Climbs 50
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 386m a.s.l
Faces W

Crag features

Probably the least-interesting cliffs described here, being rather scruffy and featuring some polished rock and an excess of chipped holds. Despite this, the cliff is accessible, well bolted, in a sunny situation and has a decent spread of grades, so is good for a short session. It is popular with local school groups and can get very busy, check the number of vehicles in the car park on the way past.

The cliffs face south though the trees do offer some shade from the sun, the crags are well sheltered from cold northerly winds. The amount of hillside above the cliffs means that they seep after wet weather and are slow to dry - the other crags in the area are a better bet if it has been wet in the past few days.

Approach notes

From the last roundabout in Draguignan (by the hospital) follow the D955 into the Gorges du Châteaudouble for 4.7km. Shortly after the gorge narrows and the road becomes twisty there is a wide track on the right, just round a right-hand bend - park here. For the Roadside Sectors follow a path just above the road (orange spots, up a short rocky step) to reach the cliffs in about five minutes.

For the Gros Roucas Sector continue up the rough track. 200m beyond the water tanks and 90m after some postboxes a path branches left by a boulder with cairn. Follow this then fork left up a steep indistinct track to the base of the cliff - about 10 mins from the parking by the main road.

Guidebooks

France : Côte d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
Sandbag central!
Rog Wilko - 22/Oct/11
A handy little crag, reached from the road in 5 min. BUT - seems like it's Sandbag Central! Keeps the shade till about 2 pm. At present (Oct 2011) the road through Chateaudouble Gorge is closed, but you can still drive up as far as the car park for this crag. Road block about 50 m beyond.
Rog Wilko - 16/Oct/11
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