Cown Edge Rocks

Climbs 48 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 400m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
A series of short climbs on a ESE facing outcrop, routes rarely exceed 7-8m and the buttresses are broken enough to provide easy descent routes. Many of the problems are short enough to consider as boulder problems or solos making it an ideal spot for a mid walk climbing session.

The lines in the quarry listed below are taken as finishing at the large break at 2/3 height. Above this the rock becomes much poorer and less stable on many of the lines. - Helmets should be considered for these routes especially. It is feasible to traverse off along this break to exit.

The landing for boulder problems varies greatly and some routes may be worth having a pad for, whilst others have a soft grassy landing.

Routes marked (P) and graded XS are potential lines from initial exploration. If you climb them please submit a grade, name and description etc.

Take care whilst at the crag there are several loose lengths of wire down the cliff, they are just lying round, so take care.

Buttress location map (Googlemap)

http://tinyurl.com/da2vsq

Access notes
Parking is best in the layby at the top of monks road. To reach the crag follow the sunken path across the plateau into the quarry at the centre of the edge. Alternatively follow the road south until it is possible to head right over a stile and up a short steep path, taking the left hand stile near the top leads to the base of the northernmost buttress, whilst taking the second stile on the right provides access to the prow.

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 COWN EDGE QUARRY 
2Shrine route 1 (P)XS
3Shrine Route 2 (P) XS
4Shrine Route 3 (P) XS
5Shrine Route 4 (P) XS
6Off Width Anarchy CrackS 4a
7Anarchy Arete Direct (P) E3 5c/6a
8Anarchy arete indirectV1
9W for W*nker (P) XS
10R corner crackline (P) XS
11The Devils groove (P) XS
12The devil is here (P) XS
 BULGING POCKET AND FLAT WALL AREA 
14Bulging pocket Aretenone 4a
15Bulging wallnone 4b
16Bulging Wall cornernone 3c
17Flat wall aretenone 5a
18Block of CheeseHS 4c
19ButterHS 4c
20Loaf of BreadHS 4c
21Side SaladHS 4c
22This way, no, that wayV1
23Don't snap on meV1
24Tasty Top-OutV1
25Don't Fall Adam, I'm Eating.V0
 ROOF BUTRESS 
27Cracked roof cave (P)XS
 DEAD BIRD BUTTRESS 
29Slipped blockM
30Corner CrackM
31Zig zag crack DirectS 4a *
32Zig zag crackS
33Dead bird wallS 4b *
34Cramming JackHS 4c **
 IP LAMBS BUTTRESS 
36Left GrooveM
37Left AreteVS 4c
38NineVS 5a *
39Central routeVS 4c
40Right face (P)VS 5b
41Right AreteHS 4c *
42Green chimneyVD
43Green AreteS
44ProwV0 5b
45DodoD
46RhinosaurusM
47HippopotamusD
48Wednesday Night TraverseV1
49Wed Derd BallM
50WalrusVD
51OctopusVD
5210% DiscountVD
53Left End SlabV1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer JamieSparkes

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These details were last updated on 27/Mar/2009
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