A series of short climbs on a ESE facing outcrop, routes rarely exceed 7-8m and the buttresses are broken enough to provide easy descent routes. Many of the problems are short enough to consider as boulder problems or solos making it an ideal spot for a mid walk climbing session.
The lines in the quarry listed below are taken as finishing at the large break at 2/3 height. Above this the rock becomes much poorer and less stable on many of the lines. - Helmets should be considered for these routes especially. It is feasible to traverse off along this break to exit.
The landing for boulder problems varies greatly and some routes may be worth having a pad for, whilst others have a soft grassy landing.
Routes marked (P) and graded XS are potential lines from initial exploration. If you climb them please submit a grade, name and description etc.
Take care whilst at the crag there are several loose lengths of wire down the cliff, they are just lying round, so take care.
Buttress location map (Googlemap)
Parking is best in the layby at the top of monks road. To reach the crag follow the sunken path across the plateau into the quarry at the centre of the edge. Alternatively follow the road south until it is possible to head right over a stile and up a short steep path, taking the left hand stile near the top leads to the base of the northernmost buttress, whilst taking the second stile on the right provides access to the prow.
|COWN EDGE QUARRY|
|2||Shrine route 1 (P)||XS||2|
|3||Shrine Route 2 (P) †||XS||1|
|4||Shrine Route 3 (P) †||XS||1|
|5||Shrine Route 4 (P) †||XS||1|
|6||Off Width Anarchy Crack||S 4a||3|
|7||Anarchy Arete Direct (P) †||E3 5c/6a|
|8||Anarchy arete indirect||V1||3|
|9||W for W*nker (P) †||XS||2|
|10||R corner crackline (P) †||XS||2|
|11||The Devils groove (P) †||XS||1|
|12||The devil is here (P) †||XS||1|
|BULGING POCKET AND FLAT WALL AREA|
|14||Bulging pocket Arete||none 4a||5|
|15||Bulging wall||none 4b||5|
|16||Bulging Wall corner||none 3c||5|
|17||Flat wall arete||none 5a||4|
|18||Block of Cheese||HS 4c||7|
|20||Loaf of Bread||HS 4c||8|
|21||Side Salad||HS 4c||4|
|22||This way, no, that way||V1||6|
|23||Don't snap on me||V1||6|
|25||Don't Fall Adam, I'm Eating.||V0||6|
|27||Cracked roof cave (P)||XS||3|
|DEAD BIRD BUTTRESS|
|31||Zig zag crack Direct||S 4a *||6|
|32||Zig zag crack||S||9|
|33||Dead bird wall||S 4b *||9|
|34||Cramming Jack||HS 4c **||7|
|IP LAMBS BUTTRESS|
|37||Left Arete||VS 4c||6|
|38||Nine||VS 5a *||7|
|39||Central route||VS 4c||7|
|40||Right face (P)||VS 5b||5|
|41||Right Arete||HS 4c *||8|
|48||Wednesday Night Traverse||V1||2|
|49||Wed Derd Ball||M||3|
|53||Left End Slab||V1||1|
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