The Chasms

Climbs 55 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Large chunks of cliff descending towards the sea, leaving huge chasms to swallow the unwary.

Park at the end of the single track road that goes through Cregneash village. Follow the path alongside the wall, ignoring any paths heading off the the old cafe, to the bottom corner where there is a stile. Cross this, head towards the sea for a few metres, then cross back over the stone wall using the obvious gap. A thin path leads down to the hut circle on top of Hut Circle Buttress.

Descending the gully past a steep wall with obvious crack (Torque Test Wall) leads to Tower Slabs and round to Tower Buttress. Many of the old routes further round from here have been affected by rock fall. Following the top edge of the cliffs forms the Western section, with the square overhanging nose split by a central fist crack being Gulgond. The tall cliffs on the way to the Sugarloaf stack are Xanadu Wall.

The only published information is which is now very out-of-date (plus the site is often down so use google cache if necessary). Many extreme routes have been put up by Doug Hall which are not recorded.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2DynamiteE4 6a 2
3The ProwE5 6b  
4Elephants EarE6 6b  
5Stainless SteelE5 6b  
6GulgondVS 4b **3
7TwillS 4a **9
8TombstoneE1 5b 4
9Army RouteVD 8
11Uber die PumperMVS 5a 3
13Torque Test AreteE1 5a **14
14Grip City DudeE2 5c 4
15Torque TestHVS 5a ***24
16KremmenE3 5c 3
17Route 2E2 5b 1
18The RampE1 5a 5
20LeftoversE2 5a  
21Guardian SoulE2 5b  
22StroudE1 5b 7
23LevitationE6 6c 2
24New AgeE4 6a 2
25TavolaraE3 6a 2
26Mandatory ScuttleE3 6a 1
27The RoofE5 6a 1
29EurotrashE5 6a *2
31The Gift of a Chocolate DisasterVS 3
32SabreE5 6b  
33The IncisorE6 6b ***2
34MolarE5 6b  
36Jim's AreteVS 4b **6
37Torque yourself out of itHS 4b *5
38Chimney CrackVD 9
39Morecambe and WiseS 4a *6
41Tower Buttress CrackHVS 5a *11
42Tower ButtressVD *8
44SaltE7 6b 1
45TenayaE8 6c 1
46Flickering ImagesE6 6a 1
48The Subtle KnifeE7 6c 1
50Out Of The DarkE6 6b  
51Into The LightE8 6c  
52Chasm ArêteE5 6b 1
53Brush Tucker ManE4 6a 1
55OmenE6 6b  
56DrivenE5 6b  
57MantaE7 6c  
58PredatorE6 6c  
59HoroscpeE4 6a  
60Together SystemE5 6b  
61MansardE6 6b 1
62FlawlessE7 6c  
63Hang DogE4 6a  
64FiniteE3 5c  
66MylreaVS 4b ***3
67XanaduHVS * 
68Waiting On Doug *E2 5c ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Nik Jennings

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