The Chasms

Climbs 54 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Large chunks of cliff descending towards the sea, leaving huge chasms to swallow the unwary.

Park at the end of the single track road that goes through Cregneash village. Follow the path alongside the wall, ignoring any paths heading off the the old cafe, to the bottom corner where there is a stile. Cross this, head towards the sea for a few metres, then cross back over the stone wall using the obvious gap. A thin path leads down to the hut circle on top of Hut Circle Buttress.

Descending the gully past a steep wall with obvious crack (Torque Test Wall) leads to Tower Slabs and round to Tower Buttress. Many of the old routes further round from here have been affected by rock fall. Following the top edge of the cliffs forms the Western section, with the square overhanging nose split by a central fist crack being Gulgond. The tall cliffs on the way to the Sugarloaf stack are Xanadu Wall.

The only published information is www.mike-caine.com/climbing/chasms.html which is now very out-of-date (plus the site is often down so use google cache if necessary). Many extreme routes have been put up by Doug Hall which are not recorded.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 PROW BUTTRESS 
2DynamiteE4 6a
3The ProwE5 6b
4Elephants EarE6 6b
5Stainless SteelE5 6b
6GulgondVS 4b **
7TwillS 4a **
8TombstoneE1 5b
9Army RouteVD
 SECTOR BOULDERING 
11Uber die PumperMVS 5a
 TORQUE TEST WALL 
13Torque Test AreteE1 5a **
14Grip City DudeE2 5c
15Torque TestHVS 5a ***
16KremmenE3 5c
17Route 2E2 5b
18The RampE1 5a
 HUT CIRCLE BUTTRESS 
20LeftoversE2 5a
21Guardian SoulE2 5b
22StroudE1 5b
23LevitationE6 6c
24New AgeE4 6a
25TavolaraE3 6a
26Mandatory ScuttleE3 6a
27The RoofE5 6a
 TRAINING WALL 
29EurotrashE5 6a *
 TOOTH BUTRESS 
31The Gift of a Chocolate DisasterVS
32SabreE5 6b
33The IncisorE6 6b ***
34MolarE5 6b
 TOWER SLABS 
36Jim's AreteVS 4b **
37Torque yourself out of itHS 4b *
38Chimney CrackVD
39Morecambe and WiseS 4a *
 TOWER BUTTRESS 
41Tower Buttress CrackHVS 5a *
42Tower ButtressVD *
 PILLAR BUTTRESS 
44SaltE7 6b
45TenayaE8 6c
46Flickering ImagesE6 6a
 BLADE BUTTRESS 
48The Subtle KnifeE7 6c
 CHASM WALL 
50Out Of The DarkE6 6b
51Into The LightE8 6c
52Chasm ArêteE5 6b
53Brush Tucker ManE4 6a
 PRIMEVAL WALL 
55OmenE6 6b
56DrivenE5 6b
57MantaE7 6c
58PredatorE6 6c
59HoroscpeE4 6a
60Together SystemE5 6b
61MansardE6 6b
62FlawlessE7 6c
63Hang DogE4 6a
64FiniteE3 5c
 XANADU WALL 
66MylreaVS 4b ***
67XanaduHVS *
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