A minor sport crag for those sport climbers who have done everything below 7a+ and can't climb harder. Good rock, but only 8m high. Of local interest only. Ironically, the only worthwhile route is the girdle, a trad E4 6a, Corridors of Power. Look out for brambles!
Take the first road on the right, after leaving Matlock southwards (nearly opposite the pay-and-display car park). Park just before the end of the road on the left, just short of a track leading left. Follow the track for 200m then branch left to follow a signed footpath(Matlock Bath). This leads into a dip then up some steps. Continue to more steps are in sight, but head downhill 10m before reaching the steps. A sort-of-path leads down and leftwards to the crag.
|1||New Routes and Panties||E5 6a||4|
|3||The Return to Victorian Standards||6a+||6|
|4||Paddy Pantsdown||E5 6b||2|
|5||Cynthia Pain's Three Line Whip||6c+ *||3|
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|I've updated the grid reference and moved the bubble|
Mark Lloyd - 01/Oct/08
|The map with the balloons shows this crag in completely the wrong place! (Next to High Tor Left Wing)|
Graham Hoey - 01/Oct/08