Shoreditch Park Boulder

Climbs 30 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 17m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Two Hackney green spaces are now permanent homes to two massive pieces of solid granite, each weighing up to 100 tonnes and measuring over four metres high. Boulder 1 (Shoreditch Park) and Boulder 2 (Mabley Green) together form Boulder, an ambitious public realm sculpture project by John Frankland. The launch of this work marks the completion of the second phase of the regeneration of Shoreditch Park and will be a focal point for this year's Shoreditch Festival.

In addition to their presence in the Hackney urban landscape as subtle yet iconic landmark works, Frankland intends that people should engage with the boulders in a direct and physical way through rock climbing, or "bouldering". A keen and expereinced climber himself, Frankland considers physical contact with the rock as a way of energising or activating the work, as well as a way of playfully debunking the notion of those sculptures in park settings, which are often fenced off or prominently labelled as "not to be touched".

Access notes
Parking on Rushton Street. Probably not a good idea to leave valuables on shown in the car - you are in London, not Cornwall. Nearest tube - Old Street, 15min walk, but plenty of buses stop next to the park.

Climbs at this crag

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer olliecamel

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Amended Mulvany Problem to V4 based on votes and experience
Radical-G - 14/Nov/10
Borehole wall now V0+ given removal of first set of boreholes. Probably still V0- for the very tall who can reach the first hole!
Radical-G - 27/Sep/10
I've amended the grade for Inner City Riots to V3, I think everyone I know who has sent it will agreed (and probably anyone who has tried and failed would as well!).
Radical-G - 23/Sep/10
First 4 boreholes on west face have been filled in and the bore hole on the east face! Why oh why? Kids getting stuck?? Also the problems seem undergaded me thinks...
jules699 - 27/Jul/09
Hi all! I'm not sure which problem I did http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EtNswuqWZYg Could it be Inner City Riots V2? Much harder for me than I C Pressure (V2 as well)
NEKromantiK - 14/Jul/09
Seems to be a bit of confusion in the problem descriptions between East and West. I have tried a couple of edits, but don't want to make a mess of people's descriptions...
Hugeos - 04/Jun/09
Never mind my comment about the description of the climbs ... Cheers!
dycotiles - 01/Jan/09
Great climbing. Great rock. Really worth a look. The Mabley Green boulder would perhaps offer more easier climbs. The `easy' climbs here are more challenging. It seems the lower boreholes have been filled, making the easiest route V0+. We should get more boulders like this in London! The slab at the centre can be climbed direct at about V1. The description of the climbs here do not make that much sense, what is a right arete? It depends at which face you're looking at, please correct this ...
dycotiles - 31/Dec/08
The SE arete direct is definatly V7 or harder, i,ve done all but the top move to the 'jug'. This will go once the weather cools. the south face has also seen some close shaves from other east end climbers and seems harder to me - also likely to go should the psyche allow it!
sparkass - 12/Nov/08
Happy to have any contributions - I won't however be estblishing any V7 lines myself :-).
TRNovice - 29/Oct/08
I think there are loads more problems on this boulder,probally going up to V7ish. I cant find much info/ beta beyond the obvious lines but Im thinking this page needs a serious update so us London climbers can make the most out of what little we have...
TokyoFixedGear - 29/Oct/08
UKC Disambiguation service: For the Mabley Green Boulder see http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9499
TRNovice - 23/Sep/08
My thoughts on the boulder here: http://77jenn.blogspot.com/2008/09/shoreditch-bouldering.html
Jenn - 22/Sep/08
Some of the probelms here were in all probability sent (and maybe named) before the person who has suggested the current names. If you are particularly bent out of shape over this, please send me a mail and I will rectify. Also I would be happy to get information about other lines - particularly those from the climbing competition on 15th or 16th September 2008. For other details please also see: - http://www.shoreditchbouldering.blogspot.com/
TRNovice - 22/Sep/08