The Chasms

Climbs 59 – Rocktype Quartzite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Large chunks of cliff descending towards the sea, leaving huge chasms to swallow the unwary.

Park at the end of the single track road that goes through Cregneash village. Follow the path alongside the wall, ignoring any paths heading off the the old cafe, to the bottom corner where there is a stile. Cross this, head towards the sea for a few metres, then cross back over the stone wall using the obvious gap. A thin path leads down to the hut circle on top of Hut Circle Buttress.

Descending the gully past a steep wall with obvious crack (Torque Test Wall) leads to Tower Slabs and round to Tower Buttress. Many of the old routes further round from here have been affected by rock fall. Following the top edge of the cliffs forms the Western section, with the square overhanging nose split by a central fist crack being Gulgond. The tall cliffs on the way to the Sugarloaf stack are Xanadu Wall.

The only published information is which is now very out-of-date (plus the site is often down so use google cache if necessary). Many extreme routes have been put up by Doug Hall which are not recorded.

Approach notes
Bird ban. Usually runs from 15th March until the end of June for most of the area. However the Sugarloaf and surrounding areas are banned until the end of July. Occasionally the restriction is extended due to late nesting. In these cases it will be indicated by signs on the crag approach.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2DynamiteE4 6a 2
3The ProwE5 6b  
4Elephants EarE6 6b  
5Stainless SteelE5 6b  
6GulgondVS 4b **3
7TwillS 4a **9
8TombstoneE1 5b 4
9Waiting On DougE2 5c ** 
10Army RouteVD 8
12Uber die PumperMVS 5a 3
14Torque Test AreteE1 5a **14
15Grip City DudeE2 5c 4
16Torque TestHVS 5a ***24
17KremmenE3 5c 3
18Route 2E2 5b 1
19The RampE1 5a 5
21LeftoversE2 5a  
22Guardian SoulE2 5b  
23StroudE1 5b 7
24LevitationE6 6c 2
25New AgeE4 6a 2
26TavolaraE3 6a 2
27Mandatory ScuttleE3 6a 1
28The RoofE5 6a 1
30Training traverse7b+  
31EurotrashE5 6a *2
33The Gift of a Chocolate DisasterVS 3
34SabreE5 6b  
35The IncisorE6 6b ***2
36MolarE5 6b  
38Jim's AreteVS 4b **6
39Torque yourself out of itHS 4b *5
40Chimney CrackVD 9
41Morecambe and WiseS 4a *6
43Tower Buttress CrackHVS 5a *11
44Tower ButtressVD *8
46SaltE7 6b 1
47TenayaE8 6c 1
48Flickering ImagesE6 6a 1
50SupermoonE7 6b  
51Blood Red MoonE6 6b  
52EclipseE7 6c  
54The Subtle KnifeE7 6c 1
56Out Of The DarkE6 6b  
57Into The LightE8 6c  
58Chasm ArÍteE5 6b 1
59Brush Tucker ManE4 6a 1
61OmenE6 6b  
62DrivenE5 6b  
63MantaE7 6c  
64PredatorE6 6c  
65HoroscpeE4 6a  
66Together SystemE5 6b  
67MansardE6 6b 1
68FlawlessE7 6c  
69Hang DogE4 6a  
70FiniteE3 5c  
72MylreaVS 4b ***3
73XanaduHVS * 
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