North Africa's highest mountain, located within Toubkal National Park.
There are a number of routes currently recorded, but scope for many more, and several may have been climbed, but not documented.
Most common ascents are via the South Cwm-South Col, but the North Cwm provides a superior alternative, but the West South West (Ouanoums) Ridge is best, but slightly more technical.
Nearby climbs such as Chockstone Gully on Afella here (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=18998).
Travel from Marrakech to the village of Imlil (1740m) via taxi or hire car (1.5 hour drive). The bus stops in Asni, from where taxis drive to Imlil.
From Imlil, take the path north out of town, past the village of Aroumd (30 minutes walk), cross the river floodplain and continue up the valley on the left hand side to the shrine of Sidi Chamharouch (2-3 hours).
From here cross back over the river via a small footbridge and continue on the right hand side of the valley to the Toubkal refuges: Neltner (Club Alpin Français) or Mouflons (private) at 3207m (5-7 hours total).
Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas (2011), Toubkal Guía de ascensiones y escaladas (2008),
Out of print: Guide alpin de la Montagne Marocaine. Le Massif du Toubkal
|2||South Cwm South Col (winter)||F||74|
|3||North Cwm North Col (winter)||F+||24|
|4||North East Ridge (summer)||PD||1|
|5||North East Ridge (winter)||AD||1|
|6||North West Ridge||D||1|
|7||South West (Ouanoums) Ridge (summer)||AD||3|
|8||South West (Ouanoums) Ridge (winter)||AD+||10|
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|Do-able in a day, but hard work.
Arrived at Imlil at approx 6am, jogged to first Village; fast walked to Refuge. took on fluids and more diamox, reched summit at 12.00, then returned back to imlil-marrakech same day. Hard work....|
John Procter - 12/Oct/12