Climbs 60
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 238m a.s.l
Faces S

John Henry Quarry - In-di-go (above climbers head) © cmgcmg

Crag features

Worth a visit if linked with Hobson Moor quarry. Most routes are in the low to middle grades up to 25m high. Slightly vegetated/damp in places, choose a dry spell. Best routes are Crikey Crack (VS 4c),Desperate Straights (E2 5b) and Rated Steep (E2 5c).

Access Advice

Kestrel occasionally nest near Ferny-lee Crack - if you see the birds, please avoid routes in this area between 1st March - 30th June.

Watch out for the birds nest 3/4 of the way up. Nothing in it at the min but could cause you problems in summer great climbing and very quiet
Frank1tank - 01/Apr/12
the 'suspicious flake' on the route "fragile" is now gone, although there is still some very sandy rock.
Dan Lane - 01/Apr/10
Bypass is no longer going to cut through the quarry!!!
cmgcmg - 18/May/09
Investigated this place and followed Chris Ovens directions. It is far more extensive than his descriptions suggest. The location of this venue is shown as Holybank Quarry on the os map. I'm sure this is the same venue as John Henry Quarry aka Hollybank Quarry on the BMC rad.
popebenedictus - 19/Dec/07
Description seems to fit Holybank Quarry (SK026976)
popebenedictus - 04/Oct/07
Due to be cut in half by a bypass that will be built in 2008-2010 unless itis stopped!
cmgcmg - 31/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1PotS 7
2Gallon ChimneyVD 9
3Pot FullS 6
4Two 'alves
VS 4c 3
5Gumboot Groove
HVS 5a 5
HVS 5b  
E1 5a  
9In-di-goHVD 5a 6
10The Chopping Block
E2 5c * 
11Crikey CrackVS 4c *32
12Robbo's CrackHVS 5a 14
13Platform CrackVS 4c 5
14Ceiling Crack
HVS 5a  
15Short Crack
VS 4c 3
16Tick-tock Crack
S 4
17Tick-tock GrooveHVD 1
18Thin Jim's DilemmaE1 5b ***15
1947 Not Out
E1 5b *3
20Lizard Arete
HS 1
21Twin Grooves
HS 1
22Desperate Straights
E2 5b ***3
23Rated Steep
E2 5c **2
24Ferny-lee CrackE1 5b *9
E3 5c  
26Rising Damp
E2 5c  
27O-mi-gosh RidgeS 4b *7
28Balcony RidgeVS 4c 2
29Xanadu Crack
HVS 5b  
30Kestrel CornerVS 4c 3
31Aurora BorealisE2 5b **1
HVS 5b *3
33Ear to Ear
HVS 5a 2
34Vivisector's CornerHS 2
E1 5b 4
36Fern Route (A)VS 4c 3
37Fern Route (B)
VS 4c 2
38Bioscope SlabVS 4c 7
39Bioscope Edge
E1 5a *1
E1 5a  
41Yellow GashS *14
42Yellow Hole Wall
E1 5b 2
43Corner Crack
VS 5a 2
44Red Retch Crack
VS 4c  
45Red Biddy
46Old Biddy
48Never Mind The Bollocks, Here's The John Henry Quarry Girdle Tra
E3 5b,5c,  
49lets twist againHVS 5c  
50Jim's Gym'll fix it *E5 6b ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer cmgcmg