As with all of the quarries round here access is officially not allowed, so keep a low profile and if asked to leave, please do so.
Somehow reminiscent of climbing on a sea cliff! Generally very good rock, routes up to 28m long, a secluded sunny venue with instant access. Some routes can be dusty after rain, but generally does not detract from the climbing.
Rebolted and lower-offs fitted recently.
Leave Wirksworth on the Cromford Road. Turn left into Wirksworth Industrial Centre (Ravenstor Road), and at a mini-roundabout turn right - to a gate. The entrance is just in front, amongst some trees.
The quarry is part of the National Stone Centre and climbing is best left until the evenings.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
|4||Posing till the End||5c *||170|
|5||I am a Poser and I Don't Care||5c *||179|
|6||Garth was 'ere||6a *||152|
|7||In Vision||6a+ *||100|
|8||Out-a-Sight, Out-a-Mind||6a+ *||62|
|10||Above 30||7b *||15|
|11||Just This Side of 30||7a *||56|
|12||Taste the Grit||6b+ *||77|
|BLUE SKY WALLS|
|14||What a Pity||6b||51|
|15||Slate Gray Lining||5c||66|
|16||Swooping on Nigel's Ruby||5c||94|
|17||The Desperation of Freedonia||6a||97|
|18||The Reincarnation Of Catatonia||6a||61|
|19||The Execution of Dysphasia||6a||62|
|20||A Revolution for Dyspepsia||6b||43|
|21||The Destitution of Threedonia||6b+||17|
|22||The Evolution of Micradia||5c *||97|
|23||The One in Ten||6a+ *||33|
|25||The Booze Cruise||6b+ *||44|
|26||Cruisin' for a Boozin||6b+ *||40|
|27||The Crinoid Cruise Direct||E3 5c *||3|
|28||See Me Coming (LH Start)||6c+||6|
|29||See Me Coming||6c *||61|
|30||The Scarlet Woman||6b *||97|
|32||Alligator Crawl (aka Alligator Smiles)||6a+ *||93|
|33||Tolley put the Kettle On||6c||20|
|35||Forbidden Fruit||6b+ *||84|
|36||Another Roadside Attraction||6a *||215|
|37||Old King Colehill||6c *||61|
|38||It's a Hamster Mr. Fawlty||6a+ *||113|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|The quarry is in really good shape and access really easy. No hassle from anybody and even had a few walkers stop and watch a couple of climbs.|
Climber1988 - 30/Jul/15
|some rock fall including a bolt has happened on destitution on threedonia 6b+|
goodboy - 26/Mar/12
|P.S. Routes are well bolted here. Bolts next to cruxes and no random run-outs. Which is nice.|
Fiend - 08/May/09
|Climbed here May 2009, knowing full well access is banned, but also heeding the comment below and my partner's suggestion that the access situation wasn't that bad. As below, no warning signs and no interference despite a few teams at the quarry. Also heard that negotiations have fizzled out and only one person at the Stone Centre had any serious objections to climbing.
Anyway, it's an okay evening venue, not one of the better lime sport quarries, but still some fun routes and a good workout.|
Fiend - 07/May/09
|Climbed here July 2008 , not knowing access is banned. There are no signs up anywhere and you can just walk in. It was a damp weekday evening and we were pretty discrete. It looks like a lot of the bolts have recently been replaced and there has been some removal of loose rock. A good local venue and worth a visit if you are in the area.|
Pilch - 18/Jul/08