Kullaberg is a small peninsula located in the North West corner of County Skåne in the far south of Sweden. Kullaberg offers some of the best climbing in the area and can be described as exposed to weather and wind due to the fact that the crag is very close to the sea.
Kullaberg consists of circa 50 walls, mainly located on the north and south costal areas of the peninsula, with around 800 routes. The routes are manly trad in the D to E1 range but also contain bolted sports routes up to Swedish grade 8.
The exposure of frost and ice during winter has a tendency to crack parts of the crag, especially on the north face. Therefore is helmet and caution advisable.
Kullamannens dörr (The door of the Kullen- man)
This crag contains some of the best and classical routes in the Kullen- area. The crag contains mainly trad routes but also mixed and bolted sports routes. Almost the whole crag is very suitable for top roping. In recent times, aid climbing has also been tried out here.
N56.301174, E12.449431 (WGS84)
Drive/walk to the last car park area at the end of the road. Next to the car park there is a small picnic- area not far from a large information sign. From here, there is a small, steep and narrow track that leads to the sea. Follow the track for circa 20 meter and then turn right on to another similar track leading further downwards. This track will take you to the top of Kullamannens dörr.
The whole peninsula of Kullaberg is a National Park and the Swedish Right of Public Access (which can be found in English here: http://www.klatterforbundet.se/skf_info.php?id=86&subsida=8) does NOT apply here. Camping is strictly prohibited. Fires and barbecue are only to be lit on designated places. Be aware of signs describing restrictions in relation to wildlife. Dogs are to be kept on a leash at all times. No bolting or use of pitons.
In addition, there are the following access agreements in between the Swedish Climbing Federation and the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency, quoted from their website:
“In the area on the north coast between Djupadal and Valdermarsgrottan even visiting is prohibited from the 1st of March to the 15th of July because of bird protection. The bird protected area reaches 200 meters inwards the land and 50 meters outwards the sea. During the same period visitors shall show extra cautiousness while visiting the area Toms överhang – Kullamannens dörr. Also here because of the bird protection.”
Klatring på Kullen (1999)
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|This crag should be deleted as it is a buttress of Kulleberg and the two climbs are already described there.|
Sir Stefan - 02/Dec/11