Climbs 123
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

Dave on his own 'Lexi Arete' at Hepburn. © Sean Bell

Crag features

A range of boulder problems though the grades, from easy circuits to classic testpieces, all on grippy rock with an excellent outlook. Often overlooked, a good alternative to Bowden and Kyloe.

Approach notes

Main Area - Follow the main track past the gate and after a few meters take a left up a steep path. Cross a stile at the top and the boulders are visible on your right.

Berthele's Stone - Follow main track for 10 mins and take the left fork at the bronze age grave then continue for around 50m. Just before the track begins to descend, turn left into a very easy to miss path through the young trees, the first few meters are boggy but the path soon improvesleading you up tothe boulder in about 5mins.

Took a walk along to Bertheles Rock today and like Steve said below there's a wind blown tree on Lexi Arete and quite a few more quite close in landing zones. It's also quite dirty at the minute! If only I'd read the comment below first I could have taken a saw :( One to clean up in the winter I think! It's not really worth the walk to at the minute unless you're planning on spending time cleaning first, just a heads up!
Peace89 - 24/Aug/15
Big wind blown tree now lying on Lexi arÍte. Will take a public spirited individual with a chainsaw to rectify.
Stevie989 - 27/Jan/15
Here is a google map of the approach to Hepburn Woods South where you might find a Gruffalo https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@55.5112895,-1.8830234,15z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!6m1!1sz8BuRKnhxM3M.kfsDmMYeYyOo
Beardyman - 24/Oct/14
https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msid=208818074682494943537.0004b5e6c513f7b48934f&msa=0&ll=55.510919,-1.882224&spn=0.003445,0.010568 This is a map how to get to Berthele's Stone
Beardyman - 11/Jun/13
Theives do operate in the area. Some cNut tried to jimmy the lock with a screwdriver while we were there on a busy saturday. make sure not to leave anything in the car!
sneaks - 01/Aug/11
As good as anywhere in the county for 6's and low 7's.
Andy Moles - 17/May/11
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Picnic Area 
2Matterhorn Arete
-
f6A **15
3Stunning Scoop
-
f4 *19
4Faint Scoop
-
f6A 7
5The Keel
-
f6A *11
6Keel Traverse
-
f6B  
7The Prowf6C **37
8The Wall
-
f6B 5
9The Crack
-
f7A+ 1
10Crack and Aretef6A 16
11Arete Only
-
f6C 17
12The Wall 2f6C 5
13Crack Problem
-
f5+  
14Photo Opportunity Arete
-
f5 *71
15Photo Opportunity Wall
-
f6B **25
16Orthopaedia
-
f7A+ 3
17BUTTf7C+ * 
18IFf7B **25
19Rheumatologyf7A *96
20Orthapaedic Arete
-
f6B  
21Trauma Arete
-
f6A 2
22Slab Two
-
f5 15
23Slab One
-
f4+ 28
24The Side Wall
-
f7C 4
25Arete
-
f6A 93
26Shallow Groove Variationf5+ 30
27Shallow Groove
-
f5+ 71
28The Traverse
-
f5+ 18
29The Wall (Warm Up Area)
-
f5 58
30Short Crack
-
f3 98
31Long Crack
-
f3 117
32Hardf6B 109
33The Flake
-
f3 89
34The Rounded Arete
-
f4 43
35The Ramped Arete
-
f4 72
36The Tricky Wall
-
f4+ 51
37Last Innings Standf3 3
38Fine Arete
-
f6B 122
39Popular Wall
-
f6C 40
40Popular Wall RHf5 18
41High Level Traverse
-
f6A 6
42Low Level Traverse
-
f6A 1
43North Face
-
f6A 3
44Another Arete
-
f6B+ 20
45Another Flake
-
f6C 49
46Another Flake SS
-
f7A 1
47Smooth Operation
-
f6A+ 6
48Sandy Arete
-
f5+ 5
49Treeline Traversef7A+  
50Lip Problem
-
f6C 18
51Arete Problem
-
f6A 37
52South Face
-
f5+ 14
53The Wanderer
-
f5  
54Roof Problem LH
-
f6B 39
55Absolute Power
-
f7B  
56Roof Problem RH
-
f6B 44
 Hepburn Wood 
58Dingly Dell
-
f4 7
59Nicely out of Tune
-
f4 9
60Life Long
-
f5+ 11
61Long Haul
-
f6A 8
62Flake Wall
-
f5+  
63Underside
-
f6A 5
64Undercut Arete
-
f6B 2
65Undercut Arete SS
-
f7A 1
66Undermine
-
f4+ 6
67Chossamossityf7A  
68PreperationH SS
-
f8A *** 
69PreparationHf7C+ ***7
70A Northern Soulf7A+ ***116
71The Governorf7C **1
72On the Small Side
-
f4+ 23
73Substantial
-
f5 19
74The Smallest
-
f5 14
75Trivial Pursuitf7B+ **2
76Trivial Pursuit Deluxef8A+ * 
77North Shoref7C+ ** 
78Quarter Sawnf7B+ *1
79Titanic Crackf5 18
80Titanic Flutesf5+ **14
81Titanic Aretef7A ***58
82Titanic Arete SSf7A+ *12
83Icebergf7B ***15
84Ice Cubef5 **3
 Main crag 
86Long LostE5 5c ** 
87Mis-spentE4 6a ** 
88Jesus Christ PoseE6 6a *** 
 Berthele's Stone 
90Potty Training (LH finish)f6B 8
91Potty Training Directf6C **1
92Potty Trainingf6B+ **9
93Commandof7A ***7
94Daze of the Weakf7C ***7
95Lexi Aretef6B+ **7
96Big Girl Daddy Pantsf6A *4
97Fanny Spanked LHf6A 3
98Fanny Spanked RHf6A+ *3
99Squeeze One Outf6B **3
100Harpsichordf6C+ **2
 Green Wing 
102Warm Up Traverse
-
f6B  
103Harder Traverse
-
f6C  
104Stepping Out
-
f6A  
105Jumble Sale
-
f6C  
106Walk in the Jumble
-
f6C  
107Sadie's Traverse
-
f7A  
108Thin Crack Start
-
f7A  
109Corner Problem
-
f7A  
110Obvious Arete
-
f5 1
111Nameless Arete
-
f4  
112Hidden Classic
-
f7A  
 The Plateau 
114Hanging Corner
-
f5+  
115Blunt Arete One
-
f6C  
116Blunt Arete Two
-
f6C 1
117Trough Traverse
-
f6C 1
118Cleft Traverse
-
f5+ 1
119Left Block Traverse
-
f6A 1
120Middle Block Traverse
-
f6A 1
121Trainer Traverse
-
f4 1
122LH Problem
-
f5  
123Centre Problem
-
f5+  
124The Bulge
-
f6A  
125The Crack (Last Block)
-
f6A  
126Last Traverse
-
f6B  
 HEPBURN WOODS SOUTH 
128The Gruffalof7C+ ***2
129Bens Prowf6C ** 
130Jimmy Nae Palsf6B+ *1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer punkpunk