John Henry Quarry

Climbs 60 – Rocktype Grit (quarried) – Altitude 238m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

Worth a visit if linked with Hobson Moor quarry. Most routes are in the low to middle grades up to 25m high. Slightly vegetated/damp in places, choose a dry spell. Best routes are Crikey Crack (VS 4c),Desperate Straights (E2 5b) and Rated Steep (E2 5c).

Access notes

Kestrel occasionally nest near Ferny-lee Crack - if you see the birds, please avoid routes in this area between 1st March - 30th June.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Over the Moors (2012), Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1PotS 7
2Gallon ChimneyVD 9
3Pot FullS 6
4Two 'alvesVS 4c 3
5Gumboot GrooveHVD 5
6GoldfingerHVS 5a 5
7BloodfingerHVS 5b  
8FragileE1 5a  
9In-di-goHVD 5a 6
10The Chopping BlockE2 5c * 
11Crikey CrackVS 4c *32
12Robbo's CrackHVS 5a 14
13Platform CrackVS 4c 5
14Ceiling CrackHVS 5a  
15Short CrackVS 4c 2
16Tick-tock CrackS 3
17Tick-tock GrooveHVD 1
18Thin Jim's DilemmaE1 5b ***13
1947 Not OutE1 5b *3
20Lizard AreteHS 1
21Twin GroovesHS 1
22Desperate StraightsE2 5b ***2
23Rated SteepE2 5c **2
24Ferny-lee CrackE1 5b *8
25CragsterE3 5c  
26Rising DampE2 5c  
27O-mi-gosh RidgeS 4b *6
28Balcony RidgeVS 4c 2
29Xanadu CrackHVS 5b  
30Kestrel CornerVS 4c 3
31Aurora BorealisE2 5b **1
32GyroHVS 5b *3
33Ear to EarHVS 5a 2
34Vivisector's CornerHS 2
35FernaciousE1 5b 4
36Fern Route (A)VS 4c 3
37Fern Route (B)VS 4c 2
38Bioscope SlabVS 4c 7
39Bioscope EdgeE1 5a * 
40Auto-da-feE1 5a  
41Yellow GashS *14
42Yellow Hole WallE1 5b 2
43Corner CrackVS 5a 2
44Red Retch CrackVS 4c  
45Red BiddyHS  
46Old BiddyHS  
48Never Mind The Bollocks, Here's The John Henry Quarry Girdle TraE3 5b,5c,  
49lets twist againHVS 5c  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer cmgcmg

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Watch out for the birds nest 3/4 of the way up. Nothing in it at the min but could cause you problems in summer great climbing and very quiet
Frank1tank - 01/Apr/12
the 'suspicious flake' on the route "fragile" is now gone, although there is still some very sandy rock.
Dan Lane - 01/Apr/10
Bypass is no longer going to cut through the quarry!!!
cmgcmg - 18/May/09
Investigated this place and followed Chris Ovens directions. It is far more extensive than his descriptions suggest. The location of this venue is shown as Holybank Quarry on the os map. I'm sure this is the same venue as John Henry Quarry aka Hollybank Quarry on the BMC rad.
popebenedictus - 19/Dec/07
Description seems to fit Holybank Quarry (SK026976)
popebenedictus - 04/Oct/07
Due to be cut in half by a bypass that will be built in 2008-2010 unless itis stopped!
cmgcmg - 31/Mar/06