The Chasms

Climbs 54 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Large chunks of cliff descending towards the sea, leaving huge chasms to swallow the unwary.

Park at the end of the single track road that goes through Cregneash village. Follow the path alongside the wall, ignoring any paths heading off the the old cafe, to the bottom corner where there is a stile. Cross this, head towards the sea for a few metres, then cross back over the stone wall using the obvious gap. A thin path leads down to the hut circle on top of Hut Circle Buttress.

Descending the gully past a steep wall with obvious crack (Torque Test Wall) leads to Tower Slabs and round to Tower Buttress. Many of the old routes further round from here have been affected by rock fall. Following the top edge of the cliffs forms the Western section, with the square overhanging nose split by a central fist crack being Gulgond. The tall cliffs on the way to the Sugarloaf stack are Xanadu Wall.

The only published information is www.mike-caine.com/climbing/chasms.html which is now very out-of-date (plus the site is often down so use google cache if necessary). Many extreme routes have been put up by Doug Hall which are not recorded.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 PROW BUTTRESS  
2DynamiteE4 6a 2
3The ProwE5 6b  
4Elephants EarE6 6b  
5Stainless SteelE5 6b  
6GulgondVS 4b **3
7TwillS 4a **9
8TombstoneE1 5b 4
9Army RouteVD 8
 SECTOR BOULDERING  
11Uber die PumperMVS 5a 3
 TORQUE TEST WALL  
13Torque Test AreteE1 5a **14
14Grip City DudeE2 5c 4
15Torque TestHVS 5a ***24
16KremmenE3 5c 3
17Route 2E2 5b 1
18The RampE1 5a 5
 HUT CIRCLE BUTTRESS  
20LeftoversE2 5a  
21Guardian SoulE2 5b  
22StroudE1 5b 7
23LevitationE6 6c 2
24New AgeE4 6a 1
25TavolaraE3 6a 2
26Mandatory ScuttleE3 6a 1
27The RoofE5 6a 1
 TRAINING WALL  
29EurotrashE5 6a *2
 TOOTH BUTRESS  
31The Gift of a Chocolate DisasterVS 3
32SabreE5 6b  
33The IncisorE6 6b ***2
34MolarE5 6b  
 TOWER SLABS  
36Jim's AreteVS 4b **6
37Torque yourself out of itHS 4b *5
38Chimney CrackVD 9
39Morecambe and WiseS 4a *6
 TOWER BUTTRESS  
41Tower Buttress CrackHVS 5a *11
42Tower ButtressVD *8
 PILLAR BUTTRESS  
44SaltE7 6b 1
45TenayaE8 6c 1
46Flickering ImagesE6 6a 1
 BLADE BUTTRESS  
48The Subtle KnifeE7 6c 1
 CHASM WALL  
50Out Of The DarkE6 6b  
51Into The LightE8 6c  
52Chasm ArêteE5 6b 1
53Brush Tucker ManE4 6a 1
 PRIMEVAL WALL  
55OmenE6 6b  
56DrivenE5 6b  
57MantaE7 6c  
58PredatorE6 6c  
59HoroscpeE4 6a  
60Together SystemE5 6b  
61MansardE6 6b 1
62FlawlessE7 6c  
63Hang DogE4 6a  
64FiniteE3 5c  
 XANADU WALL  
66MylreaVS 4b ***3
67XanaduHVS * 
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