 3
16Tick-tock Crack
-
S 4
17Tick-tock GrooveHVD 1
18Thin Jim's DilemmaE1 5b ***15
1947 Not Out
-
E1 5b *3
20Lizard Arete
-
HS 1
21Twin Grooves
-
HS 1
22Desperate Straights
-
E2 5b ***3
23Rated Steep
-
E2 5c **2
24Ferny-lee CrackE1 5b *9
25Cragster
-
E3 5c  
26Rising Damp
-
E2 5c  
27O-mi-gosh RidgeS 4b *7
28Balcony RidgeVS 4c 2
29Xanadu Crack
-
HVS 5b  
30Kestrel CornerVS 4c 3
31Aurora BorealisE2 5b **1
32Gyro
-
HVS 5b *3
33Ear to Ear
-
HVS 5a 2
34Vivisector's CornerHS 2
35Fernacious
-
E1 5b 4
36Fern Route (A)VS 4c 3
37Fern Route (B)
-
VS 4c 2
38Bioscope SlabVS 4c 7
39Bioscope Edge
-
E1 5a *1
40Auto-da-fe
-
E1 5a  
41Yellow GashS *14
42Yellow Hole Wall
-
E1 5b 2
43Corner Crack
-
VS 5a 2
44Red Retch Crack
-
VS 4c  
45Red Biddy
-
HS  
46Old Biddy
-
HS  
47Pinky
-
HVD  
48Never Mind The Bollocks, Here's The John Henry Quarry Girdle Tra
-
E3 5b,5c,  
49lets twist againHVS 5c  
50Jim's Gym'll fix it *E5 6b ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer cmgcmg