An interesting area set amongst impressive dense woodland. The rock although dirty is of the very coarse crystalline variety (Luxulyanite donít you know), the climbing is good and has its own charm. Could this be a Cornish version of Devonís mighty Dewerstone, only smaller and no one ever visits so the woods have taken a hold of it. Ready for future explorers to re-discover or the wood will surely take over.
There are three ways to approach: -
First park as for Luxulyan Quarry (059568), donít blocking the lay-by as it regularly in use. Follow the track towards the railway line then bare right-wards past the quarry and under a tunnel. At the cross road turn left up the hill for a little way then turn right and follow the track. The track eventually leads over a bridge with a very steep incline below the rocks will be seen up and to the left.
Second. Park at Ponts Mill over a little bridge (074562), follow the main track up towards the big viaduct. Just before it is another track on the right. Follow this up to a bridge, bush wack for a short distance up on to another track then follow the track west for a short distance. The crag should be seen up on the left.
Third. The ultimate way to get lost park as above, follow the track towards the viaduct, turn left, and then turn left again. Follow the footpath up the hill passing a leat; then a large pipe, continue up zig zaging away till you past a bluff of square cut granite with a tree growing out the top of it. A faint excuse for a path leads down on to the top of the outcrops.
Luxulyan Valley Bouldering and New Routes (2014), Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012), rustypeg.co.uk,
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998)
|LEAT SIDE BUTTERESS|
|2||Best Served Cold||V0+||1|
|5||The Kessel Run||HVS 4c||3|
|9||Knee Bar Arete||V4||2|
|12||Loverly finger jamming niceness||VS 5a||1|
|14||Aces High||E3 5c **||1|
|18||Dripping and Strangely Brown||E1 5b||1|
|20||War without a Face||HS 4c||1|
|21||Heart Attack in Isle Six||V1||1|
|25||Game On||E2 5c||1|
|27||Denial isn't a River in Egypt||E1 5a|
|29||Missing the Point||E1 6a/b||1|
|30||Gladiators Ready!||HS 4b||1|
|RANDOM STUFF BELOW THE TRACK STUFF|
|32||TIE Fighter||HS 4c *||1|
|33||Flesh Gordon||HS 4c||1|
|34||A Rainy Mile, Thinking of You||E3 6a *||2|
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