Climbs 5
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 103m a.s.l
Faces SW

My pal and I after a couple of good climbs. © Skorchio

Crag features

A 10 metre high pinnacle left by quarrymen in memory of the legendary prowess of Nick O'Demus. The SW face is generally sound and it can be climbed at about Mod. up its South Ridge. The chert in the top break can be crumbly and should be treated with care until the routes have had more traffic.

Approach notes

Follow the road to the top of the hill on Portland. Nicodemus Knob is best accessed by taking the left turn at the roundabout and follow the road past the side of The Heights hotel and the view point car parks, until a right turn, just before it goes down hill leads to The Verne prison. Go past this and follow the track to a rusty gate, park here. Follow the fence eastwards until the pinnacle comes into view and an obvious footpath leads down towards it (5 mins).

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The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
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Out of print:
Great crag of rock this here, Loads of space to park and not too far away to walk. Nice open almost exposed feel to the climbs, very nice collection and easy enough to climb up round the side to get a top rope in,but when top roping I advise using a rope protector. I agree with some of the other comments, in places it does need a bit of a dust off, I may do some time.
underitall - 26/Mar/15
Tough but very enjoyable. Easy to get round the side to put a rope up. Fancys Farm next door for cheap refreshments etc.
Paul Hicks - 27/May/14
These climbs are not getting much traffic so it would be well worth scrambling to the top, clipping the loweroffs and abseiling down to give them a dust off and a check for any lose stuff in the top break first. It is a better summer crag as it catches the breeze when elsewhere is too hot, very exposed to the wind in winter.
johnl - 24/Jul/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Wild Rover6a *104
2Nick O'Demus6a *84
3Big Wall Dreams6a+ *61
4Nick's Bulge6b *54

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