Altitude 386m a.s.l
Probably the least-interesting cliffs described here, being rather scruffy and featuring some polished rock and an excess of chipped holds. Despite this, the cliff is accessible, well bolted, in a sunny situation and has a decent spread of grades, so is good for a short session. It is popular with local school groups and can get very busy, check the number of vehicles in the car park on the way past.
The cliffs face south though the trees do offer some shade from the sun, the crags are well sheltered from cold northerly winds. The amount of hillside above the cliffs means that they seep after wet weather and are slow to dry - the other crags in the area are a better bet if it has been wet in the past few days.
From the last roundabout in Draguignan (by the hospital) follow the D955 into the Gorges du Châteaudouble for 4.7km. Shortly after the gorge narrows and the road becomes twisty there is a wide track on the right, just round a right-hand bend - park here. ** In February 2016 the road at this point was permanently closed to all traffic and pedestrians. Good news for climbers as identifying the parking place is now easy and space is plentiful! (Claudia, Feb 2016)** For the Roadside Sectors follow a path just above the road (orange spots, up a short rocky step) to reach the cliffs in about five minutes.
For the Gros Roucas Sector continue up the rough track. 200m beyond the water tanks and 90m after some postboxes a path branches left by a boulder with cairn. Follow this then fork left up a steep indistinct track to the base of the cliff - about 10 mins from the parking by the main road.
Rog Wilko - 22/Oct/11
|A handy little crag, reached from the road in 5 min. BUT - seems like it's Sandbag Central! Keeps the shade till about 2 pm. At present (Oct 2011) the road through Chateaudouble Gorge is closed, but you can still drive up as far as the car park for this crag. Road block about 50 m beyond.|
Rog Wilko - 16/Oct/11