Carmear Rock

Climbs 28 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
An interesting area set amongst impressive dense woodland. The rock although dirty is of the very coarse crystalline variety (Luxulyanite donít you know), the climbing is good and has its own charm. Could this be a Cornish version of Devonís mighty Dewerstone, only smaller and no one ever visits so the woods have taken a hold of it. Ready for future explorers to re-discover or the wood will surely take over.

Access notes
There are three ways to approach: -

First park as for Luxulyan Quarry (059568), donít blocking the lay-by as it regularly in use. Follow the track towards the railway line then bare right-wards past the quarry and under a tunnel. At the cross road turn left up the hill for a little way then turn right and follow the track. The track eventually leads over a bridge with a very steep incline below the rocks will be seen up and to the left.

Second. Park at Ponts Mill over a little bridge (074562), follow the main track up towards the big viaduct. Just before it is another track on the right. Follow this up to a bridge, bush wack for a short distance up on to another track then follow the track west for a short distance. The crag should be seen up on the left.

Third. The ultimate way to get lost park as above, follow the track towards the viaduct, turn left, and then turn left again. Follow the footpath up the hill passing a leat; then a large pipe, continue up zig zaging away till you past a bluff of square cut granite with a tree growing out the top of it. A faint excuse for a path leads down on to the top of the outcrops.

Guidebooks
Luxulyan Valley Bouldering and New Routes 2014 (2014), Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012), rustypeg.co.uk,
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 LEAT SIDE BUTTERESS 
2Best Served ColdV0+
3Re-VengeVD
4Pre-VengeVB
5The Kessel RunHVS 4c
6SarlaccVD
7ShadowplayVB
8PelbVD
9Knee Bar AreteV4
 SHEELA BUTTERESS 
11LuxulyaniteV2
12Loverly finger jamming nicenessVS 5a
13Sheela-Na-GigVS 4c
14Aces HighE3 5c **
 THE PINNICALES 
16AretionVS 4b
17HullabalooHVS 4c
18Dripping and Strangely BrownE1 5b
 MAIN CLIFF 
20War without a FaceHS 4c
21Heart Attack in Isle SixV1
22TitchVS 4b
23The AreteV0
24Eliminate WallV2
25Game OnE2 5c
26The Off-widthS
27Denial isn't a River in EgyptE1 5a
 HIDDEN RIGHT 
29Missing the PointE1 6a/b
30Gladiators Ready!HS 4b
 RANDOM STUFF BELOW THE TRACK STUFF 
32TIE FighterHS 4c *
33Flesh GordonHS 4c
34A Rainy Mile, Thinking of YouE3 6a *
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These details were last updated on 18/Dec/2008
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