Cown Edge Rocks

Climbs 55 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
A series of short climbs on a ESE facing outcrop, routes rarely exceed 7-8m and the buttresses are broken enough to provide easy descent routes. Many of the problems are short enough to consider as boulder problems or solos making it an ideal spot for a mid walk climbing session.

The lines in the quarry listed below are taken as finishing at the large break at 2/3 height. Above this the rock becomes much poorer and less stable on many of the lines. - Helmets should be considered for these routes especially. It is feasible to traverse off along this break to exit.

The landing for boulder problems varies greatly and some routes may be worth having a pad for, whilst others have a soft grassy landing.

Routes marked (P) and graded XS are potential lines from initial exploration. If you climb them please submit a grade, name and description etc.

Take care whilst at the crag there are several loose lengths of wire down the cliff, they are just lying round, so take care.

Buttress location map (Googlemap)

Access notes
Parking is best in the layby at the top of monks road. To reach the crag follow the sunken path across the plateau into the quarry at the centre of the edge. Alternatively follow the road south until it is possible to head right over a stile and up a short steep path, taking the left hand stile near the top leads to the base of the northernmost buttress, whilst taking the second stile on the right provides access to the prow.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Shrine route 1 (P)XS 2
3Shrine Route 2 (P) XS 1
4Shrine Route 3 (P) XS 1
5Shrine Route 4 (P) XS 1
6Off Width Anarchy CrackS 4a 4
7Anarchy Arete Direct (P) E3 5c/6a  
8Anarchy arete indirectV1 3
9W for W*nker (P) XS 2
10R corner crackline (P) XS 2
11The Devils groove (P) XS 1
12The devil is here (P) XS 1
14Bulging pocket Aretenone 4a 5
15Bulging wallnone 4b 5
16Bulging Wall cornernone 3c 5
17Flat wall aretenone 5a 4
18Block of CheeseHS 4c 7
19ButterHS 4c 4
20Loaf of BreadHS 4c 8
21Side SaladHS 4c 4
22This way, no, that wayV1 6
23Don't snap on meV1 6
24Tasty Top-OutV1 6
25Don't Fall Adam, I'm Eating.V0 6
27Cracked roof cave (P)XS 3
29Slipped blockM 7
30Corner CrackM 7
31Zig zag crack DirectS 4a *6
32Zig zag crackS 9
33Dead bird wallS 4b *9
34Cramming JackHS 4c **7
36Left GrooveM 7
37Left AreteVS 4c 6
38NineVS 5a *7
39Central routeVS 4c 7
40Right face (P)VS 5b 5
41Right AreteHS 4c *8
42Green chimneyVD 7
43Green AreteS 7
44ProwV0 5b 1
45DodoD 3
46RhinosaurusM 2
47HippopotamusD 2
48Wednesday Night TraverseV1 2
49Wed Derd BallM 3
50WalrusVD 2
51OctopusVD 2
5210% DiscountVD 3
53Left End SlabV1 1
54Painted Devil *V7  
55Rebel's Stretch *V6  
56Rebel without a foothold *V6  
57New balls please *V2  
58Reality painting *V1  
59Insurgents arete *V6  
60Big Bobby's Big Bounce *V5  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer JamieSparkes

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